Need help ! I am recently experiencing starting problem after driving a short while. The engine will stop or after stopping will not start again,,,but wait a hour or so and will start again. Its a 35 Ford roadster with 39 V-8 with Mallory electronic dist, twin NEW stromberg carbs on Edmunds intake, Eldebrock heads and electric fuel pump. Did run great at first (100 miles of short trips) but last 2 runs were not good.... Any ideas...fuel pump working and pressure set at 3 psi...Any help would be appreciated..thanks Steve G.
Need help with Stromberg problem
- Thread starter rxoldcars
- Start date
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
Could well be a marginal coil or condenser checking out when hot.
Engine starting happily later suggests that carbs are still full and able to function, but here's a simple test: With engine in no-start mode, put a small splash of gas or a shot of starting fluid down the throats. As you crank, engine shoulf arrive at a burnable mixture and try to start if fuel supply is the problem...I'm pretty sure your problem will prove to be ignition parts on their way out.
PS...Mallory condensers are as marginal as their points in my experience...the condensers hav very short electrical lifespan AND they have grounding problems due to a shellac-looking coating on the can.
Engine starting happily later suggests that carbs are still full and able to function, but here's a simple test: With engine in no-start mode, put a small splash of gas or a shot of starting fluid down the throats. As you crank, engine shoulf arrive at a burnable mixture and try to start if fuel supply is the problem...I'm pretty sure your problem will prove to be ignition parts on their way out.
PS...Mallory condensers are as marginal as their points in my experience...the condensers hav very short electrical lifespan AND they have grounding problems due to a shellac-looking coating on the can.
Mike in AZ
Well-known member
as Bruce said.....and check spark at a plug when you get the no-start problem...good luck.....Mike
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
My experience with dying coils, something that confused me for a long time, is that you will see a spark on testing but the spark is not adequate to run the engine.
The dying coil spark is thin and yellow, while a good spark is fat and blue. The real diagnostic is trying a different coil!
So far, I have not had a problem I could blame on a condenser...but I have heard a lot of bad things about these late Mallory condensers and know from personal consultations that the points are junk, often good for less than 1,000 miles before rubbing blocks are gone.
The dying coil spark is thin and yellow, while a good spark is fat and blue. The real diagnostic is trying a different coil!
So far, I have not had a problem I could blame on a condenser...but I have heard a lot of bad things about these late Mallory condensers and know from personal consultations that the points are junk, often good for less than 1,000 miles before rubbing blocks are gone.
My 2 cents is that a faulty condenser will allow a engine to start but it will break down badly when trying to increase RPM. I had a engine that would idle well but put a small load or try to rev it and it would die, A bad coil will no doubt be the problem with hard starting hot.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Mallory isn't the company it was back in the day. I don't have any experience with a Mallory electronic distributor but if it was a true electronic, it would use a Hall effect sensor to keep time. The ignition boxes and coils are still of questionable manufacturing quality control from different accounts I've read about them. Distributor caps are even problematic. Nearly every one needs to be set up on a machine before installation just to get the advance curve in the ball park. Bubba would be the guy to talk with for most questionable ignition components.
Paul Selfe
Senior Member
Check your connections, this same thing happened to a buddies flathead "T" last week. It turned out to be the push on connector at the module for his Mallory electronic dist. Paul Selfe.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey Steve,
Hm, going thru pretty much same 'electronic dist' Mallory dilema now! Mabe something that I've found can/will help you,eh
!First, could you say whether YOU installed the elect Mallory system? And, can you give the model/series # of your distributor (i.e-50,etc)? And, does your current system have the box that I've pictured below?
Anyway...I've found that that box is NO longer used/made. I was told by Mallory to take it out of my system(# series 50 elect dist). Check..if you have a LOOSE/defective ground, which is a common source of problem. Have you checked the magnetic pickup gap (.007/.010) ...too much gap=hard start ? Are you using carbon wires? Are you using resistor(12V). I have NO condensors/points in my elect dist system..you?
Etc..etc...
BTW- I like this elect stuff..if it works/reliable. But, as I'm not a diagnostician and do not like over the road breakdowns where I have ZERO change to fix on the road, I'm going back to what I know(somewhat
)..i.e.- original equipment. Please let us know what you find to solve you elect dist system problem..if any. It may help some here. Good luck.BTW- beware of some advice. For example, I was told that my elect mallory crab can be converted back to ...like original equipment. Someone here , who is recognized at authority...said NO! Bummer for me. Cause the elect dist is expensive ..repair parts..as well as being PIA, IMO
Attachments
Last edited:
hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey Steve,
I'm taking my series 50 dist out today. Can you / anybody say if there is a 'bench test' way to tell is module/trigger are good/bad
I'm anxious to see what you've found as a problem and fix
BTW- Mallory guy was helpful...from a distance,eh!
I was told...'get rid of the generator and run an alternator' ! Heck, don't know why the change would help? And, don't know why whoever put this system into this car....didn't put in an alternator in the first place (mabe wasn't told??). Are you running an alternator?
Not sure this will help on the original post...but I just solved a similar issue on my stock '40 ignition I thought I would share similar to Jons.. I bought a new "rebuilt" coil as the car would die when hot..I also purchased an NOS condenser.
The car would crackle and miss at top of RPM range especially when warm. I just bought a reproduction condenser and installed..I planned on pulling the distributor which I previously "rebuilt"...car runs great now!..so will forego pulling the distributor.
It will be interesting to see if my plugs burn cleaner assuming my spark has improved...they fouled easily. Not pleased with the way the condenser fits (bracket reversed 180) but after a year of tuning carbs, dist etc......I'm pleased..
Lane