New seal for PS ram.

Ford had only one hole on the bottom of the mounting plate and Mercury had 2 for 53'.

Ford is the first picture and Mercury is the second and third pictures.

When I bought the unit for my car, it came with the Ford bracket and I found the Mercury bracket (NOS) at Green sales.
 

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Yep, the AB-3351-C is the part number on mine. I would post a pic, but it's laborious on my end.

So would that bracket have been black, or painted cast originally?
 
When I bought the NOS Mercury one for my car, it was not painted. I decided to paint it anyway to protect it from the elements.
 

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Thanks for the clarification as to the terminology. It has been awhile since I did the installation. As you can see from my pictures that is excitably what I used.

I still had my back up set with the instructions. I went back to see just what I bought and it appears I got them from NPD. The were for 55-57 TBIRD P/S and installation kit - 65-70 Mustang P/S CYLINDER BRA


NPD: https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=crush+nut&top_parent=200001&year=
 

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Last edited:
"Could I tighten it down as close as I can on the hoist, then drive it outside and on the pit to loosen/retighten the bushings with the wheel perfectly straight?"

The answer is yes.
Click to expand...

Well ... :rolleyes:

The bushing sleeves will have (should have) serrations top and bottom to hold the bushing in place. If you do not tighten to spec and then turn the wheel, the rubber insert may cling to the arm and not be centered (self centering feature) once correct torque is applied.

Hope that makes sense and yes Mercman I am retaining water.
 

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Wasn't able to pick any up at the fasteners place, they don't carry the hex nuts. Only round. They recommended two other local places but they are not open again until Monday so I'll pop in at that time and see what I can find.

Worst case scenario I order them online.

Good tip on the bushings having those serrated edges, I'll have to be careful when I install everything. Might have to really loosen them before I tighten them up for good.
 
- FINAL TOUCH -

PS CYL BOOT KIT - C1AZ 3C651-A (NOS)

531790
 

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Will that fit the 54 ram? It looks like the one I put on my 68 Cyclone a few years back.

Regarding the Hex nutsert, I'm hearing from more than one source that they are difficult to install. Either using the tool, or using a bolt/nut/washer it just strips the threads in these nutserts made nowadays.

Can anyone here confirm this?
 
rjlester said:
Will that fit the 54 ram? It looks like the one I put on my 68 Cyclone a few years back.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is for a 1953-1961 FORD. The ILL's don't show one and I came across this PN while looking for something else. The boot protects the end seals from road dirt. If you can't find NOS, there are available elsewhere if you use the FORD PN on a SEARCH.

Regarding the Hex nutsert, I'm hearing from more than one source that they are difficult to install. Either using the tool, or using a bolt/nut/washer it just strips the threads in these nutserts made nowadays.

Can anyone here confirm this?
Click to expand...

You need to buy QUALITY PARTS. I would trust NPD.

The tool is for a tech that does a lot of this type of repair.

MERC CRUISER should be able to give you advice there.
 
rjlester said:
Will that fit the 54 ram? It looks like the one I put on my 68 Cyclone a few years back.

Regarding the Hex nutsert, I'm hearing from more than one source that they are difficult to install. Either using the tool, or using a bolt/nut/washer it just strips the threads in these nutserts made nowadays.

Can anyone here confirm this?
Click to expand...

I too read all the horror stories before I installed them. I did order two sets just in case, since it was the first (and as it turns out the last) time I ever installed them. But I didn't have any issues. I ordered mine from NPD (link in prior post), maybe the ones they have, are a little higher quality (or at least they were).
 
PS CYL BOOT KIT - C1AZ 3C651-A (NOS)

When I decode the number, is seems to be for a 1961 Mustang. Maybe I am reading it wrong.

C = 60's
1 = year
A = Ford full size
Z = Mustang
A - Chassis

My wife has a 1970 Cougar XR-7 with P/S and it came with a boot. I tried to put the boot on mine, but the end of cylinder is way too big for the boot collar. You may have better luck.
 

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Update: I picked up a complete riveter kit for doing these nutserts or whatever the official name of them is haha. Here is what I got, the price was right too:

https://www.princessauto.com/en/17-in-riveter/product/PA0009203407

It comes with the rivet tool, and both metric and sae ROUND rivet nuts. Hopefully I can pick up some 3/8 -16 Hex rivet nuts in the next few days. Might even try one in the store with this tool and see if it works, or if there is an issue....

Despite the kit being chineseum, it's heavy and seemingly good quality.

As for the boot, I'm going to leave it exposed for now. I want to drive it a bit and see if that ram leaks at all. A boot will just hide that for a while until it starts filling the boot. Been there, done that with my Cyclone, ram used to leak but I replaced it years ago when they were cheap to buy.
 
Inventoried all my parts, and of all things I'm missing, is the roll pin for the control valve.

Anybody know what size that sucker was? I can buy a kit fairly cheap.
 
I have a complete used PS system from a 54 Ford to convert my car to power steering.
Click to expand...

:confused:​

What year and model car are we working on, six or eight?

Your ILL shows 1953 FORD

531850
 
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