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ya, u need to join the local club, u need to get some books, and u need to almost forget everything u already know mechanically until you get the jist of the engineering on an A or any vintage vehicle. They did things differently back then. For example the ignition wiring will throw u a curve every time.

Lots of good resources here on the Barn, welcome and good luck!
 
Thanks for all the info. After years of hanging out with car nuts and going to car shows and hearing how the guys that build the "Stockers" (Is that a good word?) Are a tight knit group of people full of knowledge and know-how who are more then willing to share it with you, I am finding that to be true.
Now @ marco I actually live in the Altamont, Right down the road from the speedway on Midway Rd. so we are almost neighbors. Maybe one day (after the rain stops) I will fire her up, Head to Livermore, (Via the old road) And we can hook up, BS for a bit and maybe I could get some first hand advice from you.
@ Duffy 1 not that it's a major deal, But I know there are somethings that can be changed (mostly for safty) and not remove it from the "Original" classification. I do plan on taking it to a few shows this year, and am trying to keep her as original as possible But.... Having the fan come apart would be a real bad thing. )-:
And at those who suggested I join a club, I have kinda been looking in to it, But have a lot going on right now , down the road I'm sure I will.
Again Thanks
 
The aluminum repro. two blade fan looks just like the original fan . They are accepted by the judging standards.
 
already did. (o: I have every intention to keep it as original. I did put the brake equalizer floaters on, Stops a lot better, Not like modern power brakes, But a lot better. The fan is going to be changed as per Duffy 1's suggestion. The thought of it coming apart just kinda scares the heck out me, because with my luck it would be the one time I take the farthest trip from home, the only spot where AT&T has no service, destroy the hood ect. I have Hagerty, so I have towing, But would rather not use it if you know what I mean (-;
Now back to the orignal inquiry, I still have now idea how to line the doors. I guess the part I don't get is, If I need to "Pull" the back down to get the door to move down (The back door has to cmoe down and the front one needs to go up) and the body is sitting on the frame...Do I need to shim the whole body up first. I checked out the link Marco posted and it is the same one I already had, But again I can not remove shim to get it to come down if there is none to remove? I got some shim's from Mac's, But they are metal. Should they be rubber?
I have found that just about every thing I have learned about working on car's/Truck's for all these year's ain't helping much LOL. I knew it was going to be a challenge and I'm not going to give up till I get it right. She runs good and I'm going to drive her as much as I can. Even if the door's don't line up right (o;
 
The shims should be rubber. The one the vendors sell, according to the experts, are too soft. I got some "stuff" from a plumbing house and it worked great Sorry, have no name for it. If your shims are original they are probably mashed too thin and tacked to the body wood. You are going to have to raise the body a couple of inches so you can add or subtract shims as needed. Do one side at a time and you cold spend a whole day getting it. If the frame has a sag all bets are off. Don't forget to unhooh the gas line and the steering column brace. Good luck

Sewall Tyler, who knows just enough to be dangerous!
 
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