New Project: 1959 Custom 300

D

docsrodshop

New member
Went to the Mecum Denver auction and drove home a '59 Custom 300 two door sedan, 223 six cylinder, 3 speed (non-overdrive). The car has 29,500 what appear to be original miles and was last registered in Nebraska in 1979. I wasn't able to track the consigner down to ask questions but everything about this car says that it's original and was well cared for when on the road. We even drove it 30 miles home with only a stop to top off the leaking radiator.

There are 5 minor rust areas - the lower corners of both front fenders, the driver's side rear wheel arch, passenger side lower quarter and the 3 small holes in the body mount brace near the right rear wheel. It's got other issues typical of a 60 year old car that's been sitting for 40 years but I've got brake and front end parts on the way and the radiator's going to the shop tomorrow.

Our (my grandson and I) original plan was to put an FE and a 4-speed top loader in it and recreate a car that would have looked right at home in my high school parking lot in the mid-60s, but the car is just too nice and original so I'm leaning more toward keeping it original. And that poses the question: How much can or should I do to the car? Safety is obviously a prime concern which is why I'm tackling the brakes and suspension right off the bat. Things like the leaking rear main and ****** output shaft seals will come over the winter. General maintenance (tune up, carb rebuild, tailpipe, new battery, hoses, etc.) are all in line, but I have no intention of messing with the nice original paint. So my dilemma is cosmetic refurbishment. Should I put paint on things like suspension components or the engine once work on them is completed and I've cleaned them up? The headliner has a couple of small holes that are hidden when the passenger visor is up. Should I worry about that? And I'm sure there are a host of other cosmetic things I'll find when I'm getting it ready for the road. I'm looking for opinions (and I know there will be many) in the hopes that they will help me codify my own thinking.

Thank you all in advance.

- Glenn
 

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First impression... I admit to liking your FE idea but have no idea what the complications of changing to V8 driveline and any needed suspension upgrades would be.
If all the rubber suspension bushings / parts need replacement anyway that could help offset some of the upgrade cost. If you're concerned about eventual resale value I'd expect the V8 to have more appeal but it will cost more, and the payback may not be there.

There may be enough repair projects 'as is' to keep you busy and happy. It already looks very nice.
Live with it for a while before you decide.

Repainting parts as needed when repairing things shouldn't be a problem but if they look 'too new', it makes the parts next to them look even older.

.
 
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Its really a nice car. My dad used to have one just like it but the color was a baby blue body with a white top. I do see some rust spots on your car so more than likely you will find more.Did you check the floor pans for rust. I also would suggest to leave it all original.Once you do all the repairs,it will be a really nice car.
Mando
 
Given what was paid for it should tell you the real value. It would cost much more to "restore" then the car would be worth in the end. If you want an original and cost is no issue go for it. If you want a reliable, safe old car some upgrades will be the thing to do. Power disc brakes, new master, air, power steering, seat belts, and suspension upgrades.


You can have a completely looking stock outside with all the new good stuff under the sheet metal and enjoy many miles of comfortable cruising. Just MHO, should be told I am an old street rodder.....:<)
 
You seem to have found the creamiest and puffiest of cream puffs and took it home.

Congratulations. Depending on the roads it will be driven on, I too would leave it stock. It will teach youngsters how to turn a steering wheel with both arms, not one finger. It will teach foot - hand coordination with the clutch and shifter. I would also caution against modern freeway speeds. With no overdive, the motor may not like 75 for more than a few minutes. Have fun. Juliano's have great three point seat belts.
 
I'd forget the disc brakes, you won't push the car hard enough to need them. I'd update the drums to station wagon/ranchero shoe and cylinders, and definitely update the master to a dual reservoir. A manual, drum/drum master from a '67 Galaxie will work fine.
 
I wouldn't bother painting suspension parts, just do regular R&R things and for safety. Very nice looking car. Might be able to get old school body man to spot in rust areas after repaired. Try to keep overall look. It looks like a well kept survivor. That is just my opinion though it is your car. Odd thing as soon as I seen 59 custom I thought of that color.
 
Yes, it's original but it's also just a box on wheels-low budget basic transportation of the day. The heater (likely dealer installed) looks like it's the only option on the car. Not much fun to drive! Being "original" is not always desirable!
Your high school car of the '60's idea is intriguing, and doable without destroying the 'originality' of the car. Any FE engine is a direct bolt-in and can be unbolted. The Toploader will require a hole in the floor. A cover can easily be made if going back original. Just take out and keep the original mat first. Same with any other upgrades. They are all bolt-on, although a high schooler of the mid-60's didn't worry about brake or suspension upgrades. Just drop in that 390 and go! A sleeper!
 
I'd keep a period look if swapping in an FE. Also, instead of top loader, get an 3 speed with OD so there's no cutting. I cringe at the idea of cutting an unmolested low mileage car.
 
