New Horns not working

rbassemir

rbassemir

Member
I have ordered a set of horns from Ecklers. When they arrived the left one did not work the right one did. I returned the left one. A new left one arrived and it does not work either. Frustrating!

I called Ecklers again and they said out of 15 shipped only 2 were returned (one was the first horn I returned). They are sending me a shipping label and will send me a fourth horn. They said they would test the horn before they ship it to me.

I'm just wondering if others experienced this issue. Maybe there is a trick to getting them to work the first time, like hit the horn with 12 volts to wake it up. Or maybe they are sending me 12 volt horns instead of 6 volt horns.

I did not try applying 12 volts... I don't want to damage a $240 horn.

Am I just unlucky???
 
The original 35 horn wiring did not use a horn relay. Are you using a relay? There is a reason Ford added the horn relay on later models (38). Did you check the horns with a direct connection to the battery?
 
Yep, A direct connection to the battery and nothing. Did not even sound like it was trying to honk. Doing the same to the right hand horn and I get a good honk.

Using the existing wiring with the "good" horn I barely get any honk. I suspect the old wiring has dirty connections and is dropping voltage. For example, I have 6.5 volts on the horn wires when I hit the horn button. That is 6.5 volts before it is connected to the good horn.

When I connect the good horn and hit the horn button, it drops down to about 2 volts. My conclusion is the resistance in the wire and connections is dropping voltage when the horn draws a lot of amps.

So not only do I new a new horn, I think I need to put in a horn relay and with some 18 gauge wire in the horn circuit to provide a better connection to the battery.

Rich
 
If your not going 100% original, I would add the relay. Sounds like the horns are bad, hopefully the next one will work!
 
I would return those horns and look for authentic ones. I am not sure the replicas have the same sound as the originals? And the replicas cost as much as the originals.
 
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The old horns were mostly adjusted by the amount of current they would draw. The points should be clean and closed with the horn at rest. Adjustment of the points should be done with a good amp meter in the line. The armature has to be free with proper air gap and no metal shavings or other debris in there so the it can move properly. stuff is sometimes picked up on the coil when it is energized. They are a pretty good electromagnet when energized.

A lot of the reproduction crap had plastic parts inside so you never know how reliable they will be or in this case, whether they will even work or not.
 
rbassemir said:
Yep, A direct connection to the battery and nothing. Did not even sound like it was trying to honk. Doing the same to the right hand horn and I get a good honk.

Using the existing wiring with the "good" horn I barely get any honk. I suspect the old wiring has dirty connections and is dropping voltage. For example, I have 6.5 volts on the horn wires when I hit the horn button. That is 6.5 volts before it is connected to the good horn.

When I connect the good horn and hit the horn button, it drops down to about 2 volts. My conclusion is the resistance in the wire and connections is dropping voltage when the horn draws a lot of amps.

So not only do I new a new horn, I think I need to put in a horn relay and with some 18 gauge wire in the horn circuit to provide a better connection to the battery.

Rich
Click to expand...


Rich,
I would suggest that you use 16 gauge wire on the control circuit of the relay and at least 14 gauge wire on the battery circuit of the relay.
 
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