New Two Blade Fan

M

MODELTR

Junior Member
Model A Two Blade fan From Snyder's The Hub Rubs Against the (Nose) End Of The Pump.Any subgestions?
Thanks
Tom
 
This is a common issue. Use a rotary file or rotary stone and take some material off of the fan uniformly around the inside of the casting. Balance is not an issue when removing material close to the rotating axis of the fan.
 
Don’t use a spacer if it does not allow the two tapers to fit together tightly. We had one weld itself to the pump nose. Make clearance.
 
Bob Bidonde said:
This is a common issue. Use a rotary file or rotary stone and take some material off of the fan uniformly around the inside of the casting. Balance is not an issue when removing material close to the rotating axis of the fan.
Click to expand...

Had same problem, did same fix.
 
Seems to be a common problem that I was not aware of until I recently replaced a broken 4 blade fan.
The 'new' 2 blade spun just fine until it warmed up. Had to to remove it along with the water pump and I ground the pump housing.
 
The problem is the taper on the w/pump. Many shafts, years ago, had the wrong taper. This has been discussed here before and I think it's on Vince's site.
Paul in CT
 
I have had to grind the front part of the pump housing on some reproduction model A water pump housings for clearance of the fan housing . The part that gets ground is hidden after the fan is installed . I always prefer old original water pumps for a core .
 
Do not grind the ID of the fan as this will weaken the edge of the pulley and can cause the pulley edge to break off and ruin the fan. If the bore of the fan is made bigger, there is not enough support for the pulley. The OD of the water pump snout varies from pump to pump and if the machining of the housing is slightly off center, that can cause problems as well. You have to file or belt sand the OD of the pump snout to give you enough clearance so that the fan will not rub. There are instructions explaining this that are supplied with the new fans.
 
1931 flamingo said:
The problem is the taper on the w/pump. Many shafts, years ago, had the wrong taper. This has been discussed here before and I think it's on Vince's site.
Paul in CT
Click to expand...
Also this can be caused by the "bridge" inside the cylinder head can be worn down and when the shaft/impeller is fitted to the pump with a proper 0.010 clearance/free motion, too much of the pump shaft is inside the cylinder head - and not enough forward of the bearing to take the fan properly.

The solution is "extended" water pump shafts which are about 1/4" longer. One has to check on these to be sure one doesn't grind a "fan circle" into the backside fins of the radiator.

Joe K
 
I put one of these on a leakless pump about a year ago, I still haven't fired the engine. It didn't seem to rub anywhere when I spun it. Should I yank the radiator again and grind on the housing? Is this a problem with all reproduction pumps?
 
With mine, there was a casting line on the under surface of the water pump that was causing the issue. As soon as I filed this away, the fan did not make contact.
 
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