Thanks for the kind words. Upgrades like disc brakes are not on the table both because (A) they ruin the originality and (B) the cost involved. The same goes for a full restoration which isn't needed since the car's in such good condition as well as (A) and (B) above. I have an acquaintance who has painted a number of show cars who I'll get to match the paint once the rust repair is taken care of. The spots I mentioned are the only ones noted so far. I haven't pulled the rubber mats from the floor but we did a pretty thorough going over of the underside once we had it on the lift and the floors and trunk floor are solid.

This won't be a daily driver just a fun car to take out when the weather's nice (I spent decades driving rwd vehicles in the snow here and want no part of that again) and to let people see what the state of the art was 60 years ago. We got many stares, thumbs up, and questions and comments driving it home from the auction and I know that will continue. The hop up ideas came before I saw how original the car is and I'd like to think I'll find someone to be its caretaker after I've enjoyed being its steward in a few years. I have no misconceptions about making a profit when I sell the car. I just want to do right by it. There's assuredly another car out there for the high school project.

I have a couple of other projects of which one is going to be my sleeper daily driver (again when the weather permits) which will satisfy my needs for speed and power, so this one's safe.

I'll post more pictures once we get it on the road just to let you know it's being driven since the car will look very much the same than as it does now.

Again, thanks for the kind words, ideas and opinions. They're appreciated.

- Glenn
 
My Father had the same car in the mid-60's (Custom 300 6 cyl. 2 dr 3 speed stick), except it was blue.
Thanks for the memories.


Sal
 
Nice 59 ! My older brother bought a brand new one in 59, that was a 300 had those exact same colors. Car looks identical to what I remember. His was a 292 with 2spd auto though.
 
40 Deluxe said:
Your high school car of the '60's idea is intriguing, and doable without destroying the 'originality' of the car. Any FE engine is a direct bolt-in and can be unbolted. The Toploader will require a hole in the floor. A cover can easily be made if going back original.
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- IMO ONLY - ... :rolleyes:



I see no problem with the modification(s) as long as the upgrades can be reversed and retention of all original take-out parts if a future buyer is only interested in the originality of the car.


A trimmed out 1958-59 352 INTERCEPTOR ENGINE TRIM would be nice with a 390 under it.


As for three-on-the-tree ... :( ..., go 4S and be careful cutting the tunnel. It can be capped or restored later if going back to column shift.


No reason not to enjoy the car as it is not say a 1960 STARLINER 360HP car.
 
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Herman Munster said:
I vote keeping it original. It's only original once.
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Concur with the Munster. Looks great as is. If you think you can match the paint, I would fix the rust in the interest of stopping it from getting worse. As for the running gear, change the rear gear to a later model higher ratio in the order of 3.25:1 to slow that engine down relative to our higher highway speeds. The 6 banger has plenty of torque to move that relatively light car over hill and dale.

Beautiful example of a pristine original and it would be a shame to rod it with an FE power plant. Think of trying to drive it without P/S. Then there is the issue of suspension mods to handle the much heavier FE. With the FE you will certainly need power disc brakes as well. The costs just aren't worth it especially when you consider what you are giving up in originality.

My opinion and worth every cent you paid for it.
 
Nice ride. Mine was missing EVERYTHING so mine took another direction. I replaced every bit of window channel, rebuilt both doors, with new glass and windshield. Rewired 100%, discs up front with dual master. Went over the whole front end, rear brakes, posi rear, big sway bar up front.
 

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docsrodshop said:
Thanks for the kind words. Upgrades like disc brakes are not on the table both because (A) they ruin the originality and (B) the cost involved. The same goes for a full restoration which isn't needed since the car's in such good condition as well as (A) and (B) above. I have an acquaintance who has painted a number of show cars who I'll get to match the paint once the rust repair is taken care of. The spots I mentioned are the only ones noted so far. I haven't pulled the rubber mats from the floor but we did a pretty thorough going over of the underside once we had it on the lift and the floors and trunk floor are solid.

This won't be a daily driver just a fun car to take out when the weather's nice (I spent decades driving rwd vehicles in the snow here and want no part of that again) and to let people see what the state of the art was 60 years ago. We got many stares, thumbs up, and questions and comments driving it home from the auction and I know that will continue. The hop up ideas came before I saw how original the car is and I'd like to think I'll find someone to be its caretaker after I've enjoyed being its steward in a few years. I have no misconceptions about making a profit when I sell the car. I just want to do right by it. There's assuredly another car out there for the high school project.

I have a couple of other projects of which one is going to be my sleeper daily driver (again when the weather permits) which will satisfy my needs for speed and power, so this one's safe.

I'll post more pictures once we get it on the road just to let you know it's being driven since the car will look very much the same than as it does now.

Again, thanks for the kind words, ideas and opinions. They're appreciated.

- Glenn
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It is so refreshing to see someone who can appreciate this car the way it was made. As others have said, it is only original once and your right that it doesn't need disc brakes. Repair as needed and enjoy a real nice car from the 50's.
 
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