Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
I second the suggestion. Go to: https://shop.efv8.org/collections/ford-books/products/1941-1948-ford-book-softbound
Charlie Stephens
New Member New car
- Thread starter Fordguy1964
- Start date
Charlie Stephens
Frank Miller
Well-known member
You guys disappoint me.
Fordguy 64 if you have time this weekend or even week the central meet will be at the museum in auburn Indiana. You are less than 4 hours and you will learn more about your car than you could imagine. There will be a bunch of us at the Portland tractor show on Saturday. All cars will be out for the concourse on Monday. There will probably be people around on Sunday. Here is a link to the events.
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/images/eventDocs/event_71/2019_CNM_Info_Package_Rev071419.pdf
Fordguy 64 if you have time this weekend or even week the central meet will be at the museum in auburn Indiana. You are less than 4 hours and you will learn more about your car than you could imagine. There will be a bunch of us at the Portland tractor show on Saturday. All cars will be out for the concourse on Monday. There will probably be people around on Sunday. Here is a link to the events.
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/images/eventDocs/event_71/2019_CNM_Info_Package_Rev071419.pdf
Seth Swoboda
Well-known member
Great point Frank. Please drop in and visit all of us at the meet in Auburn.
Fordguy1964
Member
WOW! I wish that I had known about this. I am the maintenance supervisor at a factory and work 6 days a week. I need more advance notice in order to get time off. I just finished with the Fairlane Nationals last month and am getting ready for my local club show the first weekend in October here in the Cincinnati area. It is called the Pumpkin Run. You all are welcome to come and check it out. We had over 2500 cars last year and if the weather holds out for us we expect about the same this year. All of these events I have to plan for months in advance. It sucks but it puts food on the table and lets me "afford to Ford".
Sod Buster
Senior Member
You might want to add some oil to the fan and a drop or two in the generator oil port.
Charlie ny
BANNED
Fordguy,
If not already mentioned get acquainted with VanPelt Sales in Batavia Ohio
513 724 9486.......www.vanpeltsales.com......get the catalog.....hard parts for the drivetrain. For trim and sheet metal there is none better than Mark Kicsak near
Binghamton, N.Y...........vkicsak@hotmail.com. Mark knows where to get what he
may not have on hand, strictly '41 to '48.
Charlie ny
If not already mentioned get acquainted with VanPelt Sales in Batavia Ohio
513 724 9486.......www.vanpeltsales.com......get the catalog.....hard parts for the drivetrain. For trim and sheet metal there is none better than Mark Kicsak near
Binghamton, N.Y...........vkicsak@hotmail.com. Mark knows where to get what he
may not have on hand, strictly '41 to '48.
Charlie ny
Fordguy1964
Member
OK... Once again you'll have to excuse my ignorance. I am 10 times as smart today about flatheads than I was yesterday. Yesterday I was a blooming idiot today I can tie my shoes. I understand the oil port in the generator. "Add some oil to the fan" has me at a loss. Additionally, I am at a loss as to the purpose of what appears to be an oil canister on top of the driver's side head. Am I supposed to fill this with oil? The engine oil dipstick shows oil at the proper level.
I also am posting a couple other pictures I have questions about. Is this the correct way that the hearer core hose is supposed to hook up? It looks a little cobbled up to me.
What is the deal with this push bar thing? It doesn't seem strong enough for anything. What is its purpose? Should it even be there or is it part of something else?
Thanks!
I also am posting a couple other pictures I have questions about. Is this the correct way that the hearer core hose is supposed to hook up? It looks a little cobbled up to me.
What is the deal with this push bar thing? It doesn't seem strong enough for anything. What is its purpose? Should it even be there or is it part of something else?
Thanks!
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Fordguy1964
Member
tubman
Well-known member
The heater hose looks fine to me, the worm drive clamp, not so much. The original clamps are quite different. The "oil canister on top" is the by-pass oil filter. There is a filter element inside that can be changed. They are not hard to find, as they are still used on some tractors, and there are still a lot of old Fords out there. You can probably get one at your FLAPS. They are easy to change because of their position so high on the engine. You should however, consider removing the remaining dirty oil from the canister when changing the oil. A cheap turkey baster helps with this. The "push bar" is a grille guard. It won't protect the grille during a head-on collision (nothing will), but it will do a lot to help protect that fragile cast grille from minor mishaps. You'll be glad you have it.
