New Wire Harness

T

tsanborn

Member
Well, I think it's time for a new wire harness for our '56 Ford Country Sedan. The old one is a Painless (as if!) and has become unreliable. One day the headlights don't work, then when I fix that, the dashboard lights don't come on. The current harness was installed some time ago by parties unknown and the writing on the wires is now for the most part unreadable. And since the wire colors don't correspond to my factory wire diagram, I have to visually follow a wire from one end to the other to know what it is. It doesn't help that none of the harness wires were cut to their proper length leaving me with a rats nest behind the dash. And I find the factory diagram difficult to follow since the Painless harness adds a fuse box with magical things happening on the back of it. Would I be foolish to try and rewire the beast back to the factory specs, leaving out the fuse box? I do like the fact that with the fuse box, I at least know where all the fuses are. The wagon has a 292 with a Vintage Air a/c, and a GM three wire 10 SI alternator. I'd appreciate hearing from the Forum if anyone has replaced their wire harnesses, whose harness it was and what their experiences were. I don't suppose the dash is removable without doing more damage to the car than it's worth? Otherwise, I'll be spending my days head down between the bench seat and the dash trying to feel my way around. My last effort in tracing wires back to their origin with the current wiring produced one extra dash light that can't find the socket where it came from. I don't suppose anyone has a diagram or a photo of the back side of the dash? That would be a huge help![/FONT]
 
The current harness was installed some time ago by parties unknown and the writing on the wires is now for the most part unreadable.

And since the wire colors don't correspond to my factory wire diagram, I have to visually follow a wire from one end to the other to know what it is. It doesn't help that none of the harness wires were cut to their proper length leaving me with a rats nest behind the dash.

And I find the factory diagram difficult to follow since the Painless harness adds a fuse box with magical things happening on the back of it.
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Is the car a dedicated restoration, survivor or driver?

I would think PAINLESS had an INSTRUCTION SHEET and SCHEMATIC. They were just not transferred.

You might want to look at ...


... if the back of the INSTRUMENT CLUSTER is not shown in the 1956 WSM.

If just a driver and upgrading, I would include a quality fuse panel.
 
Over 20 years ago I rewired my 55 bird with a Centech panel. It’s worked perfectly. I had the whole interior out, redid everything. I pulled the dash and did it on the bench. I’m not sure they’re still around, I’m only seeing them on eBay.

I’ve done 3 other cars with American Auto Wire. First class. More terminals (and different types) than you need. Great instructions. I did the dash to a multi connector plug (from Radio Shack, I miss those guys). Dropped it all in. Plugged it together. All of them just worked. Only thing I did wrong was mixing up the front turn and parking lights. 4 times in a row. LOL

If you’ve got time, it’s a lot easier to do the dash on the bench. I did, it was a winter project. But my background is electrical work.

American is more expensive. But you do get what you pay for. If you stay with some of the Ford parts (like the terminal blocks for the head/front lights) you’ll need to buy the correct bullet connectors. I wouldn’t consider giving up the fuse block in favor of the oem in line stuff.
 
Contact Painless, they are known for their tech support. Most excellent. They should have a record of who, what and where it was purchased and installed. Their panels are serial numbered and they record all the above information. The painless system is the best out there IMHO. This opinion comes from having installed three of their systems and installing "others" in both hot rods and 50s - 60s vehicles.
 
I used these guys. They make replica wire harnesses with the correct color codes, wire lengths and connector types. My dash was out as was the entire interior so it was just a matter of reading the diagrams that come with the lit. Not cheap for sure but well worth it IMO. https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/
 
Many thanks for all this great information. Yes, the car is a driver. I've looked around for a copy of the "1956 FORD ELECTRICAL ASSEMBLY MANUAL" but I couldn't come up with one. Does anyone have a copy? Is so, can we come up with a way to get a copy sent to me? Depending on your faith in your fellow man, if someone could send me your edition so I could copy it and return the original.to you. I'd be happy to cover the cost of mailing and all your trouble. Alternatively, if you would make a copy I'd be happy to cross your palms with silver for all the trouble that would be.

We're located in Santa Barbara CA.
 
