New Engine starts then doesn't

D

Dave in Denver

Member
I have a recently rebilt Model A Ford engine in my 30 CCPU. The engine is an inserted, pressurized MOdel A block with a 7:1 CR Riley Two Port OHV head on top. It has weber 32/36 dgv carb and a 12 volt petronix distributor on it. A few days a go the engine was started for the first time. It fired on the second rotation and sounded good after some minor timing and carb adjustments. I was started and stopped a few times an even driven around the block once. (great feeling) I left town for a couple of days and today when I ty to start it, and it caught and then back fired loudly :eek: (so much the neightbor thought a gun went off), i thurned it off, let it set for a few minutes, then tried again and it caught but backfired just as loudly:eek:, and now after letting it set for a couple of hours is the engine turning over but not wanting to fire:(.

The fuel pump is pumping gas, I can see gas squirting into the bowl when I press the accelerator lever, the coil has resistance of 1.2 ohms and 10.29 Kohms respectively. The fuse in the fuse block is good, the wiring has been checked, as it was turning over I saw the oil pressure gauge climb up to 20#'s so oil is flowing, the timing was rechecked and looks close enough to start it. I am baffled:confused:.

Any ideas are appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave
 
Hello Dave

I have a completely stock model A but from what you describe, it sounds like it could be the condensor. I took mine out a few weeks ago and it ran great until I stopped for lunch. It was acting like fuel so i tore the carb apart and didn't find anything. I had an old condensor and put it in for shits and giggles. Low and behold, she ran great with the 50 year old condensor. Might not be your problem, but you might want to try it.

Greg

Add; Disreguard my entire post - I didn't catch the electronic ignition
 
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My guess is that the rotor slipped. Is the flathead screw under the rotor inside the distributor tight?

Push the timing lever all the way up, Pull the timing pin on the front of the engine, and bring the engine to top dead center and then make sure the rotor is oriented in this position. (not the dotted line, but the picture)

distrib-2.jpg
 
Thanks you for the suggestions so far:

A few additions to the original post: The distributor is a 12 volt FSI Ignitions centrifigal advance electonic distributor with no condensor, the coil is an Accel 12 coil with an internal resistor. I pulled the plugs and clean a regapped them before trying to restart after back firing.

Thanks,

Dave
 
Even with the modern style distributor, you still have to make sure that it is timed correctly. I'm sure you'll get it figured out in no time!
 
I think the 12 v Pertronix requires 3.2 ohms resistance through the coil. Check with them to be sure.
 
Possibly broken dist shaft is my guesse. I beleive I have played this game before. Maybe the collar pin is missing. Rod
 
Perhaps wet fouled plugs caused by flooding. New to downdraft carbs with accelerator pumps? Do not pump that throttle while starting unless the temp is below freezing. Clear the gas by cranking 10 seconds with the throttle wide open, do not pump the throttle! Pull the plugs, replace with fresh. Now try starting it without touching the throttle.
 
last weekend I posted about my newly rebuilt engine that ran upon initial start up and then after sitting for 3 days did not want to start.

Well today I took some compression checks and they are as follows:

Cylinder 1) - 0#:eek:
Cylinder 2) - 100#:)
Cylinder 3) - 100 #:)
Cylinder 4) - 0#:eek:

This is on a 7:1 CR Riley Two Port inserted engine. Based on what some have told me I assume I have some stuck exhaust valves, possibly due to some bad fuel. My next step is to pull the side cover off the engine and see what I find.

If I find stuck valves do I:

1) lube them and hope they will move?
2) remove the keepers and springs and clean them and reinstall?
3) open to suggestions. :confused:

Thanks, Dave
 
Dave in Denver said:
last weekend I posted about my newly rebuilt engine that ran upon initial start up and then after sitting for 3 days did not want to start.

Well today I took some compression checks and they are as follows:

Cylinder 1) - 0#:eek:
Cylinder 2) - 100#:)
Cylinder 3) - 100 #:)
Cylinder 4) - 0#:eek:

This is on a 7:1 CR Riley Two Port inserted engine. Based on what some have told me I assume I have some stuck exhaust valves, possibly due to some bad fuel. My next step is to pull the side cover off the engine and see what I find.

If I find stuck valves do I:

1) lube them and hope they will move?
2) remove the keepers and springs and clean them and reinstall?
3) open to suggestions. :confused:

Thanks, Dave
Click to expand...
Why would you pull the side cover on a Riley? Is it not an overhead valve head? I would pull the rocker covers to find the valves in this engine, correct?
 
Bring #1 and #4 each to TDC firing position, then using a rubber tip blow gun or modified spark plug blow air into the cylinder being tested. Listen and feel for air comming out the tail pipe. That will tell you if the exhaust valve is stuck open. The piston must be exactly TDC or the air pressure will push the piston down and open the valve.

Pulling the parking brake and shifting into 3rd will help lock the cylinder at TDC.
 
James Rogers said:
Why would you pull the side cover on a Riley? Is it not an overhead valve head? I would pull the rocker covers to find the valves in this engine, correct?
Click to expand...
James the Riley is an OHV head but only the intake valves are in the head, the exhaust valves are still in the block. The intake valves are removed from the block and the lifters are used to drive long push rods to rocker arms that activate the dual intake valves per cylinder in the head.
 
I'm not trying to start a fight, but did you also post this problem on the HAMB site? From what I have read they also might be able to help.
 
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