Leo,
I have done many, many Model A brake jobs.. they are on of my forte's.....
I watched your video and here's a few observations on my part.
1. In your video I watched how when you touched the right shoe (one sticking)it seemed to have a little more than normal play for/aft on the pin.... Sometimes the holes get sloppy in the shoes... as do the original pins and the brake adjust shaft pins.. and brake adjust shafts ( they have the point on them). Ensure that the hole or Tunnel as Tom Endy called it is free from burs, as well as the adjuster pin/arm themselves. I've also seen where there are burs on the end of the shoe where the adjuster pin goes can actually bind against the adjuster pin. Sometimes the shoe is at fault, sometimes the adjuster pin is too tight against the shoe and can cause binding. A little white grease is good to ensure that they slide well in the mating adjuster wedge housing. Attention to detail is key in these areas.
I think your springs are probably OK...., with the exception of the one that is slightly sprung.. and like Tom, I prefer the lower springs "over" the pin. Again, not that this is your problem... but when you have problems it's prudent to ensure that all the details are the best they can be. Make sure your top adjuster pins are the "shorter" correct pin, again, heads out, cotters tight around the pin. It looks like your other cotters are well done.
I believe this is the core of your "adjusting" problem... now on to others I see.
2. The shoes are not "Chamfered" at the top and bottom of the shoes between the leading edge of the shoe and the rivets.. If not chamfered it can cause a soft pedal, incorrect adjustments, and of course less than full contact of the shoe within the drum ( at least until full break in). Also, not chamfering can cause brake chatter.
removingthe shoes, sanding them on a belt sander to chamfer them a little ( don't go overboard) will definitely help ensure your getting better contact and adjustment.
Make sure shoes are "centered" on the backing plates for correct drum contact.
3. Your operating shaft arm doesn't appear to be far enough forward In the "brake released" position. That could be because the operating pin is too short, and as Tom said can be built up with weld or braze to lengthen, and/or adding another pill. When the brake is full depressed the brake operating lever should be no further back than vertical. Any further you have lost your mechanical advantage and braking effectiveness.
4. You have v8 shocks.. that typically stick out too far and catch on the brake rods. I would pay attention to the rod alignment from the front of the car looking at the shock/brake rods. You may need to obtain some Model A shocks to correct this.
5. I advise to ensure the brake shoes are "centered" within the backing plate for proper contact with the drum... after the shoes are "arced" or fit to the drum. Each drum/set of shoes are to be fit to each respective drum.
6. final notes, include making sure that the wedges, even though they may "look" good, do not have any dished areas on the sides. They can be slightly dressed on a narrow belt sander or file.. but do not alter the contour. Additionally, ensure that all brake rollers and pins fit and roll, without slop and any bind.
7. Worn spindle bolts, loose backing plate bolts.. etc can cause brake issues. Ensure that all of those are tight. if the backing plate is not squared or there is slop/loose, the brake operating pin can bind within the king pin and cause issues. Look at how many pins have wear in this area and you will see how common that problem is.
As I said in #1, in watching your video, I believe that your problem in the "Adjusting" part is mainly in your adjuster arms and binding/ slop in the shoes/pins/adjuster housing, etc. You're just going to have to carefully inspect all these parts to see where the problems are... and correct them.
Everyone thinks brakes are easy. They are not... and even though I have more brake jobs under my belt than I can count.... and I pretty much have them down to a science... you still get stuff that can give you grief. Pay attention to detail, be patient, fix/replace all worn parts... ( which means don't be cheap) and I'm confident you will persevere.
Keep us posted.. Good luck!
Larry Shepard
I have done many, many Model A brake jobs.. they are on of my forte's.....
I watched your video and here's a few observations on my part.
1. In your video I watched how when you touched the right shoe (one sticking)it seemed to have a little more than normal play for/aft on the pin.... Sometimes the holes get sloppy in the shoes... as do the original pins and the brake adjust shaft pins.. and brake adjust shafts ( they have the point on them). Ensure that the hole or Tunnel as Tom Endy called it is free from burs, as well as the adjuster pin/arm themselves. I've also seen where there are burs on the end of the shoe where the adjuster pin goes can actually bind against the adjuster pin. Sometimes the shoe is at fault, sometimes the adjuster pin is too tight against the shoe and can cause binding. A little white grease is good to ensure that they slide well in the mating adjuster wedge housing. Attention to detail is key in these areas.
I think your springs are probably OK...., with the exception of the one that is slightly sprung.. and like Tom, I prefer the lower springs "over" the pin. Again, not that this is your problem... but when you have problems it's prudent to ensure that all the details are the best they can be. Make sure your top adjuster pins are the "shorter" correct pin, again, heads out, cotters tight around the pin. It looks like your other cotters are well done.
I believe this is the core of your "adjusting" problem... now on to others I see.
2. The shoes are not "Chamfered" at the top and bottom of the shoes between the leading edge of the shoe and the rivets.. If not chamfered it can cause a soft pedal, incorrect adjustments, and of course less than full contact of the shoe within the drum ( at least until full break in). Also, not chamfering can cause brake chatter.
removingthe shoes, sanding them on a belt sander to chamfer them a little ( don't go overboard) will definitely help ensure your getting better contact and adjustment.
Make sure shoes are "centered" on the backing plates for correct drum contact.
3. Your operating shaft arm doesn't appear to be far enough forward In the "brake released" position. That could be because the operating pin is too short, and as Tom said can be built up with weld or braze to lengthen, and/or adding another pill. When the brake is full depressed the brake operating lever should be no further back than vertical. Any further you have lost your mechanical advantage and braking effectiveness.
4. You have v8 shocks.. that typically stick out too far and catch on the brake rods. I would pay attention to the rod alignment from the front of the car looking at the shock/brake rods. You may need to obtain some Model A shocks to correct this.
5. I advise to ensure the brake shoes are "centered" within the backing plate for proper contact with the drum... after the shoes are "arced" or fit to the drum. Each drum/set of shoes are to be fit to each respective drum.
6. final notes, include making sure that the wedges, even though they may "look" good, do not have any dished areas on the sides. They can be slightly dressed on a narrow belt sander or file.. but do not alter the contour. Additionally, ensure that all brake rollers and pins fit and roll, without slop and any bind.
7. Worn spindle bolts, loose backing plate bolts.. etc can cause brake issues. Ensure that all of those are tight. if the backing plate is not squared or there is slop/loose, the brake operating pin can bind within the king pin and cause issues. Look at how many pins have wear in this area and you will see how common that problem is.
As I said in #1, in watching your video, I believe that your problem in the "Adjusting" part is mainly in your adjuster arms and binding/ slop in the shoes/pins/adjuster housing, etc. You're just going to have to carefully inspect all these parts to see where the problems are... and correct them.
Everyone thinks brakes are easy. They are not... and even though I have more brake jobs under my belt than I can count.... and I pretty much have them down to a science... you still get stuff that can give you grief. Pay attention to detail, be patient, fix/replace all worn parts... ( which means don't be cheap) and I'm confident you will persevere.
Keep us posted.. Good luck!
Larry Shepard
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