New Cam Gear Install

stevests

stevests

Well-known member
Hey fellas - went through most if not all info available here & some videos which don't show actual install - one statement I read stood out was that "due to the helical gear profile, one cannot simply verify timing mark alignment prior to installing the new gear" - something about having to set it a tooth or two one direction or the other ???????

I'm not following that logic - any pointers for a second time gear install in 50 + years ?

Appreciate the input !
 
I just went through this this morning. It takes a little trial and error. I start with what appears to be a tooth anti-clockwise of the desired location. Tighten it up and see where it lands. Adjust from there.
 
I find that using a white marker pen to highlight the appropriate valley and opposing tooth helps tremendously to get it right first time. (PS the diagram in Les Andrews book is slightly wrong - the keyway of the crank points to the valley to the left of the gear mark - Les Andrews shows it pointing to the valley to the right )
 
That's what I intended to do - white marker on both marks and can't understand why the cam gear won't just rotate and position itself in the correct orientation ? I'll grease up both gear contact areas and give her a go. I'm also installing a new one piece pulley so everything is quite visible.
 
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Look up on your computer (paul sinn how to replace a timming gear on a model a ford) it shows you a video and the timing marks. Hope this helps

Bill
 
Got her on ! White marker on both, aligned the marks, little grease on gear teeth & dowels, went almost home then rolled the engine back & forth a smidge and "ding" heard it go home ! New nut, blue loktite & 100 lbs. on the wrench - appreciate the info !
 
The amount of torque people put on these nuts is amazing. I wonder at what point you'd start to crush the timing gear.
 
Not saying the camshaft can't take it, it's just interesting to me that the strategy seems to be to make the nut as difficult as possible for the next guy to remove. 100 ft-lbs plus loc-tite goes way beyond what's needed to secure the gear.
 
Terry Burntz recommends 40 ft lbs on his new engine and Dan Mc Eachern stated that 50 ft lb is more than sufficient.
 
alexiskai said:
The amount of torque people put on these nuts is amazing. I wonder at what point you'd start to crush the timing gear.
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Many years ago I was taught to use a hammer and a blunt punch, tap, tap, tap, not too much and it's done.
 
katy said:
Many years ago I was taught to use a hammer and a blunt punch, tap, tap, tap, not too much and it's done.
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In my reviews of 1950s/60s Model A restoration publications, that's basically the accepted procedure. I assume the adapter that's sold now didn't exist, so you either had an original Ford tool or you used a punch.
 
The obvious original nut had been clearly both tightened & loosened using the punch/chisel method - she's sporting a new one now !
 
Just make sure to tighten it enough. I didn't once and had a slow car with timing problems until I realized the gear came loose and was moving in and out.
 
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