Need to replace headgasket

Vintage Copper 47

Vintage Copper 47

Senior Member
My rebuilt engine is leaking coolant through some of the head bolts.. Yes even after I re-torqued to 55lbs! I want to pull the head and try a new gasket.. where can I find one for a 226 SIX "G" model?.. C&G only shows a head gasket for an "H" model engine.
I think some coolant got into my crankcase oil.. I have less than 500 miles on this engine.. I read on Fordbarn I should change out the oil once, run the motor, and change oil again.. I am really perturbed by this!.. :eek:
 
Walt, did you happen to use copper coat or any sealer on the head gasket? Also my son is just putting his together, even though it's a V8, but i told him to use a small dab of permatex number two on the threads of the bolts when screwing them in to the block. I know yours is a six but did you have the head bolts out, which i assume you did? I will try to give you a call tomorrow after i get back from a fellow rodder's barbecue. Mark.
 
The first thing I would do is drain the oil and inspect it closely to see if there is any water in it. Depending on that you may have a simple out, merely needing to seal the head bolts I have done two 8BA's and have used composite gaskets with no sealer. I did however, use sealer on all of the bolt threads. There are plenty of threads on here recommending everything from Permatex to some steam engine sealer. Find the problem before the deciding on the solution.
 
Oh yeah, one more thing. I don't know for sure, but i would imagine that the "G" series sixes have head studs, like the early eights. I would do anything I could to NOT use sealant on the head gasket on an engine with studs. You will see why if you ever have to change the head gasket the second time.
 
Tubman, !!!!! CORRECT!!!!
I thought my engine would never give up the heads put on with copper coat.I had to drive wedges in all around the heads. I was sure I was going to crack the block or warp the heads. The gaskets were so solidly adhered that they had to seperate down the middle.
 
vanpeltsalesstore.com


Jack E/NJ
 

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Two things I would try, first some Indian Head on each bolt thread. One at a time, and torque to spec. To avoid buying a gasket. At the same time use a hardened steel washer on each ( if not already equipped ) bolt. To insure the bolt is not bottomed out.

If if still leaks then have at it.
 
The g series does have studs. (At least mine does). Is it still necessary to seal the nuts on top? Just a question. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
In the case of studs I'd say no. The idea of bolt threads leaking would be due to unidentified variances ( rust ) in the block. Studs and nuts allow for visual Id of threads. The process I cited took care of leakage I had on my avatar.
 
Hi Walt, Good suggestions above. I think first thing to do especially if you suspect coolant in oil is to drain immediately and inspect.
I will assume that you have studs. Try to localize the leakers and deal with them individually with sealant. I can not add much more to this since I have not dealt with leaking studs.
Van pelts is great source for parts and another possible source for head gaskets is Southside Obsolete (507-332-6789) in MN. Contact info fred@southsideobsolete.com. Let us know how it works out for you
 
Were the studs removed for the rebuild? If not they are not likely to leak now.could be a bad head gasket.
 
If the studs were removed and put back in, then you're probably leaking on the coarse threads in the block. This is really common in flathead V8's - especially if somebody ran a "normal tap" through the threads in the block (bad idea). What I usually do is buy the ARP Teflon sealer - comes in a tube. Clean all the studs on a wire wheel, apply the Teflon sealer, reinstall them, put it all back together (let it sit for at least a day), then fire it back up. This "cures" just about all leaking stud issues. Best of luck!


PS: This is also why I use ARP studs - with the little allen/hex-head receiver in the top. This makes it possible to pull individual studs and NOT have to remove a head. Then, I can fix a "leaker" is no time at all. Also, in the case of Flatheads and aluminum heads, makes it a WHOLE LOT easier to pull the heads at a later date - as I pull the studs first.
 
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