New to me '35 Fordor

[ndnchf]

I dug through my spare parts and have everything needed to rebuild this May 1935 date code generator for the car. I already checked it on my test stand, so I know its good. But a fresh rebuild will make it good for many years to come.

 

[ndnchf]

Steve,

If you haven't already seen it, here is an interesting video about another Virginia 1935: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TGe97L7RUs&t=90s Maybe we could meet for coffee sometime.


Dennis

That's a great video, beautiful car. I learned quite a few things from it. Thanks.

 

[petehoovie]

I dug through my spare parts and have everything needed to rebuild this May 1935 date code generator for the car. I already checked it on my test stand, so I know its good. But a fresh rebuild will make it good for many years to come.

 

[Model51]

Dennisfly - The voice on the video is the owner of the 1935 being featured, Tommy Harper who lives in Bedford, VA. Tommy did an amazing restoration on his car. A couple of us helped him fix the final few items he needed for a virtually perfect car. He's been a member of the Northern Virginia Regional Group of the Early Ford V8 Club. Steve just joined us, hope you consider it too.
Dave

 

[ndnchf]

I got my brakes adjusted, wow what a difference. It stops like a new car. The parking brake works now too.

Another question - does anyone make correct 1935 lower rubber hood corners? I see 1932-34 and 1936 at Third Gen and Drake. It seems 35 uses the same front rubber as '34, but the rear is different. I dont have a body parts manual, but I imagine it is a different part number.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[ndnchf]

I got what I believe is the original engine back to my garage yesterday. It looks to have been rebuilt at some time in the not too distant past. It turns over smoothly and the valves all move. Based on the casting date tag, the heads appear to be post war replacements. The plugs look pretty good too.

I can find no numbers on it. What do you think? I sprayed fogging oil in the cylinders to keep it happy for the time being.

 

[petehoovie]

I got what I believe is the original engine back to my garage yesterday. It looks to have been rebuilt at some time in the not too distant past. It turns over smoothly and the valves all move. Based on the casting date tag, the heads appear to be post war replacements. The plugs look pretty good too.

I can find no numbers on it. What do you think? I sprayed fogging oil in the cylinders to keep it happy for the time being.

 

[ndnchf]

I spent several hours today washing, polishing and waxing the 1935 Ford Deluxe Touring car. I've never been one to give my cars pet names, but while spiffing her up today, she called out to me. I'm calling her "Miss Daisy".

 

[petehoovie]

I spent several hours today washing, polishing and waxing the 1935 Ford Deluxe Touring car. I've never been one to give my cars pet names, but while spiffing her up today, she called out to me. I'm calling "Miss Daisy".

 

[Brian]

"I can find no numbers on it. What do you think? I sprayed fogging oil in the cylinders to keep it happy for the time being".

I'll tell you what I think...the valve springs are still painted, so they haven't done a big mileage. The valley is clean. This would lead me to believe someone has recently performed work of some description to that engine, which included replacing those springs....

 

[deuce lover]

Take a pic of the front deck of the block since you have the intake off. Sometimes they have letters stamped near the front of the deck between the head and where the intake bolts on.Also we can see if its a vented block.

 

[38 coupe]

Post pictures inside the valley of the push rod area and of the front of the valley, that will show ventilated 1935-1936 block or earlier non-ventilated block.
If you really want a positive identification pull the oil pan and measure between the main bearing cap retaining studs. The poured bearing motors have smaller main bearing journals and the bearing caps are narrower than the ones in the insert main bearing motors.

 

[ndnchf]

Ive got the manifold loosely bolted on and it tucked in the corner right now. But here a photo from the other day. It has a large down tube at the forward passenger side. I'll pull it our later in the week and get closer photos.

 

[38 coupe]

Tube at the front of the valley means 1935-1936 engine block.
Last identifying feature: distance between draft on oil pan and front main bearing area of oil pan. The insert main motors, "LB" engines, have larger diameter main bearings with wider main bearing caps. The front of the oil pan is a bit wider to clear the larger main bearing caps. The space between the crankcase vent on the oil pan is much smaller on the LB motors, see picture for comparison with the insert motor pan on the left and the Babbitt motor pan on the right.

 

[ndnchf]

I pulled it out and got some pics of the front of the oil pan. Im not sure which it is, the difference is subtle.

 

[38 coupe]

Based on the first picture where you can see all the way passed the crankcase vent I'm guessing it is a Babbitt motor. That isn't necessary a bad thing as they make the same power as the same year insert motor and with good care last a long time.

 

[ndnchf]

Ok, thanks. FWIW, I just read in the '35-36 book that the oil drain plug was moved from the side to the center in Feb/March of '36 to accomadate a new oil pump. This has the center drain plug.