New RH Y block exh manifold

[1930artdeco]

Ok, so I managed to break my original RH exh manifold for my Y block. So I had to get a new one. But the new one does not come with a spot to put the hot air choke tube. Any recommendations on how to remedy the situation for hot air? I will be using the heat riser that attaches between the manifold and pipe.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[fordor41]

personally I'd drill a short blind hole in the manifold, run the tube to the carb, crank the choke open and drive. really shouldn't need a choke that much in calif. I've run my choke wide open for years in NYS. couple pumps and running, even in winter. '60 ford y-block. at least you'd have the look of a choke tube.

 

[dmsfrr]

There's a '59 version that has a fitting for a hot air choke tube.
The '60 / '62 version may have it also ???

http://www.y-block.info/casting/exhaust.html
.

 

[KULTULZ]

Your engine is (supposedly) a 1957 292 and it had a later (1958/ ) - EDIT - 1959/ RH exhaust manifold choke stove in it?

Are you wanting to replace as such or want to revert back to the earlier style heat style (intake manifold) or possibly an electric choke?

 

[1930artdeco]

Originally the manifold came with the tube for the hot air choke and the heat ‘riser’ that goes between the manifold and the pipe. I am Moving to Washington so will need the choke occasionally. If I can drill a blind hole without weakening the metal I will just do that. The manifold that I broke was just like the one that DMSFrR pictured. But to answer your question I am going back to stock.

Mike

 

[KULTULZ]

But to answer your question I am going back to stock.

Well, that is not stock for a 57 FYB. It wasn't used until the 1958 - EDIT - 1959 model run. Just drilling a hole (and possibly drilling into an exhaust passage) will not give you a proper choke stove.

Do you see that opening? That is for a fresh air inlet filter. It is not going to send heat to the choke without it.

 

[Hot Rod Reverend]

One thing to add to what Kultulz has said... if you do drill into the manifold to plumb your own heat, be advised that if the tube is open to the exhaust smoke you will get a black carbon build up that will eventually get inside your thermostatic choke. It is very similar to the issues you can have if with the sheet metal tube in the intake manifold that Ford plumbed the hot air to the Holley 4000s and of course the 57 4 barrel intakes as well. Those tubes inside the intake can rot out and when they do - that carbon builds up inside your choke housing pretty quickly.

 

[dmsfrr]

Ford used the small heat tube inside the exhaust crossover beginning in '56.
Mostly on the T-Birds??? to not disturb the view of the optional cast aluminum valve covers.

But the small tube burned out easily and was a (dealer service ?) maintenance headache.
A band-aid hex fitting was apparently created that could be easily added to an exhaust manifold or intake manifold crossover, until the exhaust manifolds were redesigned.

The heat riser valve often at the rear of the right side exhaust manifold on dual exhaust cars, can also get badly corroded and be a maintenance headache.
It can: have the external spring removed, the weight lever tied down in the 'open' position, be removed or replaced with an open spacer.
Removed or blocked open isn't usually a problem unless the car is parked outside then driven in winter weather.

 

[dmsfrr]

One thing to add to what Kultulz has said... if you do drill into the manifold to plumb your own heat, be advised that if the tube is open to the exhaust smoke you will get a black carbon build up that will eventually get inside your thermostatic choke. ...

Correct, exhaust in the choke is a very bad idea.
.

 

[1930artdeco]

Ok. Thanks, that explains a bit. The manifold had 58/59 casting numbers on it. That also explains the ‘bolts’ in the intake, so they need to be removed and the tube replaced and then hooked to the carb. Thank you for the help.

Mike

 

[dmsfrr]

Ok. Thanks, that explains a bit. ....That also explains the ‘bolts’ in the intake, so they need to be removed and the tube replaced and then hooked to the carb. Thank you for the help.
Mike

If the car is a '56 or '57 and you're going back to 'factory original', most likely Yes.

What year and model are you working on?

 

[KULTULZ]

What year and model are you working on?

Better yet, what is the CASTING ID on the INTAKE MANIFOLD. It may not be the original engine altogether. Better even yet, what is the CASTING ID NO off the exhaust manifold?

NOS exhaust (C2AZ 9430-A) manifolds are available, but you don't want to know what they are going for.

 

[KULTULZ]

Just a tidbit of info -

The exhaust manifold you see below -

... is an early manifold with a service upgrade kit that would convert an early choke stove (intake manifold) to a later exhaust mounted choke stove.

 

[dmsfrr]

... The manifold had 58/59 casting numbers on it.

... What year and model are you working on?

... It may not be the original engine altogether. ...

Look for the casting number on the engine block.
Most likely 3 letters followed by '6015" and another letter.

Engine block ID chart at this link, with photo examples of their various locations.
http://ford-y-block.com/Block%20identification.htm

 

[Gene F]

Before I changed my car over to a tri-power (57 - 292), I converted my choke over to an electric. If you drive your car it's the way to go. JMHO

 

[KULTULZ]

There's a '59 version that has a fitting for a hot air choke tube.

The '60 / '62 version may have it also ???

http://www.y-block.info/casting/exhaust.html
.

There were two styles. The OEM style began in 1959 (B9AE 9428-A). That went to a 1962 SERVICE REPLACEMENT SERVICE PART NUMBER (C2AZ 9430-A).

There was a SERVICE UPGRADE KIT (B9AZ 9A761-A) made available to use a EXH MAN source choke stove (1955-59 FYB) -

And then there was the OEM EXH MAN that was closed. The KIT required drilling the manifold to fit the HEAT CHAMBER (9890) -

 

[1930artdeco]

So I bolted the replacement manifold up on the engine thinking it would match the dimensions of the original-nope. It is so long in the back that I can't use the heat riser spacer. The pipe bolts right up. Not that that is a big deal the engine will heat up on its own eventually. And it may actually be less restrictive.

Mike

 

[KULTULZ]

personally I'd drill a short blind hole in the manifold, run the tube to the carb, crank the choke open and drive. really shouldn't need a choke that much in calif.

I've run my choke wide open for years in NYS. couple pumps and running, even in winter. '60 ford y-block. at least you'd have the look of a choke tube.

Why go to all that trouble for nothing gained?

 

[KULTULZ]

So I bolted the replacement manifold up on the engine thinking it would match the dimensions of the original-nope. It is so long in the back that I can't use the heat riser spacer. The pipe bolts right up. Not that that is a big deal the engine will heat up on its own eventually. And it may actually be less restrictive.

Mike

Any chance of your posting the CASTING ID NOS from both EXH MAN so we can understand what is going on?