New Doodlebug Owner

[Tom Wesenberg]

Hey Liberty,

Feel free to take a look at my doodle bug. I have a folder under my profile. If you have any questions about stuff, feel free to PM me.

Have fun with it,

Jon

I sure could have used that nice plow yesterday. I had to remove 12" of global warming off my driveway.

 

[Liberty Garage]

It runs! Here's a very brief video from Sunday afternoon of the initial start, lots of pics and story to follow later today;

https://www.facebook.com/OldTee/videos/10213804073608730/

Hope the video link works, it's off of my brothers facebook page?!?

 

[Liberty Garage]

Started back on the project last Thursday, worked on it alone til my big brother got here, when he arrived I continued on engine related stuff while he began working on making it a roller. 1st round of pics, starting from installing correct rear main drain tube, cleaning oil pan and interior sub pan, installing front timing cover and cam button, really quick and dirty carb overhaul (will be re-doing that), cleaning and assembly of distributor (including testing condenser) and coating cracked rotor with silicone, replacement of the cracked upper water outlet and painting engine.

Last pics of this group show brother working on mounting front tires, all we could find were 7.50-16 mud tires and were those a bear to get on those narrow little wheels!

Next group of pics will show freeing rear brakes, pulling old engine, setting in "new" engine and all the peripheral stuff required to make it start.

 

[Liberty Garage]

2nd round of pics showing making it a roller, finishing up engine, pulling old and in with the new, brother crimping off the major burst radiator tubes (I started to solder and it was so bad we decided to just pinch off the big leaks for now), brother gutted the generator so we could use it as an idler for the fan belt, made a timing tab for tdc, and hooking up everything temporarily to start.

It did fire up (see video posted earlier) but the carb was leaking, timing was very iffy (I have a lot to learn about timing the Mallory in the Model A) and really need to get throttle and choke controls hooked up for finer adjustments during start up (many of those bits are on order) and a better fuel supply beyond the fuel line and funnel system we came up with. After the video and some further tinkering, it did fire up and actually ran for 30 or 40 seconds and sounded pretty good but loud (also need to build an exhaust system).

Oh yes, one other thing; I installed the front motor mount wrong, got the center spring on the wrong side of the cross member and the engine sat too high, which meant we had to block up the radiator for fan clearance. I could fill a book with what I don't know about Model A's!

The to-do list is long, but at least now it runs!

 

[Liberty Garage]

Continuing to make slow and steady progress on the doodlebug. Connected with some of local Model A folk, was able to get some much needed pieces including rear brakes and drums as well as a fairly decent radiator.

It is starting to look what we'd envisioned and it is also easier to make it a runner when you have a dash board and controls to work with. It now has a working gas pedal, choke control, reworked carb cold idle mixture needle, the beginnings of an exhaust system, reworked upper radiator hose with temp gauge port, better radiator, and a few other bits and pieces.

Once it runs and we verify there are no major issues, the next step will be transmission, hi-low 2 speed, rear brakes and finishing out wiring and controls. When that's all been mocked in or made to work, then a partial tear down to clean up everything, do a little paint and reassemble. We are also looking for a vintage type seat (maybe from an old school bus, like a leatherette 2-seater) to finish out the driving area, we are also looking for an old Ford tailgate, something with the old cool script, so we can build a small pickup box behind the front seat. Oh and rear tires, the local A guys were telling me they go to Les Schwab and they take the old wheels, have them blasted and powder coated and mount the tires, all for about $280 each. Sounds like a lot but at this point not sure there are any cheaper options out there.

One other thing that could be a challenge, what to do about he odd ball (and still unidentified) steering box? We will take the current box apart and see if it can be salvaged, but if not converting back to Model A may be the best bet. The issue with that is the flipped over axle has the steering arm on the passenger side, so would have to get creative there. Thoughts and suggestions welcome!

Here are a few pics showing the recent progress;

 

[Bud]

Just an idea about your Deming pump, could this have been a water pump off a fire truck? Some of the era fire trucks may have used a pto powered pump, or maybe it was a homemade doodlebug to help pump water to refill a tank on a fire truck.

 

[Liberty Garage]

Agree, it could be either of your suggestions, was just showing it to some local Model A guys and they thought the same thing. What makes it neat is the "AA" cast on all pieces, except one bracket, it has "BB" on it. Had to be a factory option I'm thinking?

 

[Bob C]

Agree, it could be either of your suggestions, was just showing it to some local Model A guys and they thought the same thing. What makes it neat is the "AA" cast on all pieces, except one bracket, it has "BB" on it. Had to be a factory option I'm thinking?

2800 series Ford part numbers are for Emergency Brake Controls,
so those are not Ford part numbers on the pump.

