New Problem, Paint
- Thread starter Terry NJ
- Start date
pgerhardt
Well-known member
Be careful most primers today do use a hardener. If not disassembled and cleaned, this could happen to your gun:
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174305
1Tudoor
Senior Member
Best to transfer to a clean container & clean gun .
Used to paint quite a bit but my infrequency combined w/ the technology , costs & choices has limited my painting .
I've had V/G luck w/ single stage urethane as shown on this biplane . It is very impervious to almost everything yet remained flexible even on the covering . Color is Chrysler deep cranberry pearl
Used to paint quite a bit but my infrequency combined w/ the technology , costs & choices has limited my painting .
I've had V/G luck w/ single stage urethane as shown on this biplane . It is very impervious to almost everything yet remained flexible even on the covering . Color is Chrysler deep cranberry pearl
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pooch
Well-known member
20 minutes in gun no probs.
Sometimes I leave it an hour between coats, so the mixed paint can be up to 3 hours old .
Acrylic enamel with hardener would not start gelling for hours.
Heat accelerates curing, if you left over mixed paint, and want to use it, add a few drops of thinners and put it in the fridge.
May last up to a few days.
Some say that once mixed paint is made cold and the curing slows down, it will never cure after that.
I reckon this is an old wive's tale, I have done it for years, although the last lot of paint I stored in fridge stunk the fridge out.
Do your own test, when done spraying, put some mixed paint in a shallow dish and keep an eye on it.
Sometimes I leave it an hour between coats, so the mixed paint can be up to 3 hours old .
Acrylic enamel with hardener would not start gelling for hours.
Heat accelerates curing, if you left over mixed paint, and want to use it, add a few drops of thinners and put it in the fridge.
May last up to a few days.
Some say that once mixed paint is made cold and the curing slows down, it will never cure after that.
I reckon this is an old wive's tale, I have done it for years, although the last lot of paint I stored in fridge stunk the fridge out.
Do your own test, when done spraying, put some mixed paint in a shallow dish and keep an eye on it.
Terry NJ
Well-known member
Tell me that's a stagger wing Beech! And a J2 Taylor craft or Piper! There's only about a dozen on the registry and the guy with the tiedown next to me had one.
Terry
Terry
1Tudoor
Senior Member
Sky Raider http://www.h2g2.com/entry/A664832
Hiperlight https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sorrell_Hiperlight
Visiting family in Arvada Co last yr when an orig Stagger Beech flew over head @ about 1500' Wow ! the radial sound & sight had me staggering
scott62
Member
I am a new painter and am learning more than I ever thought I would about panting my 1929 Ford Roadster PU. As you probably know, there is wood 'belt rail' on the rear top of the body (the top sits on it). I have been advised that the wood is "painted body color and can (should) be painted as you spray the body." Ok, I understand that but, is the wood primed with 'wood primer' or 'metal paint primer? If I paint it with the wrong primer, the auto body metal paint might have an adherence problem and if I prime it with metal primer, the wood could have a problem. What is the right primer for wood that Polyurtathane auto paint (base) and clear will adhere to?
Thanks.
Scott
Thanks.
Scott
Terry NJ
Well-known member
Wood! Something I know a little about! I brush coated two coats of urethane on the wood, I would have preferred spar varnish, but I think the urethane will be good enough. Next, I brush coated one, in some places two, coats of Rustoleum satin black. This will be sufficient if we recall that Henry only gave it a quick spray job of lacquer and the wood body frame parts were already assembled in the car. That meant that only the three exposed surfaces were painted. The fourth side and the ends were bare. Some of this wood has lasted
for almost 90 years in all kinds of weather. Go to my profile and look at the album "My A".
Terry
for almost 90 years in all kinds of weather. Go to my profile and look at the album "My A".
Terry
I am a new painter and am learning more than I ever thought I would about panting my 1929 Ford Roadster PU. As you probably know, there is wood 'belt rail' on the rear top of the body (the top sits on it). I have been advised that the wood is "painted body color and can (should) be painted as you spray the body." Ok, I understand that but, is the wood primed with 'wood primer' or 'metal paint primer? If I paint it with the wrong primer, the auto body metal paint might have an adherence problem and if I prime it with metal primer, the wood could have a problem. What is the right primer for wood that Polyurtathane auto paint (base) and clear will adhere to?
Thanks.
Scott