New guy with question on water pump disassembly

1

19fifty4

Junior Member
Actually several questions…
1) How much force does it take to remove the fan assembly from the shaft? I’ve removed the cotter pin + castle nut and the fan assembly is holding fast. Am I missing something else or can I be less gentle with it.
2) In rebuilding / reassembly, are the packing, bearing felt, and bearing retainer, typically the only items needing replacement to address a leaky pump?
3) I currently have the exhaust manifold & head removed from the block repairing another issue. That work is complete and ready to be reassembled. Should I wait until I have the water pump ready to reinstall in the head before bolting up the head and exhaust? Or can I go ahead and get those items reassembled in the event I need to wait on water pump parts from the supplier.

I have a 29 Special Coupe that is mostly stock/original but it does have a 4 blade fan. I'm using Les Andrews Vol. 1 as my guide but would appreciate some feedback from you guys.
Many Thanks,
 
1) How much force does it take to remove the fan assembly from the shaft? I’ve removed the cotter pin + castle nut and the fan assembly is holding fast. Am I missing something else or can I be less gentle with it.

Turn the nut over, thread it back on until it's about 1/16 of and inch from the fan. Have someone hold the fan by the ends and hit the nut (not the person holding the fan) until it lets loose (the shaft from the fan not the helper dropping the fan).

2) In rebuilding / reassembly, are the packing, bearing felt, and bearing retainer, typically the only items needing replacement to address a leaky pump?

The shaft often is grooved.

3) I currently have the exhaust manifold & head removed from the block repairing another issue. That work is complete and ready to be reassembled. Should I wait until I have the water pump ready to reinstall in the head before bolting up the head and exhaust? Or can I go ahead and get those items reassembled in the event I need to wait on water pump parts from the supplier.

Makes no difference.
 
Don't leave any holes open for the engine, head, or radiator. Mice are very fast home builders.

I prefer to use the nut half on the shaft, then thread a short bolt to the other half, so when you strike the bolt the pressure goes right to the shaft, rather than to the threads. One sharp rap with a hammer should do it, but repeat as needed.

I almost always have to use a new shaft, rear bushing, and lead packing rings with grease smeared on them. This has given me a totally leakess pump for the past 10 years. Even better though is the new rear bushing with a double lip seal in the rear of it. Even the single lip seal will be a good improvement. I don't remember where I bought my bushing with the double lip seal. Smear a bit of grease on the seal also.

I seldom have to replace the front bearing or race, or even the felts and cups.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Don't leave any holes open for the engine, head, or radiator. Mice are very fast home builders.

I prefer to use the nut half on the shaft, then thread a short bolt to the other half, so when you strike the bolt the pressure goes right to the shaft, rather than to the threads. One sharp rap with a hammer should do it, but repeat as needed.

I almost always have to use a new shaft, rear bushing, and lead packing rings with grease smeared on them. This has given me a totally leakess pump for the past 10 years. Even better though is the new rear bushing with a double lip seal in the rear of it. Even the single lip seal will be a good improvement. I don't remember where I bought my bushing with the double lip seal. Smear a bit of grease on the seal also.

I seldom have to replace the front bearing or race, or even the felts and cups.
Click to expand...

Great idea!!!!
 
Very easy to destroy the shaft threads or bend the end of the shaft with an off center "miss-hit" when trying to remove fan. Some like to tape a piece of card board to the back of the radiator, if left in place, to protect the fins when removing/installing a water pump. Be sure to check shaft end play with pump bolted to head before final installation.
 
If you replace the shaft, and buy a pressed on impeller, pin the impeller to the new shaft. also add the front collar that limits the back and forth movement of the shaft.
As tom says lubrication is your friend from now on. learn to take care of the water pump. separates the drivers from the others.
 
Mission accomplished. Thanks for the assistance. The proper amount of persuasion with a well chosen mallet did the trick. Made good progress with disassembly until time to remove roller bearing sleeve from the water pump housing. It and the rear washer, felt, & retainer remain in the housing. Any trick to pushing out the roller bearing sleeve?
 
For the sleeve I used a coat hanger with a short and sharp 90* bend in the end. Put the short bend into the hole and give it a yank. I'm sure you'll find some very old dried grease behind the sleeve.

For a new shaft, you might be as well off to buy one with the impellor already pinned in place. I went to install a good original impellor on a new shaft and as I was pressing it in place the impellor shattered and parts flew with force, so if you try this you might want to wear a full face shield.
 
long screwdriver, or tapered punch from the back side to push out the felt and washer and the sleeve will also come out. either way you are progressing.
Bob
 
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