Bob

 

[Liberty Garage]

2800 series Ford part numbers are for Emergency Brake Controls,
so those are not Ford part numbers on the pump.

Bob

Thanks Bob! Not finding much information regarding Deming pumps, found an old 1920 catalog (online) and it referenced some A options and B options, maybe later on (in the '30's) they progressed to using AA and BB and had nothing to do with the Ford product, just a weird coincidence.

 

[Liberty Garage]

Progress update;

Since last posting have changed out the radiator (was able to get a really good used one for a reasonable price!), built the initial wiring harness, swapped out the Tilly for a Zenith, hooked up the carb controls, built an exhaust system and a few other changes or repairs I can't recall at the moment.

The harness will be further refined and then covered with looming, the Zenith was on another engine I bought, took apart and it had been rebuilt a few years back but a good cleaning and back together, starts & runs really good now and will just sit and idle! The exhaust system started from a flanged piece I got at O'Reillys, then into an elbow and into a small truck muffler and then a down turn. Much quieter now and more enjoyable to let it sit there and run.

Much more to do, but some other projects will take center stage for awhile (we ride AHRMA and have a couple old BSA's that need attention before the season starts), will peck away at it when time allows and then my brother (OldTee) and I plan to hit it hard again in mid-May, hoping to be at a point where we can do a partial tear down, clean and paint a few more things and then a final assembly. Would like it to be drive-able before end of summer.

The pictures tell the story, thanks for looking!

 

[SeaSlugs]

FYI on that dual high when you take it apart 2 things: 1 the input utput shaft seals are same as some 1970's jeep transfer case seals and can be had at napa for $4 ea instead of the catalogs $16 ea.

Also when you disassemble it DO NOT remove what appears to be a lock ring holding the planetary gears in. it is a ring that was heated up and dropped on so when it cooled it tightened up and held the shafts in. If you pry it off it will never go back on and stay on so leave it alone and soak the whole thing in kerosine to degunk.

 

[Liberty Garage]

FYI on that dual high when you take it apart 2 things: 1 the input utput shaft seals are same as some 1970's jeep transfer case seals and can be had at napa for $4 ea instead of the catalogs $16 ea.

Also when you disassemble it DO NOT remove what appears to be a lock ring holding the planetary gears in. it is a ring that was heated up and dropped on so when it cooled it tightened up and held the shafts in. If you pry it off it will never go back on and stay on so leave it alone and soak the whole thing in kerosine to degunk.

Excellent info, thanks for sharing! I have another question regarding the dual highs; can they be installed backwards and used as an overdrive? I'm pondering another Model A build (something street legal) and have second dual high I could use for that project. Thanks again!

 

[SeaSlugs]

Excellent info, thanks for sharing! I have another question regarding the dual highs; can they be installed backwards and used as an overdrive? I'm pondering another Model A build (something street legal) and have second dual high I could use for that project. Thanks again!

Its been done but they run hot and loud - its running a planetary gear system in reverse and they dont like that. Best just to get a Mitchel or something designed to be an overdrive.

 

[zteegarden]

Hey Uncle Rick, the doodlebug is really coming together nicely! Proud of you guys for getting to this point already. This is an awesome forum to gain wisdom from other guys who have been through it already.

 

[Liberty Garage]

Hey Uncle Rick, the doodlebug is really coming together nicely! Proud of you guys for getting to this point already. This is an awesome forum to gain wisdom from other guys who have been through it already.

Hey Zach! Welcome aboard for this adventure!

Yes, lots of wisdom on this site, I get on here almost daily and read most of the tech posts, learning bunches and these guys have helped answer many questions already.

Your dad and I are really enjoying building this together, we are planning for him to come back later in May and really make some progress. We've talked about you joining us and wishing you were here!

 

[Liberty Garage]

Although it's been quite awhile since the last post, progress has continued...slowly. Like a lot of you, often there are at least half a dozen projects competing for my time and the old doodlebug sits weeks at a time, waiting its turn. When my brother shows up, progress moves along a lot more quickly.

The most recent visit he brought along one of his grandsons, a budding young gear head named Whitman or "Whit" for short. Whitman is only 7, but seems much older. Very smart and loves all things mechanical. Before this trip, he had his mom print out diagrams of Model A's and studied them so he knew the names of many parts. He really dug in and got to work and showed a genuine aptitude for turning wrenches. Already looking forward to his next visit!

Whit also got to help his grandpa do a partial tear down of the original engine from the doodlebug, and much to our surprise it looked a lot better inside then expected. It looks like the pistons were pretty fresh when it was parked, there was hardly any carbon on them. This engine may one day run again. Old Henry and Edsel sure built a marvelous machine!

