And so the addiction begins!!!
Couple things, look in your gas tank with a good flashlight for rust. Rust never sleeps, but it will make your car do so (usually at the worst possible moment!). Also, unless someone put later (balloon) tires on your car, the 30x3 1/2's run a *minimum* of 50 PSI, and the spec is actually 70 PSI - this is so the tire "locks" into the clincher rims, and you don't tear off your valve stem. I'm sure you know about oil (a gallon, until it runs out the top petcock, tho perfect is halfway down - how one sees through the pan without one of those aftermarket gauges has always stumped me, tho!!) and when you check your oil, "sniff" a drop between your fingers to make sure you're not gas-contaminated.
Starting - Ignition off, put a block under a wheel and pull the brake up TIGHT. Spark lever up, gas down a couple notches. Pull out the choke (gas on, of course), thumb and fingers UNDER the crank, start (engage) at "9:00" and pull it swiftly to "3:00". Do this 3 or 4 times. Switch on, and repeat "crank" maneuver you may have to hold out the choke until it barks. There's an art to doing this, but once you get it, it will be a piece of cake, and you'l hardly break a sweat! Once it coughs to life, kick the spark lever down and adjust your throttle to an idle. Until you *know* you car do NOT be tempted to "spin" your motor (pushing against compression from 3:00 to 9:00) - this is how most people with T's end up with a nice plaster momento of their car on their right arm!
Talk to the old timer about your spark advance - on a T it means the difference between boiling hard and purring sweetly. And don't worry about asking questions - that's why we're here!!!
Welcome to the insanity!!
Sus