Need help! working on camber issue / '48 Coupe

Listen to Bruce! He is spot on. The rack must move with the axle in order to work properly and a flex coupling, like an old Pinto unit must be used. I had a '56 pickup come into my shop with a home installed rack attached to the frame and it was a real white knuckle ride. It was just plain scarey! Every time the axle moves, the tie rods move in an arc and cause the effective length to change causing wild bump steer. Find the guy who installed it and shoot him as a public service or at least break all his fingers and take his took box. It will be a great public service for everyone else. Restore the car to the original cross steering configuration whether original parts or good aftermarket and you will never have a problem of this kind again. When changing the camber or caster ALWAYS cold bend the axle. Truck shops and Ford dealers that have aligned twin I beams can do the job. BUT it must be cold bent only. Hot bending while easy to do takes the temper out of the axle and makes it as sturdy as a wet noodle! Good Luck
 
I think you have a good solid basis for a front end there...junk was added, but main works are there. Proper steering is readily available and spindles can be fixed or replaced without too much pain. '48 Ford has good ride and handling stock, but you will likely need to replace a bunch of bushings, tie rod ends, and rubber bits to get it all up to snuff.
Whoever installed that steering REALLY needs to find a career where he can't hurt anyone.
Don't worry about camber until you get all the pieces back in their proper places and measure things. As I said, you can do a crude diagnostic check of camber with simple tools.
 
A thought comes to mind, unless you are planning on replacing the 302 with a suitable flathead or modifying the oil pan on the 302, the original steering configuration will most likely not work. This is one of the reasons that there are a lot of GM engines installed in fords.
 
51 MERC-CT said:
A thought comes to mind, unless you are planning on replacing the 302 with a suitable flathead or modifying the oil pan on the 302, the original steering configuration will most likely not work. This is one of the reasons that there are a lot of GM engines installed in fords.
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That's what I was thinking that the steering is the result of the engine swap.
 
Amazes me the crap some will go through re engineering (for want of a better polite word) the steering, rather than modify a pan and oil pickup!
Martin.
 
I found that adding PS box from an S-10 (605) a stock front end stears like a modern car. and fit's very nicely with Tube headers. That and a Disk brake conversion and you can travel with the best of them.
 
It was pretty easy to get rear-sump sbf pans, back when I was doing Jeeps. I've forgotten the details, but someone here, or on hamb, will know. (Corresponding oil pickup, to go with pan)

605.... That was the one that was popular to use in 55-57 Chevy's. Also came from vehicles other than S-10. Also available new in Chevy catalogs for 55-57 (and others).
 
All the work that has been done and money spent to bring it back to stock your best bet is to go with Mustang II.
Chassis Engineering has a bolt on MII cross member.
You have the column and power steering get dual MC.
Add up all the parts you would need Rad, engine Flathead, ect
Go with the 302V8
 
the spindles are mounted upside down & backwards i have never seen a set up like that i guess they thought they invented a new way to install rack & pion .
 
If the spindles are upside down, the axle would have to have been bent quite a lot to get positive camber.
Have a look at your stock front end to see what me and Mart are trying to tell you guys.
Martin.
 
Good point about this front end and suspension. I've installed several Pinto/Mustang front suspensions systems in cars and trucks, and have have found this to be a very satisfactory way to go, and you get disk brakes as an extra benefit. I realize cost maybe an issue, but this would be money well spent. Remember safety first.
 
Please look at the attached picture and tell me how to get this piece off !
Thanks.....
 

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apairof66s said:
Please look at the attached picture and tell me how to get this piece off !
Thanks.....
Click to expand...

Some use a pickle fork, others strike the outer diameter a sharp blow to break the wedge.Either way will work.

A pickle fork is a tapered fork that you drive between the two parts to pop them apart.
Bill
 
Pickle forks tend to mar or even damage parts where they contact them, you might try striking both sides of the eye where the stud passes through. Use two ball pein hammers and strike simultaneously. Works great on tie rod ends and ball joints, I loosen the nut and leave it on until ready to remove part.
 
Thanks for the reply.
I don't know if a pickle fork aka ball joint separator will work, but i'm open to ideas.
I attached another picture hope it helps.
 

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