New to 312 Y Block

A lot of folks refer to them as the X series due to the Ford references. Ford-O-Matics are old school and are, for all intents & purposes, still a two speed with a manual helper gear. The medium case Cruise-O-Matic used from 1958 through the early to mid 60s was a better unit with full dual range 3-speed function and vacuum modulation in later units but they are still weak in the case area and can be damaged under hard use. They can be quirky too. They don't shift real well until they are fully warmed up. The FMX that came out in the later 60s has a beefier case with better web structure. Their not as quirky either and will shift fairly well when cold but they still aren't as beefy as the Ford C6. Now the AOD went a step further in strength but still uses X series design features in the way it functions as a 3-speed with 4th OD. The locking clutch feature is also a very good thing. These transmissions can take a lot more than any of the old X series but they don't have a removable bell so adapters have to be made. The adapter set up gives a much better starter to the old Y-block. Those old starters were a PITA.
 
These should not be confused with a "true " 2 speed Ford O matic that was made from 58 -64. They could be recognized by an aluminum case, and operated much the same as a powerglide. In my opinion, the worst Ford trans ever.
 
The late aluminum case Ford-Os were used in the small Falcon and Comet cars as well as other light duty applications and were not really in the same class as any Cruise-O. It was definitely not one to write home about. The 352 was the largest engine they used them on. The FX small case Cruise-O was a 3-speed and used behind the more powerful small block V8 engines till the C4 replaced it.
 
Agreed. It was not in the same class as any CruisO. They were common in Galaxies with 292's and 223's. I know a few were used on 352's as well, but I have never seen one.
 
Well, about a month ago, finally got the car to the house so I can work on it much, much easier. Tore the carb apart and rebuilt it. It has what looked like cork gasket material in the float bowls. Took it down and cleaned it really well. Now the car will start with the manual choke very well when cold. Haven't figured out the hot starting trick yet. I've checked the battery including stress testing it and it checks good. I'm going to dive into the starter and wiring to make sure it's all up to snuff as when it's up to operating temp, the engine will start to turn over, then stop, then continue. Might be the timing too. Have to clean up the balancer and make the timing mark visible. I'm going to triple check the float level as it has been suggested if it's too high, it would permit fuel to dribble into the engine and also cause hard starting. Once the engine actually turns over like it should, it starts. The ignition system is updated as there is a Ford Motorcraft module under the seat. I changed out the plugs. Seven were the same plug and one was different. Found out why. Seems someone had stripped the flats on the plug so the socket would immediately skip. Went and bought a cheaper 20mm and tapped it on. Plug came right out. It had been in there a good while. Eight new plugs and the engine seems happier.


I've been slowly cleaning things up as the car sat for a long while. I haven't tinkered with the kick-down bracket yet. I won't chrome it. I'd just like something without all the wasted metal as it is a huge chunk of metal sitting there with so much wasted, ugly metal in my opinion. I've been using steel wool to take off the surface rust from the chrome parts. I've taken it to a few cruise ins and so far have gotten a great reception from the local folks. I plan to try and attend one Wednesday night a little further away.

Thanks for all the previous replies, I just wanted to update you all.
 

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Also been working on the oogah horn that's on it. It appears the flange on the horn contacted something like a speed bump. I took it apart and straightened out both sides and the "diaphragm" in the middle. The horn works, has a nice sound, but is not very loud at all. I did not find any name or model number or any kind of identifying marks on it anywhere. Any tips to improve the volume? The tone is nice so I don't think adjusting it would help with the volume. Any tips?
 
Ok, found the numbers on the transmission. On the ID tag, it says "PAR-7003 C2" and "110-23066" I used a camera and looked on the side of the trans housing and found this molded into the casting. "PAK 7006-C W1 . It has 14 bolts on the pan. It has the dipstick into the pan, not the casting. It has trans coolers on the passenger side. It does not have the vacuum housing on the trans.
 
PAR-7003 C


1956 FORD 292-4V F/M Single Range

Also used on some 1955 Models
 
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