New member, first Ford project

[m610]

That short day turned out to be not so short. It turned out I needed to remove the clevis and jam nut for the brake rods back at the rear brakes so I could get the anti-rattler on. That took some effort, and time, but I managed to get them off without breaking anything.

The car is off the lift now so that the upholstery can be patched. After that it does to a shop that will take care of rust damage that prevents us from mounting the running boards.

The rear anti-rattlers in the catalogs did not match what was on the car.

I am done for now, until the owner returns. No I can work on my friend's first-gen Miata. How's that for a contrast in car projects?

 

[Steve in Denver]

When you talk to the radiator shop, be sure to tell them that the EXACT height of the core is important as the hood fastens to the top of the radiator. Speaking from experience, an extra quarter inch and the hood will not close properly and you will not be happy.

Water pumps should just go to Skip in Florida for a proper rebuild!!!

 

[m610]

Here's an update on this project.

The repairs to the fabric headliner are done. A really skilled women, Natalie, accomplished this with a needle and thread. She does great work.

I'm done with the wheels, brakes, fuel system, pretty much everything of the mechanical sort on the chassis. I'm also done with the chassis electrical.

All that is left for me on this is to install the new window glass, replacing the ones that had fogged up and even completely de-laminated.

The engine was overhauled years ago, but has sat and never run. A shop near here will go through it and make sure it is good to go.

The transmission had been rebuilt years ago. The engine guy will install it.

Another shop will handle the relatively minor body work that needs to be done. There is rust that will make reinstalling the running boards impossible, and there is a little rust where the fenders will mount. A minor dent in that area will also be taken care of.

The radio is in South Carolina and that shop will go through it and make sure it works properly and is reliable. The control panel will not be restored. We are keeping the original, somewhat tarnished, look.

The owner travels a lot. His wife is Thai royalty and she and he visit the middle east often, plus she teaches at a university in Japan so they send a far bit of time there. Obviously there is no rush on this project, but it would be nice to get it done.

There was a big car show in Woodland, CA (near me) today and two 5-window '36 Chevys were there, both beautifully restored. Being able to park an authentic, unrestored 5-window Ford of the general type next to them would have been fun.

Mike

 

[m610]

The owner is happy with the chassis. He cleaned it all up and applied Por-15. The body is at another shop, and the engine at yet another. The engine guy should have been done long ago and we are in the process of getting it back and taking it to another guy. It had been rebuilt 45 years ago but never started. We were not able to turn the crank by hand/with a lever, so it went in the get cleaned up.


Meanwhile, we are looking forward to getting it all back together. Our plan at this time is to install the motor, transmission, the whole drive train, before the body goes on. We might even run the engine. That seems doable. Does anyone disagree? Is there a better way?


And still meanwhile, in preparation for the above, we are taking care of numerous little things, and my thing right now is the speedometer cable. The threads on the piece the cable screws on to, on the drive shaft end, has buggered threads. Best I can figure it is a 7/8-18 fitting, but I don't see that anywhere. I measured the thread pitch myself, and a 7/8 bolt more or less fits, but obviously will not screw on.


I'm hoping there is a thread die out there I can use. If not, it will be a tiny file.


Does anyone happen to know what die size I should be looking for?


Mike