New 'Death Wobble'

1 -2 inches play and death wobble can be loose bolts holding frame to steering gear AND more likely wrong bolts used.

Bolts must have shanks and holes in frame must not be oblong and bolts must not have grooves in them.

Soft steel Big box bolts with no shanks are NOT your friend here.

Huh. I learn something new every day.

That all makes sense. The holes in the frame were in good shape when I put it together last year. I suppose it's possible that I've elongated them since :( have to pull it apart and see. I didn't use anything special for bolts, just grade 8 stuff from Lowes or someplace like that. I did ensure they were plenty tight last time I was going over the car greasing and adjusting things, but that may not be sufficient.

Thanks!
 
I’m experiencing a wobble at low speeds when I hit a bump, but not at high speeds. I replaced the radius ball mount with a new style and tossed the rubber ball shroud, but my radius ball is shaped like an egg! Should I have it built up or cut off and weld a new one on?
Shure that’s my problem with everything else right.
 
Here's what I've done so far:

Tightened the spring perch nuts. I got about 1/4 turn out of each of them, getting them to 100 ft/lbs. I didn't heat them up, as I didn't want to roast all the paint, but if I need to keep going, I might try that.

Changed the bolts holding the bottom of the steering column to the frame. The bolts looked fine, and the holes are fine, but I replaced them with full-shank bolts which fit pretty snugly,

Increased the tension on the (7 tooth) steering box. It was already pretty tight, but I got a little more out of it.

Checked/tightened the ends on the tie rod and drag link. They already seemed pretty good, but several of them could take a little more.

Reset the toe-in. It was rather too much, about 7/16". Backed off on the tie rod to get it down to about 1/8".

Check the preload on the wheel bearings.

At this point, everything feels reasonably tight. The weather's terrible here, so it will be a couple of days before I can take it out and try it.

If these measures don't fix it, I think my next step is to change out the steering column for a two-tooth. I should probably do that anyway, because the one I have isn't oil tight. I have a disassembled 2-tooth steering column that's in reasonable shape, except that the threads where the steering wheel goes on are trashed. So I'll order some parts to let me clean that up and reassemble.

If I still have trouble, the only thing I can think of left to do is install new kingpins to try to get rid of that last small amount of play.

I'll report back here once I can drive it around some.
 
I have been chasing this ghost for two years. I get the 'wobble' very rarely...but it is annoying when it happens..and scares my wife... so I replaced the king pins and other steering components, as well as checking alignment all to no effect. I still get the 'wobble' every once in a while...particularly after crossing rail road tracks or other rough surfaces, and have learned to stop it by braking and then carrying on. While under the car recently...looking for projects to add to my winter list... I noticed that the rubber ball at the Radius Rod cap was clearly damaged and pieces of it sticking out. I then coincidentally saw a video addressing it as a potential cause of the 'wobble':


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiYYkegf7TM


I have now ordered the Snyders' radius ball cap assembly replacement kit: A-3440-RE. It should be here in a week...costing several times as much as I would have paid locally (but it was out of stock at every German 'A' site and I wanted it in hand for when the weather turns. If that does not stop the 'wobble' I will be at a loss as what to try next.
 
I would rarely get it when I was braking around 10mph over a bump. I have an out of round brake drum that probably is causing this.
 
Interesting.

My car has the -RE radius ball cap, including the rubber cover. It was in pretty decent shape, so I just put it back together as was. After watching that video I'm wondering if I ought to changed it back to the original -S version.

I dug a little, but couldn't find a clear description of what constitutes a worn radius ball. When I had it all apart, I didn't notice any excessive wear on it, but I wasn't looking particularly for that. It's easy enough for me to open it up and mike it. What should the dimensions of an in-spec radius ball be? If I know that, I can judge whether to replace the radius ball cap with the -RE or the -S.
 
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