New Rottlieb Hood Issue

Curt Campbell

Senior Member
I have a new Rottlieb hood for my 31 Tudor. Upon quick test fitting of the hood to see how it matches the cowl curvature, it appears that it is not curved sufficiently to match the cowl. I reinstalled my original hood to check...it still matches cowl perfectly. I have always heard their hoods match perfectly....so I bought one.

Have you experienced this problem with the Rottlieb hood? If so, how did you re - work the hood to match the curvature? Or....do I have a bad hood and need to get another?

Thanks for your help. I hope the pic shows the problem. It doesn't appear to me this issue can just be fixed without bending the hood or getting another one.
 

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Tightening down doesn't seem to help. It still sticks out since it appears the hood is not formed tight enough around the curve.
 
Check your front cowl rubber shims if they're flattened out or gone & add a couple to raise front of cowl which will maybe help set the hood when rear latches are latched may pull the slack out of that gap you have with the hood. This adjustment may foul things up with the alignment of your doors, so check them out first if they are in alignment. Just a thought.
 
i have seen that same problem with some of their 28-29 hoods. i have one of their hoods on my 31 pickup and it is very good. except that the handles kind of sucked so i put on original ones.
 
Rootleib has measurements for the hoods on their web site that you can check against yours. If your measurements are off, they can custom make a hood for you. I just dropped my '29 cabriolet off at Rootleib in Turlock today for them to make a custom fit hood. My measurements were very close, but not exact. I was able to go this route because they are not too far for me to drive back and forth. ...but they will make a hood off your measurement and send it to you as well.
 
I would add to the curve as 1930 Coupe suggests. I've seen the same problem on other hoods, and it was easy enough to add to the curve.
 
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Very, very few hoods we have purchased fit straight out of the box. First, look at the cowl lacing and make sure it is installed to the proper thickness. We generally find ourself soaking them in lacquer thinner to remove the creosote, then pulling the lacing thru the English Wheel to compress it before installation. Then we often run the upper panels through the E Wheel too to get the proper curvature.
 
It's a repro parts and despite the good name of the company they are not always perfect. I had the same issue but just grabbed it and bent it further, tightening up the curve. Don't get excited, just go for it. It's only sheet metal and it is pliable. You'll feel in charge once you get it to conform to the cowl.
 
Thank you all! Brent....I will work on the cowl lacing. It's the 2nd one I have gotten. This one from Brattons seems to be pretty good...but will take your advice...thanks. The first one was a Vintique piece of junk!
 
It's a repro parts and despite the good name of the company they are not always perfect. I had the same issue but just grabbed it and bent it further, tightening up the curve. Don't get excited, just go for it. It's only sheet metal and it is pliable. You'll feel in charge once you get it to conform to the cowl.


So true!
 
The repro hoods are pretty good but there are not shaped properly. The top panel is not curved right, but that can be corrected and made close. The side panels look great but will always have a flaw. They were made flat. The originals were curved to match the front and rear curves of the body. The curve was constant through the louvers and this is the issue. The louvers are flat and can not be made curved without disturbing the spacing. So you have to do your best to give a curve at the front and rear being careful not to mess up the louvers. BTW flat louvers are how you identify the repro hoods on a car as many cars have incorrect bends at the front and rear with their original hoods.

FWIW getting a hood right is not easy so if you fought to get your hood close then feel good about your work.
 
The Ford Motor Company had the same problem during Model A production, so they had a jig to increase the curvature of the hood. I saw a photo of it, and a replica was made many years ago by Long Island club members.

Make a full size template of the curvature that works for you car, and using plywood make a jig that has a bit sharper curve to allow for spring back. Then use the jig to bend your repro hood panels.

The Ford jig I saw in a photo had moveable forms that spread out against the hood to shape it. The hood including its side panels was clamped on the jig as it is on a car.
 
The Ford Motor Company had the same problem during Model A production, so they had a jig to increase the curvature of the hood. I saw a photo of it, and a replica was made many years ago by Long Island club members.

Make a full size template of the curvature that works for you car, and using plywood make a jig that has a bit sharper curve to allow for spring back. Then use the jig to bend your repro hood panels.

The Ford jig I saw in a photo had moveable forms that spread out against the hood to shape it. The hood including its side panels was clamped on the jig as it is on a car.

http://vintagefordfacts.blogspot.com/2010/12/building-model-ford-bodies-at-long.html

Take a look at the third picture, and you will see your problem is not a new one! Good Luck getting it fixed.:)
 
Thanks again everyone. Kevin...great info...thanks. Bob...I like the jig idea...perfect and I have lots of scrap plywood.

Been doing body work since I was a boy...just first model A!
 
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