New Popout Cable
- Thread starter Dan Partain
- Start date
Hi dan,
i am not interested in removing my original pop out switch at least yet. I just want to pull it out just far enough to read the key code. So far i managed to remove two of the four screws that hold it in, but i just can,t get to the other two screws if and when i finally slide the switch out just enough to see the key code, i think i will drill some holes in the instrument panel just big enought to get a screw driver through. If the holes are too noticeable, then i will try and find some small chrome sheet metal plugs.
My car has the early oval speedometer do you have any suggestions other than a cutting torch
just a suggestion. Copy down your key code and put it in a safe place. If your key is ever broken off in the lock and you can,t find the handle part, at least you will can have your your locksmith make a new key..
Al?
i am not interested in removing my original pop out switch at least yet. I just want to pull it out just far enough to read the key code. So far i managed to remove two of the four screws that hold it in, but i just can,t get to the other two screws if and when i finally slide the switch out just enough to see the key code, i think i will drill some holes in the instrument panel just big enought to get a screw driver through. If the holes are too noticeable, then i will try and find some small chrome sheet metal plugs.
My car has the early oval speedometer do you have any suggestions other than a cutting torch
just a suggestion. Copy down your key code and put it in a safe place. If your key is ever broken off in the lock and you can,t find the handle part, at least you will can have your your locksmith make a new key..
Al?
Al,
There is only three screws in the panels I looked at and you only need to take one of them
out and just loosen the other two then twist the switch a little. The picture is of a round
speedometer but the oval is the same except the screw on top is the one you need to remove.
Bob
There is only three screws in the panels I looked at and you only need to take one of them
out and just loosen the other two then twist the switch a little. The picture is of a round
speedometer but the oval is the same except the screw on top is the one you need to remove.
Bob
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Dan Partain
Well-known member
Al, I read your original post on this subject. It was suggested that you take the part of the key you have to a locksmith or hardware store and have them make a duplicate key for you. I wouldn't bother trying to take the popout out of the instrument panel if you only need a key.
Take the piece you have to the hardware store and tell them to use an Ilco blank B2 H1098M (or equivalent). I have done this myself with a broken key, it is easy...
If you are determined to take your popout out of the instrument panel, remove the speedometer cable so you have a little more room and flexability to work. Remove all three screws and pry between the instrument panel and the rear of the switch where the cable comes in.
If you can't get to the screws, remove the speedometer, I hope you are kidding about drilling holes in the instrument panel.
Take the piece you have to the hardware store and tell them to use an Ilco blank B2 H1098M (or equivalent). I have done this myself with a broken key, it is easy...
If you are determined to take your popout out of the instrument panel, remove the speedometer cable so you have a little more room and flexability to work. Remove all three screws and pry between the instrument panel and the rear of the switch where the cable comes in.
If you can't get to the screws, remove the speedometer, I hope you are kidding about drilling holes in the instrument panel.
Dan Partain
Well-known member
Has anyone had one of these apart, or do you all send them to someone to be repaired?
jr-41ford
Senior Member
I took apart the one in my 28 Roadster last year. Had it all apart, cleaned it and put it back together, very simple job.
Disconnect the battery first.
Dan Partain
Well-known member
Did you replace, or take apart, the cable from the switch body?
Dan Partain
Well-known member
OK, thanks guys!
-DAN
-DAN
Richard Redmond
Senior Member
I recently replaced my repro ignition switch with an electrolock pop-out for my 29 Roadster. I've also had the instrument panel off several times to replace the ammeter, speedo cable etc. etc.
IMO removing the instrument panel and trying to access the switch, speedo, wires etc. is a real pain!
I've come to the conclusion that it is much better (and in the long run faster and less painful) to do the following -
Disconnect or isolate the battery (as already mentioned above)
Drain the engine water (see next step)
Release the armoured cable clamp from the cylinder head and then replace the stud nut and retorque (if not, the cylinder gasket may leak)
Remove the distributor from the head, unscrew it from the static armoured cable and take off the junction box cover on the firewall
Unclamp the speedo cable from the firewall and chassis frame.
Put gear shift into 1st or 3rd.
Undo the 4 instrument panel screens and ease the instrument panel back, gently dragging the speedo cable through the grommet in the tunnel.
Am I right or am I right?
There are several pop-out articles in Volume 5 of 'How to Restore Your Model A' including an article - restoration of the armoured ignition cable.
IMO removing the instrument panel and trying to access the switch, speedo, wires etc. is a real pain!
