New member, new owner, 1941 pickup with driveability issues

504d

504d

Member
I just picked this truck up recently from my brother, who bought it at auction 2 years ago, and then just let it sit (no comment). It's had a lot of work done on it - there's a whole book of receipts. But I'm having trouble getting it drivable. Admittedly, I don't know what drivability to expect. I've never owned anything older than the late 50s.

It has a flathead V8 and a 4-speed, and seems original-ish, not hot-rodded. I've gotten it running, new battery and cables, changed fluids and lubed, and repaired a few incidentals.

But driving around the block is challenging, worse than just my limited double clutching experience. It's very jerky in gear. It lunges with just a bit of throttle. It seems impossible to just smoothly and slowly accelerate or maintain a speed. It also surges at idle, but the effect is less severe Btw, it has a new electric fuel pump. The previous was leaking. I'm told it has a 2-barrel carb, but haven't verified.

My guess is I have a carb issue, but thought I'd seek advice before tearing into it.

Thanks,
Steve Ford
Wilmington, Delaware
 

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3 speed transmission is original. How about a couple photos of the engine. Original carburetors are sensitive to fuel pressure 2 to 2.5 many electric fuel pumps are much higher in pressure.
 
Hi, welcome to the FordBarn. Curious if you have a fuel pressure regulator or
is your new fuel pump limited to put out only about 2 to 2 1/2 pounds of pressure ?
If your fuel pump is putting out more than 2 1/2 pounds, then get a regulator.;)





.
 
I bought an AIRTEX E8016S, which I thought was low pressure, but there is no regulator. My 41 brochure lists 4-speed as an option on this model. Engine pics attached.
 

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I would clean the carb, connect the mechanical pump to supply fuel and use the electric pump to prime after the truck has set for a period fo time. Try that,
 
Don't know why this focus on fuel pressure.
So long as the fuel bowl is being filled and held at design level the fuel pressure makes little if any difference.
The setting and condition of the accelerator pump is just one thing that can lead to drive-ability issues.
 
34PKUP said:
Don't know why this focus on fuel pressure.
So long as the fuel bowl is being filled and held at design level the fuel pressure makes little if any difference.
The setting and condition of the accelerator pump is just one thing that can lead to drive-ability issues.
Click to expand...

You must have cut class the day they talked about too high of a fuel pressure being able to override the ability of the needle and seat to control and regulate fuel LEVEL in the bowl. DD
.
 
You say 4 speed and double de clutching . Sounds like a big heavy truck 4 speed. If so that would not be particularly pleasant to shift. Does it have a torque tube drive shaft ?
 
V8COOPMAN said:
You must have cut class the day they talked about too high of a fuel pressure being able to override the ability of the needle and seat to control and regulate fuel LEVEL in the bowl. DD
.
Click to expand...
Suggest you read my post that says "being filled and held at design level"
 
If the truck sat for a long time you might want to bite the bullet and send the carb and fuel pump to CharlieNY here on the barn. Your pump and carb will come back like new. Since you don't have 10 posts you're restricted in being able to use PM's. But here is his contact info:
Charlie Schwendler
716-662-9159
cas5845@yahoo.com
In the past he has had computer issues so a phone call might be best.
 
Start simple.
If we can cure the rough idle, there is a pretty good chance the drivability will improve. Surging could be ignition, but is most likely fuel/carb related. Could be getting fuel too high in the carb (flooding), or two low (starving).
Your pump puts out 3 - 5 psi; at 5 psi it will probably flood the carb as 4 psi is the recommended limit for the float valve in your Holly 94 carb.
1) Disconnect the electric power to the pump and see if the surge at idle smooths out. There are lower psi pumps available. The Mr Gasket 42s puts out 2.5 psi, which is ideal. (12 volt)
2) With the electric fuel pump disconnected and the IGNITION OFF, disconnect the copper fuel line from the mechanical pump to the carb, at the carb. Then crank the engine to see how the mechanical pump is working; it should squirt out nearly a tablespoon of gas with each cycle (which you should try to catch in a cup). If the mechanical pump is working okay, re-attach the fuel line (not too tight) and try running on just the mechanical pump.
3) Before you reconnect the fuel line to the carb squirt some carb cleaner into the fitting on the carb, just in case the needle valve has debris or gum on it.

After trying these steps, report back and if necessary, we can move on to the next diagnosis.
 
Nice truck! I'll try to be polite, but your brother must be some kinda kook to leave that sit for 2 years ! Glad you will show him up and put it on the road.
 
Upon closer inspection I see that the mechanical pump is completely bypassed. But you can still try to run it with the electric fuel pump turned off to see if it smooths out (before it dies completely from fuel starvation).
 
drolston said:
Upon closer inspection I see that the mechanical pump is completely bypassed. But you can still try to run it with the electric fuel pump turned off to see if it smooths out (before it dies completely from fuel starvation).
Click to expand...
Yeah. I'm sure that pump hasn't worked for a long time. The electric pump I replaced was old and rusted out. But thanks everyone for the ideas. I'll start trying them out tomorrow, easiest first. My initial goal is to be able to drive it to the DMV, but right now I won't leave the neighborhood.

Steve
 
I also suggest you ditch the small air cleaner. They are cute, but proven to not flow enough air thru them for a happy motor. I have a 41 pu also, but sadly, mine is a wreck!
 
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