I mentioned the filter is a "bypass" type. This differs from "full-flow" filters used on modern cars in that it diverts a small percentage (5-10%) of the oil from the oil pump to be filtered. It does this because there is a restrictor in the fitting on the input line. Some folks recommend converting to a more modern system; I am not one of them. A bypass filter filters out finer particles than a "full-flow", and to my mind is superior to them given the nature of use these cars get. Back in the day, they were constantly driven on dirt roads while today they probably will never see one. One of the members here did a test and found that all of the oil in the engine will pass through the filter in around 10 minutes. Like the old saying says "slow and steady wins the race". Plus the oil and filter in these cars get changed quite frequently, which also contributes to the cleanliness of the oil in the vehicle.
If you want more information, ask about using detergent vs. non-detergent oil. That's a whole different subject. BTW, I would strongly advise against using non-detergent oil just because it's an "old car".
I mentioned the filter is a "bypass" type. This differs from "full-flow" filters used on modern cars in that it diverts a small percentage (5-10%) of the oil from the oil pump to be filtered. It does this because there is a restrictor in the fitting on the input line. Some folks recommend converting to a more modern system; I am not one of them. A bypass filter filters out finer particles than a "full-flow", and to my mind is superior to them given the nature of use these cars get. Back in the day, they were constantly driven on dirt roads while today they probably will never see one. One of the members here did a test and found that all of the oil in the engine will pass through the filter in around 10 minutes. Like the old saying says "slow and steady wins the race". Plus the oil and filter in these cars get changed quite frequently, which also contributes to the cleanliness of the oil in the vehicle.
If you want more information, ask about using detergent vs. non-detergent oil. That's a whole different subject. BTW, I would strongly advise against using non-detergent oil just because it's an "old car".
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JSeery
Member Emeritus
Fan: It depends on the fan assembly, some have a oil port on the bearing hub.
Thing on the head is a by-pass oil filter systems. The only time it needs to be opened up is to change the oil filter. A by-pass filter system bleeds off a percentage of the oil and runs it through the filter and then returns it to the oil pan. There is a restrictor (0.060) in the line to limit the amount of oil that passes through the filter. Odd as it might seem, this is a very effective filter system.
Heater hose: That is how the heater hoses are connected on these years of vehicles.
Thing on the head is a by-pass oil filter systems. The only time it needs to be opened up is to change the oil filter. A by-pass filter system bleeds off a percentage of the oil and runs it through the filter and then returns it to the oil pan. There is a restrictor (0.060) in the line to limit the amount of oil that passes through the filter. Odd as it might seem, this is a very effective filter system.
Heater hose: That is how the heater hoses are connected on these years of vehicles.
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Fordguy1964
Member
Fordguy1964
Member
I cleaned the points of the regulator last night and still no charge. I think maybe I need to "flash" the generator. I have never had to do this before but I am guessing that it is simply a matter of momentarily touching the FIELD terminal on the generator to the NEGATIVE terminal on the battery. Correct?
JSeery
Member Emeritus
See if this helps any: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250733&highlight=flash+generator
"The old term was "flash the Field". Fords are different than some about the way they are polarized but all have the same basic principle. On the Ford specific, the F field wire, should be disconnected from the F terminal and momentarily touched to the B battery terminal (no more than 3 seconds). What this does is remagnitize the field pole shoes. The residual magnetism in those pole shoes is what gives the energy to make the cut out pole switch close and bring the generator on line once the engine is started.
It's a bit more complicated on the older 3 brush generators and some of the early 2-brush units but this procedure works for most of the two brush types of the flathead era as long as they have the three pole voltage regulator.
Definitley take the others' advice on charging the battery first. The generator only puts out around 30 to 35 amps depending on model. If it has to put out 20 to 25 amps to try and charge a dead battery then it will be very hard on battery and generator alike. It could also damage the voltage regulator. They don't mind recharging one that's run down a bit but a completely dead one is very risky."
