New Guy Seeking Advice

Thanks Dave, I had not considered using the screen to catch the initial debris and then removing it after.
 
Here is a link to the screen set up he wants me to use.

http://tefba.com/

Tefba350.gif
 
Install seat belts asap. Drain the gas tank and put one of the screened filters in the shutoff valve. Stick with the original distributor/points system. Put a halogen bulb in the stoplight. Adjust the brakes. Check the water and oil and go.
 
I checked out the site for the Tefba coolant filter. If a coolant filter is installed...this one sure is easy to service. My main objection to a filter in my earlier post was the thought or misunderstanding that it would be hard to check it for obstruction. I was wrong...I'd install it. I would still remove the filter after running the engine for a long enough period to verify the absence of any debris in the filter. I'm suggesting an entire season of clean running. JMO
Good Day!
 
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Hello Big Rix,

To my recollection there is a nice Model A Club right there in Tucson and a couple of those guys post here. I would check around as they should be a wealth of information to help you find places to get things done. Also there is a Model A parts dealer in Chandler, Sam Guthrie, he is a good guy and can help you connect with the guys in Tucson. In the 60's I drove my Model A in Yuma to high school and on to college at ASU. Never once did I have an overheating problem. I guess that original radiator did good! I still have that car and restored it in the 80's for fine point judging, it now has 37,000 miles on it since judging and still going strong. Simple is dependable. Dale Gosa.
 
Some safety items ; Check to see if it has safety glass . How about the fan . Is it original 2 blade .
 
She showed up at my house today.





Fired her right up and backed her in the garage.





Got to work right away and drained the fuel. I don't think the tank is as bad as I thought.





It is now sitting with a couple of gallons on Evapo-Rust in it. We will see how it looks after that.

What really has me concerned is the head gasket. Looks like it is leaking to me. What say you?







 
Nice looking car. Have fun with it.

As far as the head gasket, and I am far from an expert (only worth $.001), but I think I would run it for awhile and see if it leaks more. Unless you are looking for something to do, then go ahead and check it out and change it.

I think I would be more concerned about why the pipe attached to the oil input pipe. Does it smoke, does it have a lot of "blow by" etc.? In other words, why the pipe.
 
I'm such a newb, I didn't even know that new pipe was not stock.

It just ends abruptly by the frame.

I assumed it was a road draft tube for crankcase ventilation.
 
BigRix said:
I'm such a newb, I didn't even know that new pipe was not stock.

It just ends abruptly by the frame.

I assumed it was a road draft tube for crankcase ventilation.
Click to expand...

Again my advise may not be worth much, but my impression was that the tube (the nice black one) was put on the oil filler pipe to carry off fumes or oil that may come out of the pipe. But get someone else advise on this subject first before you get to concerned about it.
 
Model A head gaskets tend to ooze a little, might not be a problem. Once you start it, and get it warmed up, you might gently see if you can re-torque it. I have never met a Model A that did not need re-torquing. For most of us, we torque all but the front 2 nuts to 55 pounds. The front 2 which attach the water neck or water outlet most of us only torque to 50 lbs. The ears on that water neck are prone to breaking off they are so thinly cast. Go easy. There is a pattern in Brattons catalogue. Get catalogues from the major suppliers, they are a wealth of info even if you do not buy anything.

The original fans are very very prone to cracking and having a blade sent into orbit. This disturbing feature has resulted in hoods and radiators being sliced open, hands and arms being cut off, and death. Change it if original. A modern aluminum 2 blade fan will be all one piece, with no visible gap between the blades and the pulley. There are pix on this forum.

Off the top of my head the systems which are not in synch with the modern day world of the chevy 350 are:
1.Ignition wiring (very diff than what you are accustomed to)
2.That darned fan blade. If orig., Do NOT trust it or weld it. Throw it away
3. Method of timing
4. Use of generator 3rd brush
5. learning the tricks of the Zenith carb. Of course, all carbs, even rochesters, have their quirks
6. mechanical brakes

All this stuff is covered here on the barn and in Les Andrews books. You wouldn't work on a 2014 Silverado without a factory manual, why would a Model A be any different.

Good luck and post as often as needed.
 
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I'd bet most of the rust pits on the exhaust manifold and right front of head/block came from a leaking water pump. I've seen more than a few like this.
 
After digging further it appears that this car has an original, steel, two blade fan. It won't be going back on the car.

I've been using Les Andrews book to review many of the operations I will be doing. It is pretty strait forward and easy to follow.

Making good headway cleaning the tank without removing it. I'm not seeing much benefit to pulling the tank if he doesn't want to boil it out and repaint it.

But whats with all the "Chevy 350" talk. Them's dirty words to someone who bleeds Ford Blue. How about we say "It's different than that 289 Mustang you grew up working on.
 
General comment on "improvements" taken from problems experienced by various members in our club, both on tours and from club weekend work sessions to try and get some club-member's vehicles back on the road:

Tours:

1. Failed front end "anti-shimmy" stabilizer (during this July 4th parade in Calistoga);

2. Fuel starvation from clogged micro-filter in sediment bowl;

3. Failed fuel pump (down-draft carburetor).

Weekend club work sessions:

1. Botched hydraulic brake upgrade (worst part was drilled wishbone to mount hydraulic lines);

2. Botched hydraulic brake upgrade (think 'everything possible was done incorrectly');

There was one other tour problem; new club member could not get his Tudor started after arriving at the assembly point. Turned out he forgot to open the gas tank fuel shutoff valve (actually, he forgot to shut the valve and when getting ready to restart, remembered to "open" the valve. Glad I've never done this...)

The point being that - IMHO - if you're looking for reliability, strive for originality (seat belts, safety glass and turn signals excepted). [I've never heard of a reliability problem caused by seat belts, safety glass or turn signals, but I'll bet someone chimes in with one or two "examples."]
 
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