New clutch-drive shaft problem

Bob C said:
Did you ever take the u-joint off the trans and try putting it on the drive shaft
as suggested earlier to make sure it slides on ok??

Bob
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I didn`t remove it Bob, I used the endoscope, it`s small enough to go right inside, couldn`t see any damage.
 
Jacksonlll said:
At the front end of the driveshaft, make sure you have the snap ring in its groove.
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Looks like I`ve missed something, `snap ring`?

Would that be the retaining ring for the roller bearing? I didn`t disturb that but I will check it.
 
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The middle upper picture, looks to me that the drive shaft is a little low and to one side. It could be the angle of the picture. If it is not on center could be binding?
 
Studying the picture of spring, cross member, u-bolts, I think I had to have the spring almost touching the cross member. Try and push the u-bolts up, if only a1/4 inch might get the angle less at the u-joint. Don't push the u-bolts out of the cross member!
When you get it back together it will feel so good:-) !!!!
 
I agree that you might need to raise the rear so the spring just barely slides past the U-bolts. Seems I even lifted the 2 U-bolts as high as they would go when I pulled the rear forward.

You don't show it, but I assume you install the two gaskets and center cup before you slide the driveshaft in place. I see you have the uneven spacing for the 6 cover bolts, so the center cup of course would need to be the same style.
 
Can you put it in gear & turn the engine with the crank? That'll make the u joint turn & it might get "just" right, to engage the drive shaft. There's NOTHING to keep the u joint from WOBBLING KRAZY. Those can be a *****, sometimes & when you're NOT expecting it, "CLUNK" & it goes right in!
Some suppliers sell a KROOKEDY plier type tool that reaches in & grabs the tail end of the "U" joint snout & you can move it around.
Bill W.
 
"I didn`t remove it Bob, I used the endoscope, it`s small enough to go right inside, couldn`t see any damage."

Regardless, given the trouble you have, and given that everything is accessible, I would still remove the U Joint from the ****** and try it. You are talking a 5 min task.
 
Looking at the u joint, It is the old style and appears to have slop in the joint. It may be the picture, butthe joint does look worn. This is an aside, and it won't help with the install, but it is the correct time to replace the u joint.
 
DO NOT take the shackles loose unless you have a spreader. I have had this problem before. with the rear end in as far forward as you can the spring will NOT go up in the cross member. by about one inch. take a bar and pry the spring forward while jacking the rear end up it will go in.
 
Once again taking on board all the new tips, Bill yes I did try getting someone to crank it over, thanks, Big Hammer yes it`s out of alignment at that time, we had just given up, TbirdTbird as you and Jacksonlll said I probably should remove the u/j to be 100% sure it`s not damaged and as Midgetracer observed the joint does look worn so I guess a new joint is needed, I`ll post some pics of the old one when fully cleaned as a matter of interest. Tom I took the inner cup off to try fitting it without just in case, I had the spring lightly touching the bolts, I was thinking about using a pry bar as J W suggested.
I am not really fond of forcing things, I have found so far that bearing in mind the age of it everything comes apart quite easily and there is little problem in re-assembly which in this case makes me think I have missed something.
 
Jacksonlll said:
I think it may be time to borrow a spring spreader from someone.
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Not that easy over here, TBH I don`t think I need one, I do need to find the cause, there must be a reason it doesn`t slide in, I`ll keep at it, I`m convinced I`ve missed something. Ive just ordered a new u/j, meanwhile I will go thru everything again and doublecheck. One of the advantages of retirement, time is not an issue (I hope :D).......................
 
I just noticed this is in England, so can I assume the car is RHD?
I haven't worked on any RHD cars, but I can't see where that would make a difference with this problem.

JW brought up a good point. Is the rear spring hitting the frame or U-bolts the problem?
Is the front of the torque tube tight to the inner cup, or is that where you have a 1" gap and can't pull it tighter?

As far as the U-joint, don't worry about the radial movement, as that is what the joint is for, but if you have rotational slop then it's worn out.
 
Might i also suggest that when you get your new U joint and looks like its gonna slide on easy attach the u joint to the trans then load up that cavity with as much grease as you can by hand. Needs to be absolutely packed.
 
I agree with tbirdtbird post 48. You won't see a thing with the endoscope. A burr can be very small and cause a big problem. Take five minutes and take it off to see if it will fit. If it does your problem is elsewhere.
 
Left hooker Tom, came from Texas, still got the reg. plates, yes the u/j is coming off and a new one is going on, well greased, will obviously try it on the shaft first, just to make sure.
The gap is at the front, if I could close that gap then the spring would miss the u bolts and go straight up into the crossmember.
 

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It's been suggested a couple of times to remove the u-joint from the ****** and try to install it on the driveshaft. Have you tried that? I know you said you looked with a scope, but I never saw where you actually have had the U-joint on the driveshaft since you removed the rear end from the transmission. The driveshaft spline may have some damage that has occurred since removal, or during removal from the git go. Been there, done that.
 
daveymc29 said:
It's been suggested a couple of times to remove the u-joint from the ****** and try to install it on the driveshaft. Have you tried that? I know you said you looked with a scope, but I never saw where you actually have had the U-joint on the driveshaft since you removed the rear end from the transmission. The driveshaft spline may have some damage that has occurred since removal, or during removal from the git go. Been there, done that.
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No I havn`t, tried to be clever and use the `scope, it`s coming off now and a new one going on, be interesting to see if the `scope missed anything.
 
DennisR said:
Some pics, don`t really show much but someone might spot something I`ve missed.
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On looking at the photos,..I have a comment about the 4th, 6th and 7th photos.

The 6th and 7th photos,...the U/J "looks" like it's not seated. It has to be tight
against the inner race of the rear bearing,..with the correct bolt / washer in
the U/J. The joint just looks like it's sticking out a long way..

The 4th photo,..this is NOT your problem, but,..someone has worked on the
rear spring and the top leaf is not champered on the edges too match the
inside of the rear cross member. The spring will not seat fully if the edges
of the top leaf are not ground..
 
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