New to the Y Block!

Tinker

Tinker

Well-known member
I just picked up a y-block, it looks to be a 57 292/312 ecz-c block and has ecz heads :). It's on a home made roller setup and had been run from time to time. Last time was 07.

After new plug wires and cleaning and setting the points it started up and ran well.

I have searched the web but I couldn't find any numbers on the y-block for a cylinder compression test. What can I hope for? After further investigation I read that it needs or is good at 130-150psi. Agreed?

Another question I had was about the ecz-c code on the block. Is the only way to tell if it's a 292 or 312 is if it has the ecz main caps? Or is it a 312 because it's a ecz-c block?

Thank you.
 
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By the numbers you have given it could be either 292 or 312.
The main caps are one way to check but you can also check the flywheel mounting flange. Check this site for the different markings which denote 312 on the flange.
http://www.ford-y-block.com/crankshaftid.htm
This site is the best source of info and specs. If your engine is 312 it will have a dot on the surface of the flange where shown.
The situation with compression readings is that anything from 130 up would be reasonable on an engine that has been sitting for so long. You should not see any more than 20 pound between the best and the worst.
While cranking remove the valve covers to check that valves are all opening. Y's are notorious for sticking valves on engines that haven't run for a while. Also keep the throttle wide open when cranking/testing compression.
Regards
 
You mentioned you had it running? While the valve covers are off check for oil flow to the rockers. Y-Blocks are known for top end oiling problems along with the sticking valves/bent push rod problems rick55 mentioned.

i noticed in the picture that the dip stick and tube are missing. How are you checking oil level?

Welcome to Y-Blocks and the Ford Barn.
 
Thank you both for your answers.

To explain my direction. I want a good runner that i can put in my 57 panel that has a 6er in now. A good runner meaning i dont want to do a full rebuild.

Plan is to flush and put a new gaskets on the motor.

Rick that site is the site that got me this far. Great info. Now that i know its not stuck i will pull the transmission and check the crank. Pulling the pan as well being this has a car pan and i will have to put a truck (rear sump, to my understanding) on the motor to clear the straight axle. Thanks for the compression info. First time i did the test without opening the butterflies. Want to run it a bit then do it again.

Y-block. Yes you are correct. There is no dip stick and the covers were off during the test run. I drained the oil and put 4qts 30w and a qt of mmo in. There is an oil pressure guage on the side of the block but didnt check it on the quick test run. working the throttle and bottle feeding the carb. All valves are moving and oiling is good. Left a puddle on the driveway. One of the oil tubes doesnt seat in the rocker and looks as if the rocker shaft is offset a little stopping it from seating right. The clip was gone but i have a spare 239? 54 y block that some one gave me i can salvage some parts from. So i have an extra clip. You know all those little parts are priceless when you need them.

I want to run a newer trans with this and know i need a few parts to do so in regards to the bellhousing. Think t5 but i would like my wife to drive it so automatic information is of interest.

I plan to also run a holley 4 barrel and a perx (sp) ignition too.

Thanks for the help, i will have a lot of questions over time to make this work.
 
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Not sure how the motor mounts in a panel but if it is the same as a PU you will need different exhaust, truck front cover and truck front motor mount along with rear sump pan and oil pump pickup.

Can't use the side mounts or rear dump exhaust on truck (unless you run them backwards, but that looks like sheet). Ram horns are nice. may want to look into a truck thermostat housing also, the one that sticks straight up. your engine has the passenger car one.

I'm sure there are other items you will need, I just can't think right now. Starting off the year right... SICK :cool:

Just making a few observations so you can keep your eyes open for parts.

A '57 Y is a good starting point and if it has original heads you have ECZ-G heads which are the "good" ones.
 
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Truck front cover? The timing cover? Bear with me. I knew i needed a differnet motor mount (same as truck) and exhaust manifolds but is the cover different too? what about the water pump? on the exhaust i'm Thinking ram horns or headers. Leaning to headers. Found a rear pan and sump a while back, so that is hopefully done.
 
OK, reread your other post. The overflow tube is what indexes the rocker shaft in the proper position. Sounds like it wasn't assembled correctly. Don't think it will happen but if the shaft rotates it could restrict oil to that side. Something that should be addressed at some point.

The clip you mentioned... I just saw on eBay that someone has a lot of 10 for sale. I was going to get them but then thought why do I need so many???
 
Hi Jim, yes that is my understanding too.

The 292/312 I have is fairly complete, but I was able to use the oil tube retainer clip, a nut, and a bolt from the 239 to complete the driverside rocker on the other motor. Looks like the waterpump pully and fan will work too.

Any catalog/parts stores suggestions from the y-block crowd?
 
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Wow, thanks! The truck cover is what I needed. Now just have to find the motor mount bracket.

On the bellhousing I believe I will have to get a 57 or later truck bellhousing (TAAM-7505A or TAAM-7505B 3sp bellhousing) with the mounts and the holes for the hydraulic clutch to do a t5 conversion. Still not sure what transmission is the best swap. I just want something with an overdrive.
 
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I'm removing the transmission today and it's a ford automatic trans (3 sp Cruise-O-Matic). Do I have to remove some bolts from the flywheel through the lower trans plate? Or can I just unbolt the outer bolts from the bell-housing and pull it apart?
 
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When you have it apart, pull the flexplate and see what markings are on the crank flange. You can then determine what CID.
 
I removed the trans, intake, valley cover, and heads yesterday. Best I can tell right now is that the block is a 292. No dot that I can see. I will be putting it on an engine stand next so I can rotate it and remove the pan and check main and rod bearings.
 
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If you have the heads off you can measure the bore and stroke. 3.80x3.44 = 312, 3.75x3.3. = 292.

How's it looking inside?
 
Looks fairly good inside. Typical sludge in the valley, but not as bad as my flathead was. Cylinder walls look good and there is a very slight ridge on the top of the cylinders, not sure if that is just carbon build up or wear. I did get another compression test in before removing everything and it was 130 across the board. Not perfect but I believe that will increase with some running.

I did come across a fair amount of scale (rust and maybe casting sand?) in the cooling chambers. There was still some water in the right bank too. A bit concerning, but I'm trying to stay positive. We'll see. Once I get it on the stand, I'll check the mains for cracks and maybe plastaguage the mains to see if this is going to be a runner or not.
 
Just put a digital caliper on a few cylinders. 3.78 - 292 then. That works for me!

It's been bored .40 over before so my caliper off some. Does anyone know what the stock piston to piston wall tolerances are?
 
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Put the 292 (EBU mains) on the stand last night after taking the other 239 off it first.

It's a grimy mess right now, but I think it'll clean up just fine. One nice thing about not having a real nice garage floor is you don't have to worry about getting oil on your floor;). The dog is not too amused with the mess and seems a little annoyed that his spot is now occupied by the transmission.
 

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