need to replace 7 tooth steering box.

JimG1127

JimG1127

Member
Hey everyone. I have a '29 roadster with a 7 tooth steering box. It has a lot of slop and play. I had wanted to replace it with a rebuilt 7 tooth box from a Model A vendor. None are available. Only for the 2 tooth. I cant switch to a 2 tooth because I would need to send in the core of a 2 tooth which I don't have. I see that some people go for the Ford F-100 steering box swap. Has anyone tried this? What were your results? Happy with it? I see C W Moss has it. It ain't cheap.
 
A 7-tooth steering box can be rebuilt fairly easily and will work quite well - tight with no slop.

We have several A’s in our club with the F150 steering boxes with quite a bit of slop in them. I think they were installed some time ago, so are worn.

Good luck finding a good solution -
Jim
 
Two tooth columns ARE found on Ebay. Price for complete (which you need since you can't use a 7 tooth column on a 2 tooth box) runs about $100 ON UP.

I've found two columns locally on Craigslist/Facebook Marketplace in the last year. Surprisingly both of these were the "gemmer" column (i.e. 29 transition) which you need if you want to keep the column "period original" with the larger sector top. One was $65 the other $100.

The Gemmer columns can be problematical to rebuild because the bearings/worm/cups are not reproduced. But it is possible to use the later 30-31 2 tooth internals to "upgrade" the box. But you have to replace EVERYTHING.

If you choose a 30-31 column, you CAN use a 28-29 wheel on it, but the distance between the spark/throttle levers becomes too large (the 28-29 wheel has a deeper "hub" IIRC.) The wheel rim sits a little "closer" to the driver.

It is possible to "mix" a 30-31 box on a 28-29 column, but you have to carefully study out and match to the various "length" options for the steering wheel shaft. I believe there are four.

Best is the 28-29 "gemmer" box/column rebuilt with more modern internals. Measure your worm location relative to the top thread BEFORE removal/replacement.

Be sure the worm is "concentric" with the steering shaft lest you create a "bind."

Snyder's was happy to take a return on an improperly mounted non-concentric worm/shaft assembly. It is an "interference fit" and assembly subject to "strong-arming." (i.e. not precise in execution.)

Joe K
 
IMO, the best way forward for the OP is to find a machine shop (you must have them over there) that can make eccentric sector shaft bushes and assemble the box so that maximum engagement between the sector and worm is obtained. Once correctly assembled, the 7 tooth steering box is actually quite good. I have one in my '28 Tudor. It had NO freeplay in it when I assembled it and now, about 15,000 miles later has about 1/2" at the edge of the steering wheel. I'm happy with that.
 
All good info. I'll look into these different options and come up with a plan.
Wish my Dad was still around. He was a machinist at Grumman Aircraft. He could have made anything I needed!
 
JimG1127@Gmail.com said:
All good info. I'll look into these different options and come up with a plan.
Wish my Dad was still around. He was a machinist at Grumman Aircraft. He could have made anything I needed!
Click to expand...

I also wish my father was still here for very similar reasons. I might have been a little **** at times but heck, I miss that man.
 
I have 2 Model A’s that I bought in 1990, an early ’28 OCPU and a ’28 roadster. Both cars have the 7-tooth steering boxes and both had a lot of slop, leaked badly and were hard to steer when I bought them. Reading the Les Andrew’s book and other publications I managed to adjust the boxes and get most the slop out of the steering and filling the boxes with Penrite I got rid of all the leakage. I also had the steering and pitman arms rebuilt and added E-Z steer seats. I’m 88 years old now with bad shoulder problems but both cars are still easy for me to steer.
 
Jim, I'd be happy to advise about this if/when you bring me your speedometer for a look-see. As you might note from the responses here, there may be more to consider about your steering issues than just simply replacing the box.

Bob Bader
 
My father got one of the first of the Mel/Randy Gross steering boxes
and it still works fine. That was around 1994.
 
what changes to the chassis will one need to make when installing a Randy Gross steering box ? I have some f1 boxes I saved for that purpose, also what is the word on the installation of needle bearings and seal in the sector shaft of a 2 tooth box ? good or not worth the effort ?
 
Synchro909 said:
I also wish my father was still here for very similar reasons. I might have been a little **** at times but heck, I miss that man.
Click to expand...

You are not alone on that thought. I didn't think I was a little ****.
I KNEW I was a little ****.

The high school called my dad once and he was told I wasn't going
to graduate unless I straightened up with the grades.

My father threatened to burn my '28 Roadster pickup.

I graduated.
 
My '31 Tudor had the F100 pickup steering gear when I got it.

Feels like normal play for a modern manual steering gear.....maybe 1/2" at most.
 
I fitted a 34 box to my 28ccpu,
I used the 34 housing, 30 sector housing and 34 NOS gears,28 column and wheel.
46 pitman arm.
works great. no mods needed to the chassis or column mounting
Lawrie
 
I rebuilt my 7 tooth gearbox with new bushings, bearings and sector. I bought a new worm gear too but could not get the old one off the shaft so reused the original. End result was about 1" of play at the steering wheel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top