New clutch-drive shaft problem

[Art Newland]

Hey DennisR, sorry you are having so much trouble with a job that should have been pretty straight forward. But I have to say that this thread has been very informative for someone that has never been through the process. Good luck!

 

[100IH]

At this point, you don't need to add any more problems. I don't see, with all that grease on the u joint, how anyone could say the joint is worn out. Since it is the old type joint it most likely is with a lot of slop though and won't hurt to replace now. Here is what I ran into recently with one of the new style joints. The trans was out and on the floor with the tail end up. I decided to put the new joint on and then install the full round cup with the 2 holes and the 2 pieces we call clamshells on for a test fit. I found that the bolts holding the assembly together could not be installed together without binding and locking up the trans so it couldn't turn. After careful checking without any grease so I could see what I was dealing with I determined that the machine work on the new joint was in misalignment, returned to supplier for a replacement. The replacement was fine. All of this had to be resolved before the axle assy. was even in the picture. A "must do" is to assemble these parts, then turn the trans. output shaft to verify that you haven't added an issue. Do this before you try installing the axle assy. This would not be necessary if you used the old joint. Good luck.

 

[DennisR]

100IH- thanks for the tip, will check it before assembly, Art- appreciate the comment, this is what makes this forum so good, the tips, the comments, the info, the willingness for others to help solve problems, over the years I`ve been a member of numerous forums for the different cars I`ve had but not one matches The Ford Barn..................................

 

[Big hammer]

If you where a little closer, I for one and many others here would give you some hands on help. Wishing you good luck!

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'm glad d.j. mentioned the chamfer on the top leaf not being there, because I also saw where it was running on the crossmember, but I forgot to mention it. I also give the top leaf some grease to make sure it doesn't squeak on the frame, and it helps it slide into place easier.

 

[DennisR]

Re. top spring leaf, whilst it`s visible is there a common fix i.e. run an angle grinder along the edges ? or something less crude.
Would like to fix it before reassembly.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, the angle grinder can do a nice job.

 

[DennisR]

Some pics of my freshly removed u/j. There was only the bolt and spring washer holding it in, and I had expected it to be tighter than it was, it came undone quite easily. I have ordered a fitting kit, bolt, washer etc. with the new u/j.
As to the condition I expect someone will be able to say what they think about the wear and would it have been ok to use again.
From the point of view of my problem I can`t see that there is any reason why the drive shaft shouldn`t have slid in, but again someone may be able to spot what I have missed.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Does it slide onto the ****** splines OK?

 

[DennisR]

Tom, the old u/j did slide ok.
It is back together with the new u/j. I do have a concern about the new u/j in that there does not appear to be much room in the cup, I havn`t tightened it all up yet, just relieved to see the spring back in the crossmember. I greased it well, the bolt head is in its` home, the top leaf was already chamfered when you are up close you can see it.
At the end of the day I can see no reason why I had so much problem, other than my lack of experience with the Model A, I don`t think there was any other reason.
I took on board all the suggestions and tips, the spring still didn`t clear the u bolts so as suggested I used a pry bar and managed to lever it enough to enable me to jack the axle up and it slid into the crossmember.
It`s been a learning curve and I hope my experience may serve to help another rookie.
Many thanks to all.

 

[100IH]

On evaluating the old joint, hold the extended end of one yoke and grab the other yoke with the other hand while holding them in a straight alignment twist one end rotationally and feel the looseness or slop/clearance. The more wear there is the more "lost motion" there is in the drive line - cause factor for vibration and that drift and clunk between accel. and deceleration. On the rear spring, wisdom says "don't force it, get a longer pry bar".

 

[DennisR]

On evaluating the old joint, hold the extended end of one yoke and grab the other yoke with the other hand while holding them in a straight alignment twist one end rotationally and feel the looseness or slop/clearance. The more wear there is the more "lost motion" there is in the drive line - cause factor for vibration and that drift and clunk between accel. and deceleration. On the rear spring, wisdom says "don't force it, get a longer pry bar".

Re. the old u/j rotationally it doesn`t feel to bad but side to side there is a lot of movement, bear in mind I don`t have any previous on what it should be and what is acceptable, in comparison to the new one it is obviously very slack. There is quite a difference between them design wise.
The reason I`ve had the trouble I`ve had could be down to my reluctance to use force.

 

[100IH]

The side to side slop in the old joint is not an issue because the transmission tail shaft at the front and the drive shaft at the rear keep the yokes in good alignment as long as the included bearings are in good shape. I am shure lots of Barners have learned from your journey. Best regards from Southwest Idaho, Mark.