New seal for PS ram.

As to the self centering, just loosen the nuts on the bushings, straighten the wheels and re-torque the nuts.

Jack up the front end, so the tires are off the ground, then try the self centering, at least one full turn of the steering wheel. If it doesn't, the bushings are torn.

Are these the new bushings?

How easy was the steering?
 
Bushings are brand new. I had the wheels straight when I tightened them. In the past I've had vehicles that after an alignment they self centered much better.

The steering felt about the same as my Skyliner, not too touchy, had good feel I thought.
 
Between this car and your donor car, you had to remove two crankshaft pulleys. Is it correct to say you had minimal issues with either?

When you let off the steering wheel does it "center" either left or right of center? I realize you haven't had time to drive the car extensively, but when you do, if you are going straight and let of the steering wheel, does the car remain straight?

By comparing the steering to your Skyliner, tells me the steering is working as it should. You are successful in your transplant. Have you noticed any leaking so far, or is it too early to tell?
I have noticed that when you give it a good run, and warm up the system, then let it set for a few days with a drip pan under the control valve, it will tell you if its leaking. I have never had an issue with the ram leaking. The outer seal on the ram, is nothing more than a scraper to remove the dirt from the piston shaft. A boot would be nice but I have yet find one that fits, since the end the ram is not tapered.
 
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Merc Cruzer said:
Between this car and your donor car, you had to remove two crankshaft pulleys. Is it correct to say you had minimal issues with either?

--- Yep, both came off easily, although the parts car needed a wrench on the puller to get it off.

When you let off the steering wheel does it "center" either left or right of center? I realize you haven't had time to drive the car extensively, but when you do, if you are going straight and let of the steering wheel, does the car remain straight?

---The wheel was pretty much staying where it was when you let go. No pull in either direction, but the steering wheel is off center now which I expected. It drives straight when you let go of the wheel.

By comparing the steering to your Skyliner, tells me the steering is working as it should. You are successful in your transplant. Have you noticed any leaking so far, or is it too early to tell?
I have noticed that when you give it a good run, and warm up the system, then let it set for a few days with a drip pan under the control valve, it will tell you if its leaking. I have never had an issue with the ram leaking. The outer seal on the ram, is nothing more than a scraper to remove the dirt from the piston shaft. A boot would be nice but I have yet find one that fits, since the end the ram is not tapered.
Click to expand...

---Control valve is leaking badly, and after my last post we watched under the hood and it leaks when turning even slightly left. It drained the pump dry in about 1 mile. I suspect the seal has failed for some reason. Hopefully today I get some time to take it apart and have a look.
 
Let me hang my a$$ out in the wind once again ... :rolleyes:

Why you tighten the idler arm bushings while in the straight head position is to ensure the least amount of bushing bind when turning. Same as with control arm bushings, if tightened while hanging, when lowered they will be in a bind and will wear/fail more quickly.

The steering has been completely dis-assembled and redone. It needs an alignment rack when the dust settles.

The only thing that is going to ensure straight ahead steering, is correct camber, toe and any power assist adjustments necessary.
 
Bingo.

My buddy has an auto shop and I've used the alignment rack there a few times so I know exactly what you mean. I worked in that shop for a couple months about 2 years ago so I know how an accurate alignment will definitely make it better.
 
I hate to have to tell you this, but you are totally in the "normal" progression of the installation and diagnostics process. First of all you are dealing with PS system that was designed and first used 70 years ago. (To see just how far they came in a short period of time, look at the return hose to the pump. It is the same size as the pressure hose. Just a few years later, that hose was now the size of the windshield washer hose). More likely it has never been serviced, other than to add additional fluid.

First question, it the ram leaking? If not you are that much further ahead, and the PS Gods like you!

Hence the reason I had to search out the "newer design" of control valve seals, because the original ones, no mater if they are being remade or not, did not serve to help solve the issue. Believe me, I still have sets of the original design seals, sitting a a drawer.

I was lucky enough to be speaking with a local member, that owns a car wash facility. That system uses high pressure seals, (your PS system is running between 700-900 PSI) that are replaced on a regular basis. I took the original seals into them and explained the issue I was having, and they provided me with the seals I am currently using. I won't guarantee the it will seal it up totally and forever, but it will seal it up to allow you to use it. In 8 years, I have only added additional fluid once and that was less than an oz of fluid.

The upside, is the you don't have to remove the system from the car, the control valve can be serviced while it is still installed.

This prior post was generated because I have been just where you are now. Don't get discouraged, as the issue is correctable. Read over this post and let me know if you have any questions:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/show...VUhJR59KincpR1CeMmbUBem68_Uq3XQRhwPUGJ1GqEwv0

Since I am retired feel free:

Roy Lange
Conifer, CO
(303) 838-2028 (land line)
royd13483@aol.com
 

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Roy I really appreciate your post, and don't worry, I'm not discouraged! I truly enjoy working on older cars and to me it's just a case of: Dang. Ok, I guess I get to work on it some more! I can also learn how to make it better and hopefully pass the info on to others.

