Newbe From New Zealand

Fairlane500 said:
Picked up a cast steel intake and a unknown flywheel today for the project, are the 9" and 10" clutches the same mounting bolt pattern???? I would like to run a 10" Clutch???

I drug the block out today from under the bench and it is actually a C69A block not a C59A as I thought, which I think is better??? More cylinder wall meat is this correct???
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Fairlane 500, the pump in the pic looks like a regular M-19, not a HV pump, if so it's the one to use. The differance is the gears in HV pump are longer than the std M-19 The clutch bolt patten is differant in the 9 and 10in. pressure plate. I would use the 9in. in a 36 car, It's lighter than the 10-11 set up. You don't need a big clutch in a light car. I like the stock crab dist but if you want the post one have Bubba or someone set a Chevy one, I haven't heard anything bad about Per Tronex. spelling You can have 10-11 in. flywheel redrilled for a 9in. Have it balanced after and then bolt the pressure to it and balance it again, mark it so you bolt the pressure plate back on in the same place, pressure plates are always out of balance. Walt
 
Thanks Walt, thats great information, I appreciate that. I am awaiting a distributor from Bubba for it so hopefully its not to far away. We did exactly as you said with the balancing of the PP and FW and marked the mounting relationship accordingly after balancing the entire rotating assembly. John
 
Clutch is a 1946-48 Style I think, which was what the flywheel was from so I was told so I figured I would try to keep it compatible. At 276 cube I dont know what the HP increase would be over the standard 100HP 48 engine so I figured 10" would be o.k.
 

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Fairlane500 said:
Not sure if the intro thing is as common here as the Hamb but anyway, My name is John and I'm a Ford-o-holic, I have a 36 Ford and a 57 Ford with Flathead and Y block power plants, I use the same handle on the Hamb and came to the Ford Barn to seek knowledge for my first flathead rebuild. Seems theres a wealth of knowledge here and I recognize a few from the Y Blocks forever site also.(great guys over there)

So I picked up a real nice bare 69A block, crank and a set of 8BA rods and pistons, a set of alloy Canadian C7RA heads, then I purchased a Isky Max 1 8BA cam to run a 8BA distributor and a new set of hollow adjustables, an 8BA valve train all from Red's, a pair of new truck 8BA water pumps, HV oil pump, best gasket kit, and a new Stromberg 97 locally, So I still have a few items to collect to get a complete engine as this thing was all just parts, but its off to the machine shop next week to get bored, valves etc and I should get her back as a short block. In the meantime I need to find a oil pan, flywheel, intake etc locally whilst the machine work is being done, cant wait to get it in the 36. She currently has a Ford Pilot 21 stud V8 and the only thing it passes is oil past the rings, been a good soldier all the same.

Keep you posted. :D
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John...I haven't seen any post on this but are you sure the block has no cracks? Has the block been magnifluxed yet?
 
Joe, yes had the block acid dipped twice and hot tanked three times, sonic tested the bores and crack tested the block. Had two small cracks from studs to water holes, nothing to be concerned about I was told by the engine machine shop. Its one of the cleanest flathead blocks I have seen and the best I could get.
 
No, you do not need a different gear set in order to turn something the correct direction.

The only issue with a HV pump is related to the amount of oil which is sometimes bypassed and therefore can contribute to adding temperature to the oil. The fact that the HV pump is not necessary does not mean it will cause damage. It won't.

The pictured pump is not the typical HV pump.
 
JWL said:
No, you do not need a different gear set in order to turn something the correct direction.

The only issue with a HV pump is related to the amount of oil which is sometimes bypassed and therefore can contribute to adding temperature to the oil. The fact that the HV pump is not necessary does not mean it will cause damage. It won't.

The pictured pump is not the typical HV pump.
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I changed the crank gear from 59A to 8BA as the crank gears cut is opposite to each other, running the 8BA cam gear and crank gear.

I do have a question, do you guys plug a relief valve when running a relief valve equipped pump or just run the two??? JG
 
Test fitting some more parts getting things ready before paint.
 

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nice motor, i have a high volume pump in my 35 motor, also i am running both pressure relief valves i have about 20 lb of pressure at idle and about 55 to 57 lb at 50 mph
 
Anyone have a reliable source for 8BA electronic distributors for a flathead, will look at any options as I want to get this engine finished.
 
Fairlane, Your question should read: "Anyone have a source for a reliable electronic distributor..."
From all reports here in Shaky California, electronic ignitions are heat sensitive and unreliable. Best to stick to original Ford.
 
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