New disk brakes

Frank if you are so worried about the axle breaking, either replace the axles or put safety hubs on. How bad are your axles?
 
I'm totally with you Brother H. I'm all for improvements that don't show but improve safety & operation. Moders seals, hidden zerk fittings ect. While Rocky Mountain brakes are period correct, I sure wouldn't remove them if thet were on the car. Frank: You say you already have lined rear shoes. How about this brake equalizer kit they sell that uses the rear shoes when you hit the foot brake? The hand brake still operates normally and it's quite a price difference from RM or disc kits.
 
I would imagine there wouldn't be any negative affect since your still using the trans brake.
 
Did you begin the installation of your disk brakes?
I am very interested but would like to see a picture of an installation on small drum wooden 30" wheels.Jock1027
 
No brakes this winter, can't work on the car till I heal from an operation. May go stock this summer and just drive very carefully, as always. Thinking rocke mountains would be a good way to improve along with floating axel bearings.
 
I used the setup from a 1100 honda. Front wheel. I used the master cylinder.
And the disks that are off set. It worked with the pedal and the hand brake.
If some thing brakes you can still stop. You must use a 26-27 rear case to hold the brackets for the calipers. I made my brackets by hand. But now you can have them cut on a water jet. I found an old honda for $100. If i can find the time i will go get it.I will and post the build.
 
In a pinch the small drum parking brake with lining works. Yes you can lock up the rear wheels with the transmission brake but remember, the foot print of 30 inch tires is very small and does not take much to lock the brakes and slide into the intersection in a panic stop, been there done that. The biggest reason for adding different independent brakes, is in case something breaks. If an axle breaks, the wheel and drum come off and you loose that brake if you don't have safety hubs. If something breaks between the transmission and rear end you still have stopping power.
I have the lined shoes and AC outside brakes. I drive in town most of the time so having a little extra stopping is good. Yes I find that I might drive a little faster keeping up with traffic but I also try to keep a good stopping distance between me and the next car and watch the lights.
To the person asking about the drum size, You have the large drum.
 
32 chevy vett said:
I used the setup from a 1100 honda. Front wheel. I used the master cylinder.
And the disks that are off set. It worked with the pedal and the hand brake.
If some thing brakes you can still stop. You must use a 26-27 rear case to hold the brackets for the calipers. I made my brackets by hand. But now you can have them cut on a water jet. I found an old honda for $100. If i can find the time i will go get it.I will and post the build.
Click to expand...

This would be an interesting tech thread.
 
"I have the lined shoes and AC outside brakes." .???? Sorry for my ignorance, but "AC brakes"?
 
Once a T is modified in one way or the other to allow speeds to exceed 50 mph there is a few issues to be handled.

1- Would be steering as the T steering can be pretty dangerous , other steering boxes should be looked into. I used a REO on our last speedster .

2-Shocks , as a T doesnt have any shocks a big bump can get exciting at 50 plus mph...:eek:

3-Brakes, for sure some extra braking must be added. My last speedster ( the simple T on the hamb board) would cruise at 55 mph all day long . We added the ford expedition rear rotors and calipers. I have built three sets of these and they work very well especially with the small drum rear axle as the rotors are large enough to fit over the t backing plates alowing no needed backing plate mods etc.... We used a tilson master cylinder and a model a brake handle to work these brakes and they worked very well. I have another one in progress and will write up a tech article when i start on it...

Heres a couple pics of our Simple T laping the Indy 500 track with my 96 year old father in law Robert Ford and a pic showing the rear brakes..and the eight inch dropped axle made up by Dave Pratt Martinsville Indiana...

The steam in the photo came from waiting in line with a bunch of Corvettes, once i got around them it cooled off ...
 

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BUBBAS IGNITION said:
Once a T is modified in one way or the other to allow speeds to exceed 50 mph there is a few issues to be handled.

1- Would be steering as the T steering can be pretty dangerous , other steering boxes should be looked into. I used a REO on our last speedster .

2-Shocks , as a T doesnt have any shocks a big bump can get exciting at 50 plus mph...:eek:

3-Brakes, for sure some extra braking must be added. My last speedster ( the simple T on the hamb board) would cruise at 55 mph all day long . We added the ford expedition rear rotors and calipers. I have built three sets of these and they work very well especially with the small drum rear axle as the rotors are large enough to fit over the t backing plates alowing no needed backing plate mods etc.... We used a tilson master cylinder and a model a brake handle to work these brakes and they worked very well. I have another one in progress and will write up a tech article when i start on it...

Heres a couple pics of our Simple T laping the Indy 500 track with my 96 year old father in law Robert Ford and a pic showing the rear brakes..and the eight inch dropped axle made up by Dave Pratt Martinsville Indiana...

The steam in the photo came from waiting in line with a bunch of Corvettes, once i got around them it cooled off ...
Click to expand...

Bubba, I look forward to reading this.
 
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