New Brake Linings

JohnRAKerr

JohnRAKerr

Junior Member
I have done some research on how to sand down new brake linings without getting a clear understanding on what exactly it is I need to do in order to get my hubs on.

For starters, I am nearing completion of my chassis and have my front service brakes completed with new linings and it is obvious that they are too thick for the hubs/drums to be placed on. I have read that linings come too thick for the purpose of sanding down or other adjustments having to be made. One other method which I'm not too sure of is grinding down the adjustment shafts down slightly. Is this a proven/reliable method?

Thank you in advance for any help/recommendations

John K
 
I have never had a single lining be "too thick" to install the drum. Before you sand or grind make sure everything is adjusted as tight as possible and the roller pins have seated on the tracks properly. I know some companies were making the linings too thick but that was years ago I believe.
 
If your linings are indeed too thick, you can have them "radius ground" to suit the diameter of your drums. In otherwords, If your drum has been machined to a slightly larger diameter, the standard (thickness) lining will only contact in the middle of the shoe. In this situation it will take a long time for your linings to match the drum.(this can cause erratic braking and a spongy pedal (shoe flexes)) You supplier has (by the sound of things) supplied oversize linings.
You should ideally take all the drums and relined shoes to the brake shop and have them "radius ground" keeping a pair of shoes matched with each drum.
 
its quite common for the threads of the adjusting screw to be gummed up with rust and old grease, thus preventing full retraction. Remove the adjusting screw, clean the threads and chase them all the way. Clean out all old dried grease from the back of the housing so the head of the screw can come completely to rest against the back. Lubricate the parts well, re assemble and be sure the adjuster is all the way out before attempting to slip the drum over the shoes. As little as one more turn can make all the difference.
 
I grind a taper on the leading and trailing ends of the lining. The taper needs to be from the end of the lining, almost to the large rivet holes where the heads of the rivets rest. When the end rivets are installed the leading and trailing ends of the lining tends to kick out and WILL cause problems when attempting to install the brake drum. If the shoes are way off center, the brake tracks will need work.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top