New Engine block
- Thread starter Terry NJ
- Start date
Art Bjornestad
Senior Member
395 is cheap if the block is sound
700rpm
Well-known member
I would think your price range is about right, for just a block: no head, valve cover, manifolds, etc., at least in my area (Oregon). But you have to define "good block." Try to get one that has at least been boiled out and magnafluxed. That will add a little to the cost, but at least you'll know what you're starting out with. I don't think I'd buy one on eBay. Remember that 5 million Model A's were manufactured. That's a big number. Then there was a decade or more of aftermarket mfg going on. Blocks are not a rare item. Good blocks, though? I'd still say you've got a good chance of finding one at a reasonable price.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
How do you know they are not cracked? What about shipping to then to Schwalms and having them check it out? How much will that cost?
$395 for a checked out, guaranteed block sounds like a deal to me?
Earle
Senior Member
I agree that the price is fair, especially if you're buying it from Schwalms. I've had Ora do extensive work on my roadster from engine rebuild through the entire drive train, brakes, electrical, etc., over the last 10 years. Zero problems.
If Ora is selling it to you there will be no surprises because he will have thoroughly checked it out and he'll stand behind it if you do find a glitch, but a crack won't be one of the glitches after he's inspected it.
Go for it!
If Ora is selling it to you there will be no surprises because he will have thoroughly checked it out and he'll stand behind it if you do find a glitch, but a crack won't be one of the glitches after he's inspected it.
Go for it!
Jerry Parr WI
Well-known member
I find uninspected engines for about $100. You may need 1 or 2 or 3 or ? to find a good one. As pointed out then you have the cost of checking it and you still have one with no guarantee. Is that good or repaired would be my only question. If repaired, what's the repair?
Special Coupe Frank
Well-known member
Mitch//pa
BANNED
terry its a no brainer ora is a stand up guy
he will supply it, build it, and guarantee it. what are you actually going to save by getting another block to him and having that cleaned and checked. ill bet you spend more the other way and if that block is bad your really screwed..
P.S.
try to stop by the buckingham concours show in sept lots of cars and A's top notch event the best in the area...
here is the link
http://www.buckinghamautoshow.org/
he will supply it, build it, and guarantee it. what are you actually going to save by getting another block to him and having that cleaned and checked. ill bet you spend more the other way and if that block is bad your really screwed..
P.S.
try to stop by the buckingham concours show in sept lots of cars and A's top notch event the best in the area...
here is the link
http://www.buckinghamautoshow.org/
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Terry NJ
Well-known member
Yeah, and I have one I'll trade him for it, and it's free too! LOL Well, I'll go for Ora's on the advice of the guys on Ford Barn! Damn I went over that block with a scriber, feeling for cracks. They wern't visible without the magnafluxing. One crack was in the valve chamber and I didn't have that open. This car is a money pit! The flywheel housing was cracked too! And I missed that one Too. Boy, that destroys your self confidence!
Terry
Terry
dumb person
Well-known member
Is cracks in the valve chamber & flywheelhousing really fatal? i have a block where the cracks are between each cylinder & between the valves that i was told by an engine shop should be the engine i should use. They said it will run for years like that
James Rogers
Well-known member
Better stay away from that shop! Cracks in the deck are fatal unless repaired correctly. Cracks in the valve chamber are fatal and are almost impossible to fix right. Cracks in the block exterior, are easy to repair and pose very little problem.
Also, most flywheel housings are cracked so, this is not a fatal flaw unless the cracks are long or pieces are missing.
Terry NJ
Well-known member
Evidentally, there were multiple cracks in the block, every place I DIDN"T look. I went over the deck, literally with a fine tooth scriber and found nothing. The cracks were in the valve chamber! I checked the top of the left hand side of the block, where I was told cracks like to start, Nada! It was cracked at the top rear, under the accelerator linkage. I missed them all! But it took magnafluxing to see them. Ora told me that there were cracks in a lot of places but they couldn't be seen until the block was magnafluxed. As a machinist myself, I was impressed with Schwalmes shop. I saw my first Ford "N" engine (No not the tractor, the car!) That he was rebuilding. Which brings to mind a question, How easy/hard is it to put a N model tractor engine in to an A? The Chinese are recasting the blocks (Bless their little hearts!) for the 9N,8N. About ten years ago, you could by an entirely new, ready to install, 8,9N engine for $2500. I hate the thought of it for so many reasons, but whatcha gonna do?
Terry
Terry
Roger V
Well-known member
I had Schwalm's do an engine last fall. I knew my block had a water jacket crack that was fixed and never leaked in the ten years I ran it. Regardless, I didn't want to put that kind of money in it. I was happy to pay his price for a guaranteed block. How many engines I would have to disassemble, degrease, not be too overbored, etc. to get an acceptable one and pay for each made it an easy decision.
Special Coupe Frank
Well-known member
How about this reason: It won't work.
2nd Reason: If you did make it work, the N-model tractor engine puts out about 23 HP.
Seriously, it's definitely not a bolt-in job... the N-model tractor engine, while having the advantages of full-presure oiling and insert bearings, is a tiny thing, and actually has more in common with the Ford flat-head V-8 than it does with the Model A four-banger.
For all the trouble of fitting the N-model tractor engine, you'd be better-off dropping a V-8 60 or V-8 85 in there.
You're far better off having Ora build you a decent Model A engine.
Thanks for sharing the gory details as to what condemned your block... I fear mine will have the same fate... I know I have deck cracks on # 2 and # 3, between the cylinder bore and exhaust seats...
James Rogers
Well-known member
Terry, my post was not intended to degrade Schwalms in any way. It was intended for Dumbperson in answer to his post.
J and M Machine
Senior Member
For those who would want to keep their original engine the cracks can be successfully repaired through metal stitching which we do on all blocks that come through that have cracks.
However: it depends on the amount of cracks versus the cost of a good replacement engine. Also I wouldn't just trust the magnaflux as sometimes the stud holes are porous and need to be repaired.Only true way to find out sometimes is to pressure test .
http://www.jandm-machine.com/metalStitching.html
However: it depends on the amount of cracks versus the cost of a good replacement engine. Also I wouldn't just trust the magnaflux as sometimes the stud holes are porous and need to be repaired.Only true way to find out sometimes is to pressure test .
http://www.jandm-machine.com/metalStitching.html
dumb person
Well-known member
But.. but.. if the valvechest is cracked what is the worst that could happen? oil leaks? They told me the cracks in the combustion chamber would fill with carbon.
Dad bought a car that had a huge crack in a cylinder wall that had been driven for years until the combustion gasses had carved a huge gap between the cylinders. Bought it thinking it was just a blown head gasket. He filled the gap with weld (arc weld, not sure what type of rod) filed the cylinders round again & replaced the head gasket & that car was perfectly fine for about 10 years. Are all you guys sure about this replacing parts thing?
Dad bought a car that had a huge crack in a cylinder wall that had been driven for years until the combustion gasses had carved a huge gap between the cylinders. Bought it thinking it was just a blown head gasket. He filled the gap with weld (arc weld, not sure what type of rod) filed the cylinders round again & replaced the head gasket & that car was perfectly fine for about 10 years. Are all you guys sure about this replacing parts thing?
James Rogers
Well-known member
Cracks in the valve chamber will leak water into the oil NOT, the other way around. Cracks in the combustion chamber will leak water into the piston and in severe cases into the oil. Any of these will contribute to severe rusting in a very short time. I will say, I know this because of past mistakes made at my expense and customer dismay. What you claim falls into the category of an old wives tale.