"A circuit, reg will read l- R , B A F, use a jumper from armature post to battery
B circuit, reg will read B F A, unhook field & touch to battery post quickly to polarize generator."
"The A circuit type generators and previously mentioned in post #14, had the field grounded through the voltage regulator unit. There is a connection to armature on these so A to B jumper is used on the regulator for those.
The B circuit type generators have the field internally grounded so they require the F terminal wire be isolated from the regulator then touched to the battery terminal.
Ford used mostly B circuit types where GM used mostly A circuit types. This is where it pays to get a service manual for the type of vehicle you own so as to get the correct information for it."
"The important thing is the field is in the middle on B circuits and armature in the middle on A circuits."
Note: These quotes are from different people in the referenced link.
"The old term was "flash the Field". Fords are different than some about the way they are polarized but all have the same basic principle. On the Ford specific, the F field wire, should be disconnected from the F terminal and momentarily touched to the B battery terminal (no more than 3 seconds). What this does is remagnitize the field pole shoes. The residual magnetism in those pole shoes is what gives the energy to make the cut out pole switch close and bring the generator on line once the engine is started.
It's a bit more complicated on the older 3 brush generators and some of the early 2-brush units but this procedure works for most of the two brush types of the flathead era as long as they have the three pole voltage regulator.
Definitley take the others' advice on charging the battery first. The generator only puts out around 30 to 35 amps depending on model. If it has to put out 20 to 25 amps to try and charge a dead battery then it will be very hard on battery and generator alike. It could also damage the voltage regulator. They don't mind recharging one that's run down a bit but a completely dead one is very risky."
"A circuit, reg will read l- R , B A F, use a jumper from armature post to battery
B circuit, reg will read B F A, unhook field & touch to battery post quickly to polarize generator."
"The A circuit type generators and previously mentioned in post #14, had the field grounded through the voltage regulator unit. There is a connection to armature on these so A to B jumper is used on the regulator for those.
The B circuit type generators have the field internally grounded so they require the F terminal wire be isolated from the regulator then touched to the battery terminal.
Ford used mostly B circuit types where GM used mostly A circuit types. This is where it pays to get a service manual for the type of vehicle you own so as to get the correct information for it."
"The important thing is the field is in the middle on B circuits and armature in the middle on A circuits."
Note: These quotes are from different people in the referenced link.
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Fordguy1964
Member
I have found info on youtube, which of course is not always correct, about applying voltage to a generator and that will have it act as a motor. They said in their video that if this works then the generator is good. I don't want to cause damage trying this. Is this a definite test or should I avoid it?
I am currently looking for a source of a maintenance manual for my 41.
I am currently looking for a source of a maintenance manual for my 41.
tubman
Well-known member
When they were new, most of these cars had no heaters or gasoline heaters (!!) The later 8BA water pumps had a provision for a hose fitting, but I think some of the early pumps did not. This was a common way to utilize an accessory hot-water heater.
Darrell S
Senior Member
Very nice looking car, you will enjoy it. Those lower hose heater hose connections are available from most of the early ford suppliers if you should need new hoses. You will come to know lots of these suppliers as you work on your 41. There is a wealth of old timers to help you out here as I have found out.
Fordguy1964
Member
I am guessing in this quote they MUST mean at the REGULATOR not at the Generator. Unless they mean remove the wire from the field and JUMPER from the bat to the field terminal on the generator.
Am I correct in that thinking. I read the thread you referenced. Thank you. It makes me wish I had a computer in my garage where I can read your responses and look at the car at the same time.
Thanks all! I'm loving the hands on nature of this thing. It seems that with just a small amount of tools a guy can really maintain these cars themselves... which I really like!
JSeery
Member Emeritus
Think you are confusing yourself. Everything is about the terminals on the voltage regulator and the wires that connect to the terminals. Not at the battery or the generator. I'm sure there are ways to do it at other locations (such as the generator), but the thread was about the voltage regulator.