I was texting a friend of mine last night, he has restored probably 25 or so 50's Fords. By restored, I mean frame off type of work on almost every one. He said he has had a few control valves screw up on him. I said it's good to know that even the legends screw up once in a while. He said his Dad told him that the only guy that doesn't do anything wrong is the guy that doesn't do anything. His Dad was a wise man!

I have read through your post on sealing a PS system, it is invaluable information. I do like the fact I can take the control valve off quite easily and leave the rest of it there. I'm blessed with a hoist in my garage.

One of these nights, I just might give you a call, would be good to chat cars and stuff.

Almost forgot, the ram did not appear to leak at all, but I'll have a closer look when I'm under the car again in a short bit.
 
It's working great now!

Not sure if I didn't get the loaded seal in there properly to begin with, or if it popped out during reassembly. I think it popped out. Anyway, I spent some time with two small screwdrivers pushing that seal into place all the way around. I was a bit more "violent" with it this time. First time I was afraid to ruin that seal as they seem so fragile. One screwdriver to keep the lip downwards and the other screwdriver to push on the back of the seal to get it into place. Slowly worked my way around the seal. My hands and everything were coated with PS fluid so nothing was dry.

Bolted it all back together, added fluid and fired it up. No leaks, no dripping on the floor. Self centering is much better, there was likely no assist at all turning left before.

Took the family to town for dinner in the car. No issues. I can hear the pump whine a bit with the radio off and engine idling, but not too bad. Road feel is good, still feels like a manual on the highway, just easier to turn and much easier on my left arm in a crosswind.

Once home, I looked underneath and the ram had a drip hanging there, so did the control valve but that's minor. The drip on the control valve may be coming from the grease that pushed out the fluid when I regreased the ball stud. I have a half bottle of that PS stop leak I'll put in after I take some fluid out. Even if it drips a bit, this isn't a show car, it's a driver. I wouldn't be surprised if the drips go away with time.

I think the outer tie rod ends should be replaced. I put a pry bar under the tie rod, the end of the pry bar on top of the a-arm, and pushed up on the handle. There was some noticeable movement on both tie rod ends, probably a couple mm. WHen you try and move them by hand they seem ok, but not with a pry bar.

Overall it performs real nice. A bit relieved and the wife can park in the garage now haha.

I admit, even though I wasn't all that discouraged when it was leaking, part of me was thinking I shouldn't have bothered. That's totally gone now and I'm glad I took on this project!

Thanks so much you guys!
 
Thanks for the link, I did have my radio converted or should I say, upgraded to FM. The radio didn't work, had it repaired and he installed an FM module. Then I put a bluetooth to FM converter in the ashtray and I can listen to music from my phone, and take phone calls to boot!

Using your link, I might upgrade my Skyliner when the time comes. Very useful pics and writeup you have in there. Much cheaper than having a pro do it.

Back to the power steering, the ram leaves about a 3 inch puddle overnight. Methinks that will not get any better.

I see rockauto has a new ram for 240 Canadian or so. I can't see the local guys rebuilding mine for that kind of money. Something to think about.

I'm just super happy with how well it's working.
 
Make sure *** has the small tube on the top, some don't. If it was warmer and you could use it more the ram might seal back up is use. Cold is not your friend at the moment.

I will have to see what radio was in the Sklyliner.
 
Mine doesn't have the tube, neither does the Skyliner.

The radio in the Meteor and Meteor Skyliner is the same as 53/54 Mercury.
 
Interesting that yours doesn't have the tube. It was my understanding that was the way the fluid went from one side to the other, when the piston went from left to right and visa versa.

My book, only shows the one with the tube. I am wondering since yours is a 54' was there a change.

I checked my book for 54'-55' and it shows the same picture. Now I am wondering if that was a change for Canadian production. I need to get my hands on a Canadian chassis parts catalogue.
 

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The Meteor parts catalog shows the same part numbers as yours for both 53 and 54. When I talked to a friend of mine about this PS setup I have, he said that the ram must have been replaced with a newer one as it should have had the breather tube.

Kinda wish I had a parts catalog for my 57 Monarch...
 
Just remembered my oil reservoir cover gasket leaks. Without spending 100 bucks on a kit I don't need, know any place I can get one or something that will work? The Ford part number is: 33535 A
 
I am wondering if you are building up too much pressure in the ram, when you turn the wheel, without that tube.

You know, with all the pictures I have of the PS system for my car (and there are a few) I don't have one of the pump top gasket. Looks to be a cork gasket, so it would swell and seal as it became saturated with fluid. Just replace it with a flat rubber "O" ring from a hardware/plumbing store, or buy a sheet of cork (from a hobby/craft store) and cut one out. That way you are only looking at a couple of bucks. If you can get the cork gasket out in one piece, soak it in hot water overnight, then just flip it over for a new sealing surface, for a temporary fix.

I know the lid has to be screwed down tight but it is a fine line before the top begins to cave in.
 

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rjlester said:
Just remembered my oil reservoir cover gasket leaks. Without spending 100 bucks on a kit I don't need, know any place I can get one or something that will work? The Ford part number is: 33535 A
Click to expand...

The donor car is a 1954 FORD, correct?

What is your PS PUMP bowl diameter?

From what catalog did you get BASIC PN 33535?
 
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