new main bolts

murrie

Member
anyone got any way to torque main bearing bolts when socket won't go down far enough on short bolt head?could not find orginal bolts
 
anyone got any way to torque main bearing bolts when socket won't go down far enough on short bolt head?could not find orginal bolts

You might need to post a picture (worth a thousand words) for us (me) to know what you mean.
 
anyone got any way to torque main bearing bolts when socket won't go down far enough on short bolt head?could not find orginal bolts

What brand of 8-point socket are you using? It has been my experience that 12-point sockets generally will not fit well.
 
In order to torque the center nut inside the valve chamber, I use an old fashioned torque wrench that has the long flex 'needle', because it has the smallest head. I then use a socket that I have shortened in my lathe. The others are easy. I do not use castellated nuts as they have only a few full-circle threads, I just oil the threads and contact point at the block and torque them down, using grade 8 or ARP nuts.
 
I like the original square head bolts they are a snug fit in the block and keep the caps centered. I have sockets for the square heads. With your non-original bolts can you use a small spacer under the head of bolt, if bolt is long enough?
 
could not find original bolts.snyders and mike are selling these bolts.i made it work by grinding a socket on a taper,to torque the bolts.post picture later when grandchildren come.
 
For clarity, the Snyder's main bearing bolt kits are grade 8, in lengths to fit both the two forward caps and the rear main cap. They use what appears to be lock-o-seal washers to prevent seepage on top with plain washers under the heads. The nuts are a high profile plain type nut.

I've had similar problems on the Lycoming aircraft engine con rod cap bolt hardware. I had to taper a socket to clear the edges of the cap where they are spot faced. The spot face diameter is not a very large diameter so it interferes with the tool used. The socket used was a standard height Snap On socket. These sockets are about as thin as they get but still too thick. I tried using cheaper sockets but they always cracked under torque. The particular rod bolt I'm referring to, are stretch torqued to proper length so they are tight. No need for a locking feature which is rare in aviation but they have special nuts too.

Original cap bolts are likely out there but a person may not be able to purchase just the bolts. It just depends on who has all the old model A motors laying around for parts.
 
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