While Chuck and Whit were here, in addition to tearing down the old engine, we refurbished and installed a 1947 Wisconsin fuel tank and petcock and got the steering to about 95% completion.

The fuel tank is a semi temporary solution until such a time when we are ready to clean out the old tank. Another friend has a '29 hi-boy (mostly stock) and he uses a 2 gallon tank with fuel pump because his fuel tank was so far gone. This gave me the idea and I just changed it up a bit to remain gravity fed.

A few weeks back, I cut most of the steering out and started over. The steering now consists of a nice used stock Model A column, the original wheel that came on the doodlebug that sure looks like a Model T, refurbished the center spider, painted it the Ford green and installed a new rim from Mac's. Fit on the A column, just had to shave the key a bit. Also hooked up the hand throttle, one of the reasons for switching back to a stock column. Connecting the drag link to the left front required some creativity. Decided to fabricate a steering arm using some flat stock and a ball from Mac's. Turned out well but a bit too much flex, so will be adding additional triangulation.

During this same session, I used a combination of torch, recip saw and the wheel of death to remove the rear hitch bumper and cut the rear end loose from the frame, allowing everything to slide back so the transmission could eventually be installed.

This week will be taking the best two rear wheels to Les Schwabs so they can be powder coated and get new tires, also have another pair of front wheels that are much better than the rollers on the tractor now, will get them painted to match the rears and install some better front tires.

After getting the tires sorted will install the clutch and transmission, have also filled the two speed and rear end full of diesel to let them soak and then drained before working on them.

Mocked up the small bus seat and also a windshield frame just to see how it would all look. Lots of work left to do, but the finish line is at least in sight! Attaching photos that tell the rest of the story.

 

[Drive Shaft Dave]

I like what you have done so far ,but I would like to see the original starter on it.

 

[Liberty Garage]

I like what you have done so far ,but I would like to see the original starter on it.

Haha, yes it is quite a jolt to the eyeballs! Would it help if i paint it black?

Wire-wheeled the rear wheels yesterday, as you can see from my selfie, they were pretty grungy!

 

[Liberty Garage]

Last few days have been working on wheels and steering, the original front wheels we first used were rusted out and only safe enough to roll around in the shop, this "new" set is a lot better and although rusty cleaned up and should be safe enough for running around the property and maybe parades, etc. Not expecting to go above 10 to 15 mph, ever.

The steering arm as first built had a lot of flex, added triangulation back to the lower tie rod arm and feels a lot better now.

Got the rear wheels/tires dismounted at Les Schwab, back to the wire wheel and possibly sand blasting, then will prime wheels with rust fix and paint with the Ford engine green, matching the process used on the front wheels. 6.00 x 20 tires ordered at Schwab's, should be in next week.

A few pics of the revised arm and new front tires on better wheels are attached.

 

[Liberty Garage]

After Les Schwab removed the old tires from the rear rims, the wheels were worse off than originally thought. If these were going on a road worthy vehicle, I'd get better wheels. Since it is going for a low speed parade rig, they can be made to work (at least temporarily) but will require care and caution. The condition of the wheels meant that powder coating is out, as they understandably will not powder coat a wheel that is deemed unsafe.

The other day i spent about 3 hours wire wheeling the wheels externally, yesterday about the same amount of time was spent wire wheeling them internally and also using a hammer and chisel to get the really stuck rust deposits off, especially in the lock ring grooves. Finished off with a good coat of rust fix. Today will clean and treat the lock rings and start painting the wheels.

The plan right now is to carefully assemble the tires, wheels and lock rings and put the loader bucket over the wheel (fairly snug) and using only as much air pressure as required, when the lock rings are in position, mig weld in at least four places. I know it's a bit hillbilly, but I'm determined to get this thing up and moving on its own this month.

Ideally better wheels will be located at some point, possibly enough to have duals, and at such time the new tires can be moved to the better wheels.

The first day of wire wheeling my back was really stiff, so yesterday I covered the seat of a shop bar stool and put the wheels on that while i worked. Much easier and more effective and today my back is feeling much better.

Yesterday afternoon, I took the little box off of a garden trailer and placed it on the back, wanted to see what that would look like and it seems about the right size. In order to get it placed, i had to cut the flange off an angle iron cross brace and went thru a half dozen 4.5" abrasive wheels, whew!

I like the look of the box and think when the back wheels are on the proportions will be ok. I'm not liking the height of the bus seat and will probably take the seat back apart, cut the frame down and then put the upholstery back on.

Starting to look like a 1 ton roadster pickup doodlebug the Clampetts might have owned.