New to the Model A

slow8

Member
Hey All,

I am new here. I have a few questions but need 10 posts to be able to post pics so I thought I would start with an introduction.

I picked up a 1931 Model A Tudor Sedan. It had on older restoration with metallic red paint and new interior. It seems to be rather stock other than cosmetic stuff.

I will post pics once I am able.

PS, I am located in Utah and looking for local resources.

Cheers!
 
Welcome to the 'Barn' Slow8. Have no fear, you will soon be past that 10 post limit. Can you describe what all you have found out with your new 'Hobby'?
 
Welcome to the 'Barn' Slow8. Have no fear, you will soon be past that 10 post limit. Can you describe what all you have found out with your new 'Hobby'?

I am in love with the Model A, so many directions a person can go. My car is fairly rough but complete so I don't know that it is worth doing a full restoration.

I was going to do an AV8 but I am intrigued with the idea of making it more of a hotrod but keep the 4 cylinder engine.

I am also amazed at the parts availability.

Current plans are to convert to 12v and get the car running. Then disassemble the interior and pull the body and fenders to restore the frame.

It seems the stock wishbone is bent. I am going to replace it as I redo the frame.
 
Slow - if the wishbone is bent then that could indicate that it's been hit hard on the front. Pulling the body and fenders and checking the frame for straight and square is a good idea, but beware that this could open up an entirely larger can of worms. taking things apart is easy and fun, putting them back together maybe not so much.

Take a few minutes to sit down and think about what you ultimately want to do with the car. Do you want a driver only? If so, and you still want to do something with the wishbone, consider just dropping the front suspension, straightening the wishbone, checking the axle for straight and true (and correcting if not), rebuilding the kingpins and reinstalling. (As an aside, I don't recall seeing a bent wishbone that was not accompanied by a bent axle). If the wishbone won't line up properly after straightening it and the axle then you may have some significant frame geometry issues that really won't be resolved without a complete teardown. Frames can be straightened, or simply find a replacement that is straight and go from there.

You can check for local affiliated clubs in your area by going to the Model A Ford Club of America website (www.mafca.com) and searching. It appears that there are five chapters in Utah, so depending upon where you are located you might be able to find some help.

If I was in your shoes, I think I'd try to get the car running reliably before doing any significant mods. No need to change to 12V immediately (and some would say, ever). Drive it around and see how it does. It may be that the bent wishbone doesn't affect the drivability, in which case, a bit of what you see as urgency might be relieved. Go slow and take pictures of everything, you will find that your memory of how things go together isn't as good as you think.

Above, all, have fun, and welcome to the Barn.
 
Thanks for the info JayJay. The frame rails and engine etc... "look" strait, but only time will tell.

I appreciate the info and advice.

I have ordered a carb rebuild kit as the current one is leaking. It seems there is a gas heater installed as there is a lot of extra plumbing. As soon as I get to my 10 posts, I will post a separate thread about that.

Good idea to take lots of pics.

Slow - if the wishbone is bent then that could indicate that it's been hit hard on the front. Pulling the body and fenders and checking the frame for straight and square is a good idea, but beware that this could open up an entirely larger can of worms. taking things apart is easy and fun, putting them back together maybe not so much.

Take a few minutes to sit down and think about what you ultimately want to do with the car. Do you want a driver only? If so, and you still want to do something with the wishbone, consider just dropping the front suspension, straightening the wishbone, checking the axle for straight and true (and correcting if not), rebuilding the kingpins and reinstalling. (As an aside, I don't recall seeing a bent wishbone that was not accompanied by a bent axle). If the wishbone won't line up properly after straightening it and the axle then you may have some significant frame geometry issues that really won't be resolved without a complete teardown. Frames can be straightened, or simply find a replacement that is straight and go from there.

You can check for local affiliated clubs in your area by going to the Model A Ford Club of America website , so depending upon where you are located you might be able to find some help.

If I was in your shoes, I think I'd try to get the car running reliably before doing any significant mods. No need to change to 12V immediately (and some would say, ever). Drive it around and see how it does. It may be that the bent wishbone doesn't affect the drivability, in which case, a bit of what you see as urgency might be relieved. Go slow and take pictures of everything, you will find that your memory of how things go together isn't as good as you think.

Above, all, have fun, and welcome to the Barn.
 
Thanks for the welcome.

Not sure if it is original. How would I determine that?
Compare the engine number to the "VIN" on the title. Also check the build date of the engine. If the engine build date matches other characteristics of the car, and matches the "VIN" on the title, then you may have an original engine. If not, no worries. It was common in the past to just install another engine when one wore out. Sometimes the replacement engine had the old number restamped into it, sometimes the original number was left on the replacement engine. Pretty rare these days to have an original engine in the car.

The only way to really tell is to compare the frame number against the engine number, and determine if the engine has had its number restamped. The former cannot be done easily with the body installed, as the frame number (if it is present at all) is on the frame, underneath the splash apron and underneath the body cowl. Similarly, it would take some detective work on the engine to determine if the number is the original number or a restamp. Once you get to your ten posts take a close picture of the engine number on the left side of the engine, above the water inlet, and let us look at it.
 
Compare the engine number to the "VIN" on the title. Also check the build date of the engine. If the engine build date matches other characteristics of the car, and matches the "VIN" on the title, then you may have an original engine. If not, no worries. It was common in the past to just install another engine when one wore out. Sometimes the replacement engine had the old number restamped into it, sometimes the original number was left on the replacement engine. Pretty rare these days to have an original engine in the car.

The only way to really tell is to compare the frame number against the engine number, and determine if the engine has had its number restamped. The former cannot be done easily with the body installed, as the frame number (if it is present at all) is on the frame, underneath the splash apron and underneath the body cowl. Similarly, it would take some detective work on the engine to determine if the number is the original number or a restamp. Once you get to your ten posts take a close picture of the engine number on the left side of the engine, above the water inlet, and let us look at it.

I will look for that as I pull it apart. Would be fun to know.

The car came from somewhere in Missouri. Like I said, it had an older restoration.
 
Here are some pics of the old girl:

559225


559226


559227
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2976.jpg
    IMG_2976.jpg
    74.7 KB · Views: 205
  • IMG_2988.jpg
    IMG_2988.jpg
    93.6 KB · Views: 217
  • IMG_2989.jpg
    IMG_2989.jpg
    112.7 KB · Views: 204
Well, that's an interesting car. appears to have reasonably solid bones, and it appears to be complete. Early '31 standard Tudor if the radiator shell can be believed. Aftermarket carb.

An early upgrade you might want to consider. If that two-blade fan is steel, replace it! Those original-style two blade steel fans are renowned for failure due to age (rust, fatigue) and the consequences of a blade coming off range from modest to fatal, depending upon what's in the way of the flying fan blade. Search this forum for plenty of horror stories. Most folks recommend the modern cast aluminum two blade fan, but those may be temporarily out of stock at the suppliers.
 
1931 radiator shell, splash aprons, and fenders. Unknown carburetor. Heck, I would daily that.
 
Back
Top