New block

Knowing that it was a "good" block would make it well worth that amount.
Folks realize building a flatty is no longer cheap.
 
2500 for a fully machined block. That means the valve job is done and the cylinders a bored to standard. The top is decked too. Guys wanting to go big would not have to worry about sonic testing or core shifts. Here's an idea that was not mentioned. Do we really need those big valve guides? Could the be machined for a modern press in bronze guide? I realize there might be an issue machining the lifter bores.
 
Tod,

You obviously have the knowledge to do this so I say if you have done your homework on demand and cost and believe your business case is solid then go for it. Original blocks are getting harder and harder to find. If you can come up with a cost effective replacement then go for it.
 
After doing some more model work to my OHV water jacket model I ran around some and while I was out I stopped by the foundry to pick up 6 of my new iron Thomas heads. Then I went back to the shop and tore most of the top of the 8BA off. Looks like one cylinder is the culprit in this one binding up.

Tod
 

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I hate to jump in this great post, But If I sell a block and it is bad.. YOU get your money back or another Block. I hate to see fellows spend money for both the part and the inspection. aka I have a cracked Merc crank for free to any one, after a buyer had it inspected! Love the Barn Newc
 
How about making an iron master cylinder with stainless sleeve that is like a 1940 ford 3 bolt pattern, but has dual reservoir for front and rear brakes and provision for the stock brake light switch on the back. That would be great! I wish that existed.
 
Tod: are you going to start a gofundme or Kickstarter campaign to fund production, I've been looking for a decent rebuildable block for almost a year not having much luck, so I'm interested.
 
you are too good to be true..
question ? how many people help you ?
wish I was near you --- I would pay to help


I do all design work myself, all tooling work myself, all machine programming myself, all fixturing myself, and I have help to run normal day-to-day production on easy stuff. Harder things, I have to do myself.

If I was really too good to be true I could find a job and not have to do all this. Nobody will hire me, after they see my resume.

I will need more help if I can get investors to come through on my new foundry. I have several people that want in and I am looking at places to put the foundry and move my machine shop along side of. And YES, I actually know what is involved in pouring metal, having owned a foundry in the past, as well as working with at least 50 foundries around the country over the last 40 years. My foundry will pour all my blocks, heads, intakes, headers, and other stuff I have ability to get in the door. Huge potential!

Tod
 
Tod: are you going to start a gofundme or Kickstarter campaign to fund production, I've been looking for a decent rebuildable block for almost a year not having much luck, so I'm interested.

I was not planning any funding effort like those. I plan to model the block up and then see if people are interested. The Model A crowd had some 120 blocks asked for so I moved on with that based on that start. I am just about to get production cores for that project and it will be into casting mode. I have machined a few castings already and have one running on YouTube to show people what they can expect. This is not my first time making an engine block.

Tod
 
How about making an iron master cylinder with stainless sleeve that is like a 1940 ford 3 bolt pattern, but has dual reservoir for front and rear brakes and provision for the stock brake light switch on the back. That would be great! I wish that existed.
67 Econoline-ish?
 
I would love to have the functionality of the dual master cylinder

(this)
AB-626-BK-MC-Ford-mastcyl.jpg


with the mounting flange of this

s-l225.jpg



Without having to use this adapter

hc-821as2021.jpg



Maybe the casting could look like this, but have two plugs on the top and two outlets on the side, and brake switch outlet on the back.

3-Bolt-Master-Cylinder-1-1-4-Bore-Fd4570.jpg





This is Econoline

67econmc2.jpg
 
I would love to have the functionality of the dual master cylinder

(this)
AB-626-BK-MC-Ford-mastcyl.jpg


with the mounting flange of this

s-l225.jpg



Without having to use this adapter

hc-821as2021.jpg



Maybe the casting could look like this, but have two plugs on the top and two outlets on the side, and brake switch outlet on the back.

3-Bolt-Master-Cylinder-1-1-4-Bore-Fd4570.jpg





This is Econoline

67econmc2.jpg

The cost of development means quite a few need to be sold. Tooling for something like that would be a couple thousand, then it needs to be machined, requiring fixturing and programming. Maybe another couple thousand. Then there are the internals and what-nots. I'm not sure what master cylinders cost, but a new one would need to be competitively priced, I would think. Doable, but can enough be sold to make it worth doing? I have no idea.

Tod
 
^^ long one of my wishes too, with residual valves built in, a pressure switch tapping and a 1-1/16" bore. Ports for 1/4" lines straight in would be good too.

I think we just went off on a tangent.

I like the idea of a new block, though, Tod. I'm afraid I'd never be in the market for one, though.

With so little background info in the original post it is easy to see why some did not take it seriously. Kudos, though, you have the experience to pull this one off.

Mart.
 
Master cylinders are kind of off topic except for the form of manufacture. Dual masters have to have two separate pressure chambers along with the dual reservoirs. Just like anything else, when you modify a casting design, everything grows. It might just be easier to find the best dual master available and settle for that. As long as my E-brake works good, I don't worry much about having a single chamber master cylinder. I owned a lot of cars before I finally had one set up that way and I never had any troubles with them.
 
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