New Brakes

C

Cwarner

Junior Member
Hi All,

I received my new cast iron drums and brake shoes from Randy Gross... Top notch! I'm putting them on my '30 CCPU. The front drivers side went on well enough. Working on the passanger side now. I got the shoes on and adjusted my brake rod to get the 15 degree forward lean on the brake actuator.

My issue is when I pull back on the brake actuator by hand, the wedge does not engage the shoes to spread them until way past vertical. We are talking 20-25 degrees backward lean before the shoes move at all. I quit for the night and am.seeking advice before I proceed. Thanks in advance!

Chris
 
I assume you have tried to adjust the brake. It could be that the pin that goes through the king pin is not long enough. You can buy new pins and also you can buy shims that go in the end of the pins, sometimes call pills, see link at bottom.

Now that you have adjusted the brake rods for the 15 degrees, do not change them. Instead work on the pins and adjustment. It may also be that the brake adjustment shafts need replacement, part number A-2042, see second link. The shafts have been reported to be different lengths so it may be a good idea to buy a few and select ones that are the same size and the right length. On any brake the shafts should be the same length.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=977561&cat=41655
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=977535&cat=41655
 
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Thanks. I should have mentioned that I did purchase new operating pins to go through the king pins. I had not messed with the adjuster as it was not necessary on the drivers side. I'll try the adjuster to see if that makes the needed change.
 
CWarner are you saying you didn’t have to turn the adjustment wedge at all on the other side? To remove the old drum or install the new one? I have the old steel drums so maybe they are different but I have to turn the adjustment wedges to even take my drums off and then turn them back the same number of clicks if it’s just a bearing regrease. I did have trouble with one side on mine getting the arm to lean forward, two pills, new rod, welding and ground roller guides. I’m still not sure what was worn or wrong.
 
Here's is how to obtain the 15-degree angle on the front brake arms:
 

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History:. Oh no I had to back those suckers all the way out to get the old steel drums off. When I installed the driver side cast iron and new shoes shoes i can hear just a couple of high spots on the pads scuffing the inside of the drum without tightening that adjustment anymore so I took that as good to go.

Bob:. Thanks, I believe I need to order some pills. It is acting like my operating pin is too short and if I can take up that slack with some pills maybe I'll be back on track.

I wasn't sure if I was missing another adjustment in the brake actuating arm of if there is another wear point in the brake shaft that may cause this issue
 
Adjust the adjusters. Tighten them until the wheel won't turn. Back them off until it turns with just very slight drag. Thats the starting point.
 
Chris, Did you check the concentricity of the brake shoes? It is usual to have some high spots that rub for a portion of the drum rotation but not a lot. The brakes will seat in as they are used. A friend of mine put his brakes together without any attention to the arcing or concentricity and just rode the brakes until they smoothed out. I don't recommend that.

If you cannot get the brakes to adjust then put some pills in as Bob suggested and/or get some new longer brake adjustment shafts.

Adjust the brakes as Patrick said but then do a stop test and make minor adjustments for pull and skidding on both rears. At 20 mph you should be able to stop within 25 feet with the car pulling left or right.
 
I have not done this myself but others have reported welding up and re grinding the ends of the pins to lengthen them. I suppose some sliver solder and the pills may do the same thing.
 
I was told by a man that if you didn't have any of the pills that are sold for this that he has used small washers and they work just fine. I haven't had to do this yet, but it seems like it would work.
 
A couple questions:
(1) Are you sure you put the clevis pins with the large head in the lower holes of the brake shoes and not the smaller clevis pin head?
(2) Assuming the correct clevis pin is in the lower position, are you sure the heads are on the roller tracks? It's easy to install the return springs and not get the heads on the roller track. The brake shoes will then be too low at the bottom and will stick outwards. That might account for the difficulty installing the new cast iron drums and getting a firm braking action.
(3) Do not overtighten the castle nut that secures the sliding brake wedge anchor bolt, or whatever the heck that thing is called. If that outer nut is too tight, the wedge will not be able slide freely up and down. Just tighten the nut enough so that it is not loose, yet so that a cotter pin can be inserted through the threaded portion's hole.
(4) With the brake rod disconnected, pull the actuating arm back and release. The lower brake shoes should expand outwards and when the lever is released, they should snap back into place. If one or both shoes does not noticeably move outward, there's your problem. Recheck suggestions 1-3 and you'll probably find what's causing the front brakes not to operate correctly.
Marshall
 
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Marshall V. Daut said:
A couple questions:
(1) Are you sure you put the clevis pins with the large head in the lower holes of the brake shoes and not the smaller clevis pin head?
(2) Assuming the correct clevis pin is in the lower position, are you sure the heads are on the roller tracks? It's easy to install the return springs and not get the heads on the roller track. The brake shoes will then be too low at the bottom and will stick outwards. That might account for the difficulty installing the new cast iron drums and getting a firm braking action.
(3) Do not overtighten the castle nut that secures the sliding brake wedge anchor bolt, or whatever the heck that thing is called. If that outer nut is too tight, the wedge will not be able slide freely up and down. Just tighten the nut enough so that it is not loose, yet so that a cotter pin can be inserted through the threaded portion's hole.
(4) With brake rod disconnected, pull the actuating arm back and release. The lower brake shoes should expand outwards and when the lever is released, they should snap back into place. If one or both shoes does not noticeably move outward, there's your problem. Recheck suggestions 1-3 and you'll probably find what's causing the front brakes not to operate correctly.
Marshall
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I guess we tend to take too much for granted at times, thinking the brakes would be working correctly before the drums were put on. Its good to back us up at times.
 
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