New guy with a Y block question

thendrix

thendrix

Member
Hi everybody. My name is Tyler. I have a Y block question. I have a 49 Ford F1 and may be getting a 55 Mercury Y block but I want to get some info on this swap before I pull the trigger. Anybody have experience with this? Pics, video, articles, all of it would be greatly appreciated. Also, any why or why nots?

I plan to use a 66 toploader if that has any bearing on your comments.
 
You will have a problem finding a bellhousing to use the 66 trans with a Y block. The toploaders have a different bolt pattern than the older Ford type bellhousings. I have heard that there were some toploaders in 64 with the old T-10 type of bolt pattern that the Y block uses but I don't think your 66 will bolt up.
 
I work in a machine shop and have access to the machines off the clock. Is there enough diffrence in the bolt pattern that the bell housing could be redrilled? Would it be safe to plug the holes and drill the correct bolt pattern?
 
Hi thendrix, welcome. The '49 F1 frame is very similar to my 46 1/2 ton frame, and I am running a 292. I dont know for sure about the '66, but a '64 top loader has the same bolt pattern for the bell. So maybe on the later model. '63 and '64 292 powered F100/F250 came with model 3.03 3 speed all synchro top loaders, which were also found in Mustangs.
 
My '56 Fairlane has a '55 Merc 292 with a toploader out of a '66 Comet Cyclone. Used the existing Y block bellhousing for it.

Trans tag HEH-BV, here's trans and bell pics

Note the trans - has 2 different mounting holes (some don't):


HEHBVtoploader.jpg
​

BellHousing2.jpg
​

This is the 3 spd trans that came out of it:

3spdtrans3.jpg
​
 
Thanks raceron. If I remember correctly, I believe my trans has 8 holes but I will have to look and see. It is out of a 66 Fairlane with a 390
 
I didn't do my install but I think some toploaders had only 4 mounting holes, they may be the later ones, tag # RUG** ? Not sure.

Splines might differ too, and perhaps someone else can advise on possibly having to machine the input shaft to properly accomodate the Yblock/pilot bushing.

Any more info from the real experts on this??

Here's a pic of it mounted in the car:

16Jan20107RS.jpg
 
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car pilot bushing for the y block fits.if the top loader cam from a small block the imput shaft would be to long and would need to be ground off 1/2 inch or so but the big block like the 390 is supposed to be the same.
 
Well here is some good news. It seems my toploader has both bolt patterns like racerons does so, with a little luck, I might be able to use the stock bell housing. Now if I had a top mount shifter..........
 
I did it. If you can get the Dec. 1990 Street Rodder article by Frank Oddo, it explains everything. The part number on my 4-speed Jeep shifter is C-2604208. (At least that is the cast-in number on the top.) Hope this helps and good luck!
 
Oh yeah, just to clarify... I was talking about the top style shifter, not the y-block install (the original topic of the thread)!
 
Here is a pic of the Hurst front moto adapter. I believe it works in you application also. The trans mount will need fabed. My problem was dealing (or not dealing) with the clutch linkage. I think the way to go there is a hydraulic clutch, but dont have much experience with them. The 63-64 truck bells had ears on the DS for hydraulic clutch slave cylinders.
IMG_0944.jpg
 
darrell said:
car pilot bushing for the y block fits.if the top loader came from a small block the imput shaft would be to long and would need to be ground off 1/2 inch or so but the big block like the 390 is supposed to be the same.
Click to expand...
Yup. My trans came from behind a 289 and the input shaft needed to be shortened.
Ron
 
The only thing I can think of is the y block the dist is in back and will have a problem hitting fire wall.
I,m running a 302v8 with auto trans.
picture.php
 
I am replacing my firewall anyway so hopefully I can take care of any clearence issues there. The PO hacked mine up pretty good. Nothing like adding some very large, un-needed holes with, what looks like, a sawzall:mad:. I will have to investigate further but hopefully I can get by with a 2" deeper firewall. There are several places that sell them.
 
46yblock said:
Here is a pic of the Hurst front moto adapter. I believe it works in you application also. The trans mount will need fabed. My problem was dealing (or not dealing) with the clutch linkage. I think the way to go there is a hydraulic clutch, but dont have much experience with them. The 63-64 truck bells had ears on the DS for hydraulic clutch slave cylinders.
IMG_0944.jpg
Click to expand...

Mike, did you buy the Hurst mount, or fab it up yourself. I'm looking for the same. Are they N.O.S. or is someone still making them and selling them. Source? Thanks.

Pete
 
Pete, I bought it NOS from an outfit in Atlanta almost 20 yrs. ago. They come up from time to time on ebay.

Thendrix, the dist. clears the firewall, but barely. Same with the PS valve cover. I used to have Offenhauser covers with fins on the ends as well as the tops. The fins on the end of the PS touched the firewall, so changed to stamped steel. An additional 2 in. would be plenty in both cases.

Two more problems are: Oil filter interference with steering box, and driver side exhaust. I've been using a remote oil filter for quite a while, but am soon going to take it off and use a short spin on, NAPA Gold 1085. The biggest difficulty was with driver side dual exhaust. None of the stock manifolds or aftermarket headers would fit. Ended up having a RamsHorn's flange ground 6 degrees to tilt the manifold outlet inboard, and was barely able to clear steering box, oil press. sender, remote filter adapter, cross steering, pitman arm, etc.

IMG_0945-1.jpg
 
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WOW! That is a DAMN tight fit! Is there a reason why you didn't offset the engine a little to allow more room?

This guy also has an 8BA flattie for the same price. I'm going to look at both. I love the Y block idea but the flattie would be SOOOOO much easier.:cool:
 
46yblock said:
Ended up having a RamsHorn's flange ground 6 degrees to tilt the manifold outlet inboard, and was barely able to clear steering box, oil press. sender, remote filter adapter, cross steering, pitman arm, etc.

IMG_0945-1.jpg
Click to expand...

Another question, does the heat from the manifold effect the steering box in any way?
 
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