new distributor?

Kube

Kube

Super Moderator
I may be in the market for a new distributor. Any I should strongly consider? Any I should avoid?

Thanks guys.
 
Find an original core and build it yourself. All parts suppliers have everything you need to build an original type distributor. Stay with the points.
 
Kube said:
That's a good question indeed.
I have no issue with points. My only experience with electronic has been Pentronix. In my opinion, total junk.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't FSI use Pertronix electronics in their distributors? They for sure use a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil.
 
I have FSI distributor for the last year and it has been trouble free. Shawn at FSI is great to deal with and get advice. I highly recommend them.
 
I have had FSI in my Model A for a couple of years and absolutely no issues. Also have installed in most of my tractors and they were great
 
I've had a FSI Zipper electronic distributor since 2008 (28,000 miles) with NO issues at all. You need to follow the installation instructions to the letter. It's very important to run a third dedicated ground line from the points plate back to the battery.
 
I am distributor poor:
• Brand new original style I bought from Snyder's
• Mallory dual point rebuilt by Jim Linder
• FSI Zipper
• Original, rebuilt by one of our club members.

Except for the last one above, all are on the shelf -- unused.

I did run the FSI Zipper for 5K miles until it failed. FSI rebuilt it, and I even have a spare module for it. I'm now using an original, stock distributor now for the last 15K miles without a hiccup.
 
Highly recommend the new castings from Snyder’s. These come with bushings installed and reamed. Remainder of the parts are also available on Snyder’s.
 
I like to use original if possible, as far as castings go. As for internals, I love a drilled shaft, and otherwise all stock internals. I daily my truck on original points, condensers, all is well with mine. if you put a little Vaseline on the cam once a month if daily driving they will last a looooooooong time. I set my points at 0.020" and it loves it.
 
I have an electronic distributor in one car and one with points in the others. Frankly, I can't feel any difference but I make sure the car I use when I'm going to be driving in remote areas has points. IMO, they are just as reliable and all I need to diagnose any problem is piece of wire with a light globe attached. Not so sure about how I'd manage a burnt out electronic module out there but switching points is easy and quick.
Just because something is new, doesn't mean it is an improvement over what went before it.
 
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I like points. The original Ford points and condensors lasted forever but some of the repos are not all that good. I use good quality modern points and condensor but carry a spare set (that I have not had to use). I have not had very good luck with the electronic ignition. Just my experience, yours may be different.
 
Hi guys.
Well, I ended up going through the OEM assembly once again. Found the lower plate to have continuity between the plate and the contact bracket. The continuity was not a constant. I believe that's why I didn't find it the first time.
I'd replaced the plate with a new one and no more dizzy issues.

Thanks for all of the helpful advice. I continue to learn :)
 
Kube said:
Hi guys.
Well, I ended up going through the OEM assembly once again. Found the lower plate to have continuity between the plate and the contact bracket. The continuity was not a constant. I believe that's why I didn't find it the first time.
I'd replaced the plate with a new one and no more dizzy issues.

Thanks for all of the helpful advice. I continue to learn :)
Click to expand...

I believe you made the correct choice, glad it worked out.
 
I have been told that vaseline will dissolve to a watery state and can cause problems. Anyone else hear of that?
 
Planojc said:
Find an original core and build it yourself. All parts suppliers have everything you need to build an original type distributor. Stay with the points.
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The issue with many of the original cores are they are worn beyond factory specifications. Many never consider this, but the grooves that guide the tangs on the Breaker Plate Assy. are often worn too much which does not support the breaker plate correctly. The correct dimension for this groove is 0.1562".

Additionally, the center of the Dist. Base housing is also worn which does not allow the Breaker Plate to rotate in the true ℄ of the Distributor Cam. This affects dwell and point gap.


With the above said, an original housing can be restored by using a specially made cutter tool and true the groove in a Lathe. Then I put a drop of weld onto each of the 3 tabs, and clamp the plate onto the table of the Mill to machine each drop of weld giving approximately 0.001" clearance in the groove. Also, the center of the Base Housing can be trued while it is in the Lathe. Depending on how severe the wear is, determines how to repair that area. The print calls for this diameter to be 0.715". If the hole in the base plate is within 0.010" or less of the Dist. Base diameter, the base plate can be peined (-as shown in Marco's photo below) however if that number is larger, then the housing needs to be brazed and then remachined to 0.715".


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