New tube shocks

duke36

Well-known member
Does anyone have a part no. for replacement type (non- gas filled) tube shocks to fit A's in the U.S.? They should have eyelets on both ends, not one eyelet + threaded end.
 
I used the Snyder tube shock kit on my 1930 Town Sedan. The shocks are eyelet type and no drilling of the front axle. About right in the rear, but a little firm in the front.
The shocks are ProVantage 14HS:
Extended 16 1/2 " eye to eye.
Compressed 10 1/2" eye to eye.
 
I used the Snyder tube shock kit on my 1930 Town Sedan. The shocks are eyelet type and no drilling of the front axle. About right in the rear, but a little firm in the front.
The shocks are ProVantage 14HS:
Extended 16 1/2 " eye to eye.
Compressed 10 1/2" eye to eye.

I used the same ones. The back is fine. The front is far too stiff. Wayne.
 
I can't find any of the shocks listed so far that are not gas charged. Are the ProVantage known by another name? My set up is similar to Snyder's.
 
The gas is only enough pressure to help keep the oil from forming air bubbles when driving over a rough road and working the shocks to the limit. Gas shock sounds like a good idea to me.
 
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A shock works by forcing oil thru a small hole. A bit like the flow of sand thru a hole in an egg timer. A small hole will be harder.
 
thanks t bird for the listings. I'm told gas are stiffer. More research shows 1960's VW shocks may work. There are no id no's or name on my current shocks.
 
This is a very old discussion but appropriate for my current situation. I bought the tube shock kit from Snyder's. It is a good kit and went on the car quickly. I already had the Snyder's style brackets in the rear so I just has to replace the shocks. The old ones had a number on them. I took them to NAPA and got a part number for a replacement from them. It was NS 5850. The internet tells me that they are about $56 each and that they are for a 1963 to 1982 Corvette. So I looked for shocks for that car at Amazon and they had some for about $22.

An earlier discussion on the Barn Forum said that shocks for the 1993-2002 Mercury Villager or 1993-2002 Nissan Quest would work. One part number that fits is the Monroe 37098.

I don't think you will find shocks that will work well on the front end of a Model A. The car is too light and the springs are too different than modern cars. Maybe used adjustable shocks from a sprint car will work, as someone has suggested. I looked for those but came up empty handed. If someone has a link, that would help a lot.

All shocks are filled with pressurized nitrogen gas. This is to keep down the formation of bubbles.
 
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couple months I started a project to build my own brackets and put shocks on my current 31 coupe project. Research led me to late 60's- early 70's Volkswagon shocks. Brackets were made to fit and they are now on that 31 coupe chassi. Has not been out on the road yet so dont know how they will ride. My theory is that the Volkswagons of that period weigh about the same as model A and hoping they will give soft enuff ride.


Brackets were designed to fit the KYB 343144 shock, readily available at most modersn auto parts houses. The same shock fits front and rear. we shall see. ken
 
Thanks for the reminder Bob C. The eyes on the VW shocks are measured in mm - not SAE. I juz went to local hardware and got all mm bolts drilled my brackets to match and problem solved.


...and yes it pains me to mm bolts on a model a. ken
 
Gas shocks are extended right out of the box, and hydraulic are not. Just replaced my Speedway Motors branded gas shocks that failed just out of warranty, gas type not too firm. Speedway sells Afco brand gas shocks way too firm. Now have Pro Shock nongas/hydraulic part # 582-SM500 chrome $87 from Speedway. Eyes at both ends 5/8" or 1/2" eye with bushing inserted. If you search "hot rod shocks" you will find many listed
 
Sounds to me like shocks intended for a Mercury Villager or Corvette would be way too stiff on a Model A. Those two examples have a lot of weight up front compared a Model A.
 
Tim, You are right that they are too stiff. But the ones that fit are for the rear of the Corvette or Villager.
 
An update to what I said previously, it seems monotube shocks are usually high pressure and twin tube are low pressure. Not sure why.
With the high pressure ones, like Bilstein, the initial movement has to overcome the gas pressure, which can seem to create a firmer ride. Ride is then dependent on the oil flow.
 
I am not the shock absorber expert, but I think gas shocks are meant to augment the springs by the pressure of the gas inside. The non gas shocks are filled with nitrogen because it does not include oxygen like air and therefor prevents internal rusting and contamination of the oil. The nitrogen is pressurized to keep the oil from being aerated when the shocks are worked hard and thereby loosing dampening ability. There has to be some gas in there to account for expansion of the oil with increased temperature.

The shocks that came with my kit from Snyder's have a rebound force (extension) that is at least twice that of the compression force. The original Ford shocks were also built this way.
 
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>>There has to be some gas in there to account for expansion of the oil with increased temperature.

It has more to do with the piston rod being forced into the oil chamber on compression. There has to be somewhere for the oil to go. When I burst two new shocks last year the replacements were upgraded to "foam cell" from nitrogen. Foam cell is supposed to be like a piece of yoga mat which can compress. That way the oil touches all the metal surfaces for better cooling.
 
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