New or recored Radiator ?

Gary Gregory

Senior Member
Going to get a better radiator for my 30' coupe. Looking at Bergs recored radiator just lke original and the new 8 and 10 fin style from folks like Snyders, Mikes & Brassworks. The recored radiators are about $100 or so cheaper and would prob fit better. Would I be better off staying with a new recore ? I'm thinking the 8 or 10 fin would be a way better at cooling the engine in our 90+ degree summertime weather.
 
I just bought a new core for mine. I used the same top and bottom tanks and frame just new fins and cores. This way the shrould would fit as the holes were still in the same places. I got the 9 fins per inch as it was only about an extra 30 bucks.

Mike
 
as was stated in another post they use your old top and bottom tanks on a new recore, if your tanks are in good condition save the bucks for some other fix, a dollar saved is a dollar earned
 
I prefer to recore, using original tanks and side panels. The repro tanks and side panels are sub standard, and the radiator is not as sturdy as an original. I have tried them all, and for my experience, the recore is the best answer.
 
I agree a recored radiator would be the best fit. I just want to be sure I get the most for the money. My Radiator was recored about 7 years ago and now it gets hot if I get her past 30-35. I ran some degreaser through it and got a lot of nasty stuff out but it stll runs hot. I may contact Bergs to see if they offer a 8 fin core.
 
Recore.

saw Berg's radiators at French Lick, they looked GREAT!

If I could not find a solid usable original, Berg would be my next choice.......
 
I exchanged my radiator for a recored bigger radiator at Bert's in Denver. It is thicker (You can tell I know a lot about radiators) than my old one and Steve at Bert's says it will not go over 180 degrees. So far it has worked well. Had a little adjusting to do to get it in but with a few of the brackets rebent a bit, it went right in.
 
Thanks for all the input guys! I'm leaning toward a recore from Bergs...but i do like the idea of having one of the 8 or 10 fins from one of those other dealers.
 
I have been buying 28/29 cores from Bergs for almost 40 years without one problem at all.
I know someone who bought one of the 30-31 recores at French Lick and he is thrilled!
I have one on order now from Gary Berg.
Yes, as said in previous replys, I like the old tanks and sides as they are strong and fit well,
Ken:)
 
Clarification, please: I've read a lot of good reports and glowing customer comments on Brass Works new radiators lately on the Barn. Now, on this thread, I'm hearing about staying away from new reproduction radiators - materials and construction are inferior to originals, etc.

Isn't the Brass works radiator a "new repro?" And isn't it supposed to be made of the best materials, to the original thicknesses, specs and construction methods, etc.?

I'm not clear, then, on why someone would pass up the Brass Works unit and all of its fresh, new materials and great construction for a re-cored original where you'd still have the old worn, corroded, dinged, residue-coated tube walls - and loose fin-to-tube connections(?), etc.

Straighten me out on something: Doesn't the "rodding" process involve pushing metal rods, of the largest possible diameter, through each tube to "clean out" the tube I.D. and remove all of the accumulated, caked-on debris? If that's all it is, then you're simply "poking a hole" through the clogs and debris. You're NOT thoroughly "scrubbing" the tube walls really clean down to the bare metal everywhere - are you?? So, there will still be some impediment to optimum heat transfer compared to new tubes because of the remaining residue on the tube I.D. walls. And you could still have undetected very thin worn, corroded wall areas that just haven't broken through yet.

For a couple hundred extra bucks, it seems that the best investment for your time, money and radiator performance would be the new radiator (If it is up to the quality level that I hear the Brass Works ones are).

Is my reasoning and understanding of what "rodding" does incorrect? And what wall-thicknesses do you know you're actually getting in an original radiator that's simply been "resussitated" by rodding?

If immediate cost is the central issue then go for the rodded original. But be prepared to possibly be changing out a radiator again sooner than you would if you'd gone with the well-built new unit in the first place.

Thanks,

Earle
 
Excuse me, Gents. I've intermixed the terms "re-cored" and "rodded".

I woul;d agree,that if you can get a new core made to the same quality specs as maybe Brass Works? - and the removal and re-attachment of your original tanks is done with the best workmanship, that's cool (no punn intended). - if you're certain that your tanks are in very good shape.

But rodding still, to me, seems to be a temporary band-aid still leaving you with less-than-perfectly-clean tubes and all your old materials.

Earle
 
You also run the risk when rodding a core, if original 28-29 radiator, as the tubes are seamed, could leak on one or more tubes and the only way to correct is plugging off the leaking tibes at the top and bottom; results, less cooling.

Ron

Note: the new Brass Works 30-31 10 fin Radiator has a problem with the neck, ie, a original 30-31 cap will not fit, had to use a replacement or try to modify the neck which I didn't want to do. My replacement Quail motormeter would also not fit.
 
Clarification, please: I've read a lot of good reports and glowing customer comments on Brass Works new radiators lately on the Barn. Now, on this thread, I'm hearing about staying away from new reproduction radiators - materials and construction are inferior to originals, etc.

If you have read the posts you will aso see that there have been complaints about Brassworks as well. So much so that they were compelled to post here as well to quiet the complaints.

Isn't the Brass works radiator a "new repro?" And isn't it supposed to be made of the best materials, to the original thicknesses, specs and construction methods, etc.?

Yes it's a new repro and yes it's SUPPOSED to be made of the best..... But is it? if made to original specs the original cap would fit. What else is not correct, we don't know.

I'm not clear, then, on why someone would pass up the Brass Works unit and all of its fresh, new materials and great construction for a re-cored original where you'd still have the old worn, corroded, dinged, residue-coated tube walls - and loose fin-to-tube connections(?), etc.

As mentioned above some have questions about the "great construction" and fit of original parts onto the radiator. As for "worn, corroded, dinged ....", a recore replaces the entire core, all the fins, and uses the top and bottom tanks of the original, for hundreds less.

"Straighten me out on something: Doesn't the "rodding" process involve pushing metal rods, of the largest possible diameter, through each tube to "clean out" the tube..."

That, along with a chemical bath should get you back to clean metal and you will still have your show radiator intact.
 
If you have good top and bottom tanks and sides, have a new heavy duty core, 10 fins to the inch, installed. Take your radiator shell so the shop can be sure everything lines up properly. If your sides are original I believe a the new core can be ordered that have the fins relieved for the indent.

The radiator I replaced, due to a broken fan blade, was an original that had been recored with 10 fins to the inch. It was much heaver than the new Brassworks radiator I just installed.
 
I like the idea of a new Brassworks but I don't want to buy something brand new and have to spend a week trying to make everything fit. With a recore from Bergs the most important part...the core is new. You also don't have worry about everythng not fitting when you install.
 
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