I've come to the conclusion that it is much better (and in the long run faster and less painful) to do the following -
Disconnect or isolate the battery (as already mentioned above)
Drain the engine water (see next step)
Release the armoured cable clamp from the cylinder head and then replace the stud nut and retorque (if not, the cylinder gasket may leak)
Remove the distributor from the head, unscrew it from the static armoured cable and take off the junction box cover on the firewall
Unclamp the speedo cable from the firewall and chassis frame.
Put gear shift into 1st or 3rd.
Undo the 4 instrument panel screens and ease the instrument panel back, gently dragging the speedo cable through the grommet in the tunnel.
Am I right or am I right?
There are several pop-out articles in Volume 5 of 'How to Restore Your Model A' including an article - restoration of the armoured ignition cable.
gunmetal blue
Senior Member
Dan Partain
Well-known member
Thanks for the info.
How did you get the old cable out?
What does it look like inside the casting where the cable inserts?
How did you get the old cable out?
What does it look like inside the casting where the cable inserts?
sonny30coupe
Senior Member
But how do you un-pinch it?
Richard Redmond
Senior Member
Dan - I assume you want to renew the inner electrical cable and not the outer armoured part.
You really want the Vol 5 'How to Restore ...' book with its articles. For a 30 -31 Electrolock - I quote ' the back steel cover must be removed to rewire the cable.... Grind, file or bend the crimped areas holding on the back cover. Using a thin punch, insert into small opening past fibre plate and tap back cover off.'
If you are trying to disconnect the outer armour I would try to gently squeeze in a vice and 'unscrew' the wire outer cable from the pinch.
You really want the Vol 5 'How to Restore ...' book with its articles. For a 30 -31 Electrolock - I quote ' the back steel cover must be removed to rewire the cable.... Grind, file or bend the crimped areas holding on the back cover. Using a thin punch, insert into small opening past fibre plate and tap back cover off.'
If you are trying to disconnect the outer armour I would try to gently squeeze in a vice and 'unscrew' the wire outer cable from the pinch.
Marco Tahtaras
Well-known member
Judging by the responses there sure seems to be some confusion here!
I've always assume the '28 to mid'30 cable was a light press fit into the die-cast housing. I've only done a few. I've always been able to twist the upper sleeve and work it out of the housing. It's advisable to scribe an alignment mark on both parts for orientation, especially if it has the fixed position forged clamp. Your pic gives the impression your intent is to replace the cable with a repro instead of rewiring the original. If so, pass the original onto someone in need of one to restore.
That only applies to those used from June 1930 to end of production (round speedometer).
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Are you asking about the cable used with the round speedometer? Dan has pictured the earlier oval speedometer type popout switch, and for that I would follow Marco's advice just given. 
These 3 pictures show the later popout used with the round speedometer. I replaced the inner wire but kept all the other original parts. I used a small pointed diamond grinding bit in my Dremel to remove the upsets on the distributor end so I could pull the contact, spring, insulator and wire out of the housing. I soldered on a new wire to the brass contact then pushed the wire through the cable and soldered it to the switch head as pictured.
I don't think I have any pictures of the oval speedometer popout that I repaired. If you don't feel comfortable doing this repair, there are a few guys that work on them.
Dan Partain
Well-known member
Thanks for everyone's replies.
Yes, it is a 28-30 popout switch. The armored cable has been kinked, stretched, and is bent so that's the reason for using the repro. If the original was usable I would rewire the cable instead of replacing it.
From Marco -
"a light press fit into the die-cast housing"
This is pretty much what I've been looking for. If it's just a light press fit then I will put the cable in a vise and see if I can work the housing off. I'll be sure to mark it first.
If anyone has an original cable for sale that is in good shape let me know, I always prefer to use original if possible.
Yes, it is a 28-30 popout switch. The armored cable has been kinked, stretched, and is bent so that's the reason for using the repro. If the original was usable I would rewire the cable instead of replacing it.
From Marco -
"a light press fit into the die-cast housing"
This is pretty much what I've been looking for. If it's just a light press fit then I will put the cable in a vise and see if I can work the housing off. I'll be sure to mark it first.
If anyone has an original cable for sale that is in good shape let me know, I always prefer to use original if possible.
Dale G.
Senior Member
Send your unit to John Holland, 330-483-3896. He can replace the cable, put a new wire in it, or just anything you want done to it. You must tell him if you want your original plated cap with the number on it replated or replaced. This is the part where the key goes in. Also if you want your original keys replated, he can do that. Also can make extra keys with original style blanks.