New Hi-Boy Air Filter

TinCup

Well-known member
Has anyone tried this new Air Filter. Logic looks sound get the air breather away from the exhaust.
 

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Nice but a LOT of money in my opinion. Could probably do yourself with a couple pvc fittings and a fernco connector, for a few bucks if you've already got an airmaze. JMO
Paul in CT
 
That Tall boy still looks like it would suck a lot of hot air from that manifold. Isn't that screen basically sitting where the autolite heaters would mount?

I saw one of these on a club car this past Sunday. They are sold in New Zealand at Pearson's. The air filter is moved up much further to the front of the engine. CLICK THIS FOR BETTER PICTURES

Aircleaner%20C5.JPG


MK2.jpg
 
That Tall boy still looks like it would suck a lot of hot air from that manifold. Isn't that screen basically sitting where the autolite heaters would mount?

I saw one of these on a club car this past Sunday. They are sold in New Zealand at Pearson's. The air filter is moved up much further to the front of the engine. CLICK THIS FOR BETTER PICTURES

Aircleaner%20C5.JPG


MK2.jpg

I believe this dude would get in the way of the full-flow oil filter, and, like it, partially block fan breezes keeping the carb cool.

Steve
 
I'm not against air filters or screens, I have an airmaze with the cast elbow. To me, there is just something wrong with plumbing parts under the hood of an A. If I want to see meltable plastic and plumbing fittings I'll look under my sink. Even there I miss the old iron pipe and brass sink traps that I replaced with ABS and PVC years ago. On more than one occasion I dumped a boiling pot of pasta water and had the stuff pop apart. How hot is it next to the exhaust manifold in August? (Up here, not down under!)

What I would like to see is a nice formed sheet metal oil bath job, like some of the "B"'s had. It could have a modern filter inside, but on the outside a proper era look and color (hammer-tone?), and perhaps era looking instructions for servicing an oil bath filter applied via a water transfer decal or by silk-screen. Make it look like an era accessory, not like a trip to the hardware store.
 
I agree with MikeK that probably the best design would be the one Ford came up with! Here is a picture of a Ford oil bath air cleaner off of a 1933 Ford Stake bed.

I think Bruce Lancaster purchased this cleaner.

22026
 

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What's the fear of having the air cleaner too close to the exhaust manifold?

Cooler air has a higher density (greater mass per unit volume). That means more oxygen to the engine and you need O2 and gas to make that engine sing.

Other advantages of cooler air in the combustion engine are increased horsepower and torque as well as improved throttle response and fuel economy in most cases.

Driving home on one 300 mile east Texas driving tour in 103 degree weather, my air maze filter next to the exhaust got so hot, making the cast iron carb so hot that the car kept getting slower and slower and slower. When I put a wrench on the carb, the wrench made a sizzling sound it was so hot. Removed the filter and the car ran much better.

Take a look at the air filter ducting on your modern car some time and you'll notice they do everything to get as much fresh air from the grill as possible into that engine.
 
That proves my meager point Elrod. What I'm seeing here doesn't actually draw in anymore cooler air, pointing up or down, it's on the wrong side of the radiator. Plus, the remaining parts of the A engine are so inefficient that the air density will make a minimal amount of difference. When you're chasing horsepower and elapsed times, that's where it typically makes sense, while you're trying to get that last .2% of extra power.

Fuel economy doesn't increase with cool air, it increases with heat. You're burning the mixture more efficiently when the combustion temps are at an optimum level.

And one last thing, since the intake manifold is connected to the exhaust manifold, any cool air benefits that might be realized by the air intake, and wiped out due to the intentional heating of the intake manifold.

Also, modern cars pull from the inner fender well or core support because modern cars are so tightly packed and operate at a higher temp that they create heat sink, which is detrimental to the performance, so they pull from a cooler source that won't pick up water, not because of fresh air. It's actually considered stale air.
 
The Ford filter shown is the neater of two slightly different heavy duty oil bath filters Ford sold to replace the small dry aircleaner supplied standard on model B and BB's...
All air cleaners are a bit awkward on these thigs, as there is not enough room for a decently sized cleaner in line with the carb throat. Yep, I bought that one. The guy was parting out what seemed to be a really nice '33 BB to build a hotrod from just the cab and grill!! I wanted the engine, but it was in Texas and just seemed impossible to work out.
Now, if you replicated the vertical stack portion of that, and topped it with a moderately large paper filter, say a 9" circle or some sort of longish tubular one, you would have an ugly but very functional air cleaner. With appropriately large quality paper filters, restriction is simply not a concern until the thing is practically caked in dirt.
Oil bath is not as efficient a paper, but is a whole lot better than unrestrained dirt or the screen/old T-shirt filter pack that was standard on the B.
All the B filters are scarce, I think for the same reason as engine side pans...they went flying into the trash can as soon as they first got in the way of a mechanic.
 
I have a Model B filter that was originally (I think) attached to the fire wall. If you're interested in it (I'm not, I use 94 downdraft carb and paper filter), email me. geohawk@q.com.
 
The firewall filter is the earlier version of the HD B-BB filter...similar can, mounts to firewall rather than cylinder head.
Cold air induction is barely a possibility for Model A's or B's if any semblance of original appearance is wanted, as the entire air supply for engine bay has to come through the radiator, with no real room for an air pickup. You probably put in a snorkel running down under the front crossmember, but then you'd be sucking dust right off of the road...
Remember that on any carbureted car used in regular road conditions, cold air induction can become pretty complex; you can see examples on quite a few US vehicles from the '70's--end of carburetors circa 1985. The outside air can be too cool under cold (and especially cold and humid) conditions, so detroit put thermostatic flaps in the inlet system switching air cleaner intake between the cold inlet and one drawn over the exhaust! Carburetors need a lot of catering to keep them running over a very wide range of conditions, and the old way of drawing air from within the engine compartment probably is a decent compromise if you don't want to have to engineer a ducting system with more parts than the rest of the engine! Race cars run only in fair weather and electronically fuel injection is an entirely different can of worms, either not needing compensation or easily compensated by a complex program.
 
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