Need to re-torque head, but socket is too fat

[shew01]

I swapped out the upper water outlet with a part that lets me install a thermostat closer to the engine, and I need to re-torque the head on my car. The socket that I have is too fat to fit squarely on those two head nuts. It looks like I’ll have clearance issues on the head nuts near the distributor as well.

What are my options?


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[Glenn C.]

A special torque wrench adapter is available from the suppiers

 

[shew01]

A special torque wrench adapter is available from the suppiers

I see this one for distributors (https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/...QUE-TOOL-ADAPTER?fromCategory=SearchByKeyword), but I don’t know if that is thin enough to help me with the water outlet.


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[shew01]

Will something like this work with a torque wrench? https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2580-8-Inch-Crowfoot-Wrench/dp/B000NPR2BC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Or, does that foul up the torque wrench reading?


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[super flat]

A thin wall socket or either grind or turn one down. Then only use it on those two bolts.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

There is a special wrench by Snap-on (if you can find one, they are out of production) or use the "Gyp Part" you get from the vendors.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/snaponheadwrench.htm

You don't say what year your car is but I find on the '30-31 a thin walled 12pt ⅜" drive socket will fit the water neck. It is tighter on the '28-29. You may have to pull the distributor...

 

[jw hash]

yes it will foul up the torque. and they can round out the hex nuts. on the out let, if you have a old 11/16" socket, just grind it down.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Will something like this work with a torque wrench? https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2580-8-Inch-Crowfoot-Wrench/dp/B000NPR2BC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Or, does that foul up the torque wrench reading?


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Those will change the torque reading as they change the length, unless you can use it at 90°.

 

[shew01]

There is a special wrench by Snap-on (if you can find one) or use the cheapy one you get from the vendors.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/snaponheadwrench.htm

You don't say what year your car is but I find on the '30-31 a thin walled 12pt ⅜" drive socket will fit the water neck. It is tighter on the '28-29. You may have to pull the distributor...

The car is a 1931. I didn’t know there was a difference for the older year engines.


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[shew01]

Those will change the torque reading as they change the length, unless you can use it at 90°.

Can you elaborate? I don’t think I understand the 90 degree part.

By the way, this is the first time I’ve torqued a Model A head. So, I’m a bit green on the technique.


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[1931 flamingo]

If you're torqueing the head nuts with a torque wrench, get the accessable ones to 55#'s, then use a box wrench and tighten to the same "feel". It's not rocket science and 1 or 2 lbs diff isn't going to hurt. JMO
Paul in CT

 

[Y-Blockhead]

The car is a 1931. I didn’t know there was a difference for the older year engines.

The outlet is a different shape, shorter on the '28-29.

Can you elaborate? I don’t think I understand the 90 degree part.

By the way, this is the first time I’ve torqued a Model A head. So, I’m a bit green on the technique.

What I meant by 90°, have the opening on the adapter 90° to the torque wrench, not straight out. Still not ideal tho. Best to use the proper wrench.

I see the Snap-on wrench on e-Pay occasionally. But of course you want it NOW!!

 

[30 Closed Cab PU]

The most used term for the wrench is a "Crows Foot Wrench".



If you purchase one, the best have the drive opening and the wrench opening that goes on the nut in perfect vertical alignment. Some are not aligned, are offset, and you have to use them properly to obtain proper torques.


Here is a previous string/discussion with lots of info.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238662&highlight=crows+foot

 

[shew01]

Whew! I found a skinnier socket. [emoji846]


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[Y-Blockhead]

The most used term for the wrench is a "Crows Foot Wrench".

Yes, "Crows Foot" I don't use them so I could not remember the name. The opening of the "crows foot" should be 90° to the torque wrench. If inline, it lengthens the torque wrench, throwing off the torque reading, ~ >10%.

 

[Russ/40]

As many have mentioned, grind a 6 point socket to fit. The crows foot tool is a lousy and troublesome tool, not for torqued fasteners. Get a decent quality socket and grind the full circumference to clear as needed.

The one next to the distributor can be easily dealt with. The vendors make a "U" shaped wrench to reach under the distributor so it can be torqued. It has a box end on the bottom, and a 1/2" ratchet square for the torque wrench on top. It allows accurate torqueing as the box end is immediately under the torque wrench so there is no erroneous torque error. Worth having.

 

[CarlG]

I have a supply of the SnapOn wrenches. Most of the guys in our club have these. They work great.

 

[Richard in Anaheim CA]

I am always amazed to find "many" Model A guys that don't even torque those two long studs at proper torque. They are afraid of breaking the casting.

I believe they should be torqued the same as the others. I sand the mounting surface flat, use the proper copper/asbestos gasket or make a gasket out of a magazine cover. I have one ground down socket.

The distributor, Loosen the lock screw/nut, lift the distributor and torque. It's time to put a little grease or anti seize on the base of distributor so it doesn't rust anyway.

Richard
Anaheim CA

 

[AL in NY]

shew01, you don't need retorque the entire head if you just loosened the two nuts for the water outlet.

 

[shew01]

I replaced the armored ignition cable too. So, I have at least three lose head nuts.


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