I vote for another modern style wiring box/harness. Don't spend the money for a name brand one, UNLESS IT COMES WITH ALL THE PIGTAILS. Buy more circuits than you need. You can fold them up tightly with a helper, and secure them up out of the way. This does not mean buy a 26 circuit when you only need 10. A couple extras will not hurt anything.

You need to think about the wiring ends as some wire ends are locking tab, and some are not. If they go into a terminal, or pigtail thingy you need some locking tab connectors. You also might need a tool to release the ends you have, if you will be reusing the pigtail block you have.

Homework now save surprises later. Figure out a plan where you can put one existing circuit install at a time. Resist the urge to start by cutting every wire out of the car to start. Your car is operable (well mostly), so there is no need to not use some of what you already have as known wiring as a guide. You should figure 20 hours of work, after you get going on it.
 
GLAmes said:
I used these guys. They make replica wire harnesses with the correct color codes, wire lengths and connector types. My dash was out as was the entire interior so it was just a matter of reading the diagrams that come with the lit. Not cheap for sure but well worth it IMO. https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/
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YnZ are in my home town and the owner comes to cars and coffee every now and again. Great guy and his operation is first rate based on my tour. If you want high quality factory correct wiring you won't go wrong. But as said above, it's not cheap. I went with Rebel since my rides aren't original. And one more thing, they can customize the loom to include extras like turn signals or whatever.
 
I've looked around for a copy of the "1956 FORD ELECTRICAL ASSEMBLY MANUAL" but I couldn't come up with one.
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GIGGLE 1956 FORD ELECTRICAL ASSEMBLY MANUAL

Most are re-prints, but are exact copies.​
 
All of this depends on the final quality of the car and how it is going to be shown/used.

Now I am CDO (correct alphabetical order of OCD) and want the car (especially the engine compartment) to appear OEM (or as close as possible), whether a driver or resto-mod.

If resto-mod and the car has been jacked, you can (and need to) upgrade the wiring, especially if extra heavy circuits such as IGN, FUEL, CHARGING SYSTEM, HDLS, etc., are added.

Let us know how you go ... :confused: ...and can direct you to either OEM style or modern electrical connectors.
 
Great information from everyone, thanks so much. Especially for the suggestion that I should first remove the dashboard! I was afraid that I would have to spend a month with my feet sticking up and my head jammed under the dash trying to run new wiring by Braille I had assumed that I would have to remove the Vintage Air unit and the windshield to get it out. But no, just popped right out. Well, with the exception of the "Left Air" cable and the "Wiper" cable. How do I disconnect these controls from the dash? I've traced the Left Air to the left vent under the dash and removed the vent cover and tried to remove what I assume is an access panel just to the right of where the cable disappears into the body. I removed the two nuts that I could see but there's still something holding it in place and I don't want to go further until I hear back from the Forum.
 
... with the exception of the "Left Air" cable and the "Wiper" cable. How do I disconnect these controls from the dash? I've traced the Left Air to the left vent under the dash and removed the vent cover and tried to remove what I assume is an access panel just to the right of where the cable disappears into the body. I removed the two nuts that I could see but there's still something holding it in place and I don't want to go further until I hear back from the Forum
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You do have a COMPLETE WORKSHOP MANUAL, correct?

https://www.detroitironis.com/​

I personally prefer DISC or THUMB-DRIVE over paper as you can print out what you need and take it into the shop instead of fighting and soiling a paper manual.
 
I do have a '55 Ford shop manual but I don't see anything in it addressing how disconnect the "left air" cable. Is there a 1956 shop manual? BTW, I was able to pull out the windshield wiper motor which allowed me to release the wiper control cable. So all that's keeping the dash in the car is that left vent control cable.
 
I do have a 1955 Ford Shop Manual. Not sure how different it is from a 1956 manual. I don't see anything in there regarding the "Left Air" cable and how to release it. I was able to get the windshield wiper motor out so I could release that cable. Now the only thing holding the dash in is the left air cable.
 

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The painless system I rewired my 54 Customline with came with a very good manual IMO. It identifies the wires by color as well as number.
You can download the manual for their system for reference.


My fresh air cables are disconnected under the hood at the vent lever. Not sure if the 55 is similar.
 
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