New clutch advice

[Darrell S]

I am planning to replace the clutch on the 48 in the near future. I have a new clutch disc and pressure plate from Fort Wayne.

After reading many of the posts on pros and cons of engine removal over pulling the rear end assembly back I'm kind of in a quandary. If the flywheel needs resurfacing can it be removed if the engine is in the car? Must the pan be dropped to do this? Not a fun job apparently.

Also I would like to have on hand all the new parts that would be needed to finish this with as little down time as possible. Any advice appreciated.

 

[flatheadmurre]

If you don´t have a 2 piece truck oilpan...the pan has to be dropped to get the flywheel out.

 

[JSeery]

"If the flywheel needs resurfacing can it be removed if the engine is in the car? Must the pan be dropped to do this? Not a fun job apparently."

It somewhat depends on the oil pan you have, but in general, yes the oil pan has to come off.

 

[philipswanson]

You might want to just pull the engine especially if you want to detail the compartment or work on the motor.

 

[Mart]

A good quality release bearing and pilot bearing would be good things to have on hand.

 

[FortyNiner]

In my experience, you'll need to pull the engine. While is is possible in theory to 'just' pull the back end, the oil pan will not cooperate, the output shaft flange connections and the size of the clutch will conspire against you. Also, I would plan to replace the main seals - both front and rear.

Don't forget the throw-out bearing replacement.

 

[tubman]

AND, while you're doing it, you should plan on replacing the motor and transmission mounts. A few years ago, I put a resurfaced flywheel and new pressure plate and disc in my '51. It didn't help much. I replaced the motor mounts and everything fell into place. Plus, motor mounts are cheap and easy if the engine is out, so you should just do it on general principles.

 

[hardtimes]

I am planning to replace the clutch on the 48 in the near future. I have a new clutch disc and pressure plate from Fort Wayne.

After reading many of the posts on pros and cons of engine removal over pulling the rear end assembly back I'm kind of in a quandary. If the flywheel needs resurfacing can it be removed if the engine is in the car? Must the pan be dropped to do this? Not a fun job apparently.

Also I would like to have on hand all the new parts that would be needed to finish this with as little down time as possible. Any advice appreciated.

Hey Darrell,
Can you show pictures of the plate and disc that you bought ?
There are good an best of these. Pictures will tell me what you have.

 

[Tinker]

Pulling the pan is not a bad idea anyway. Clean the pickup and pan and put it back on. Replacing the motor mounts are easy and never hurt.

 

[Darrell S]

Hey Darrell,
Can you show pictures of the plate and disc that you bought ?
There are good an best of these. Pictures will tell me what you have.

I have recently installed new motor mounts when I replaced water pumps. Also have a new rear trans mount, planning to install.

 

[bo8109b]

I have recently installed new motor mounts when I replaced water pumps. Also have a new rear trans mount, planning to install.

Just out of curiosity, what are the symptoms that you are changing out the clutch? Just changed my '40 clutch which was very smooth operating, no chatter and the flywheel was fine. Pulled the rear end back to access.

 

[Darrell S]

Just out of curiosity, what are the symptoms that you are changing out the clutch? Just changed my '40 clutch which was very smooth operating, no chatter and the flywheel was fine. Pulled the rear end back to access.

I can't adjust it any further to make it release. The PO added length to the adjustment and now there is no more. Also won't go into gear without grinding. It always has had some chatter but if you released the clutch fully before giving it any gas it was pretty smooth.

 

[hardtimes]

Hey Darrell,
I'm going to send you PM, as I can not see PP pic (inside) clearly.
As for the disc. This disc does not have the small 'ears' the capture the springs. In this case, these springs CAN wear , become loose (make rattling noise) and even leave their assigned areas...all not good.
Lots of work to remedy these if / when any of this happens.
Would a guy take a chance of any of this happening, if a better disc is available to use to prevent...your choice.

 

[Darrell S]

Hey Darrell,
I'm going to send you PM, as I can not see PP pic (inside) clearly.
As for the disc. This disc does not have the small 'ears' the capture the springs. In this case, these springs CAN wear , become loose (make rattling noise) and even leave their assigned areas...all not good.
Lots of work to remedy these if / when any of this happens.
Would a guy take a chance of any of this happening, if a better disc is available to use to prevent...your choice.

Is there a better disc available? I would prefer not to take the chances you list.

 

[hardtimes]

Is there a better disc available? I would prefer not to take the chances you list.

I've seen /bought the 'captured' spring type from ebay.
I'd be surprised if Fort Wayne wouldn't have them also. Worth a call.

 

[dwick01]

I did mine without pulling the engine, as I have a small shop and not much room. It wasn't bad at all. My brother came over and helped. Also did much of what is mentioned above, cleaned and replaced oil pan and gaskets, replaced seals, oil pump screen (which was really clogged), motor mounts, transmission mount, thermostats, resurfaced flywheel, new clutch assembly from Fort Wayne.

Had a pretty good oil leak before and lots of chatter, now all is good. I had never done much of this stuff before and relied on the good information and help from the fordbarn and my brother. Very happy I got all of the that done.