Need help to set idle
- Thread starter david.skinner
- Start date
David,
That "vacuum" port by the oil fill tube is NOT a vacuum port. That is the engine end of the crankcase ventilator that was fitted to some military stuff. Your manifold is a Canadian war time job.
The vacuum ports should be on the back of the manifold riser just below the carb, I believe. I can check later when I get home as I have this manifold.
Vacuum leaks can occur at the valve chamber side of the inlet ports, had this happen, no amount of spray stuff will find these ones. Only manifold removal.
Martin.
That "vacuum" port by the oil fill tube is NOT a vacuum port. That is the engine end of the crankcase ventilator that was fitted to some military stuff. Your manifold is a Canadian war time job.
The vacuum ports should be on the back of the manifold riser just below the carb, I believe. I can check later when I get home as I have this manifold.
Vacuum leaks can occur at the valve chamber side of the inlet ports, had this happen, no amount of spray stuff will find these ones. Only manifold removal.
Martin.
david.skinner
Member
Right - new inlet manifold gasket on the way - will change tomorrow. Is it best practice to use a gasket sealer with these? I certainly do on my motorcycle restoration.
Regards
David
Regards
David
Charlie ny
BANNED
ds,
In my experience the best...most trouble free....nozzle bars are those
that sort of resemble an upside down 'V' with an integral vent tube pointing
straight down towards the venturris. From the photo of your idle tubes it APPEARS as
though you have the tall nozzle bars which kind of look like the letter 'N' with one
vertical leg missing. Let us know which nozzle bars you actually have. The 'N' type
are very fussy about which idle tube can be used and further more there are about
6 different 'N' bars and just as many variations of idle tubes to service the 'N' bars.
Let us know what bars you have and we'll go from there.
Charlie ny
In my experience the best...most trouble free....nozzle bars are those
that sort of resemble an upside down 'V' with an integral vent tube pointing
straight down towards the venturris. From the photo of your idle tubes it APPEARS as
though you have the tall nozzle bars which kind of look like the letter 'N' with one
vertical leg missing. Let us know which nozzle bars you actually have. The 'N' type
are very fussy about which idle tube can be used and further more there are about
6 different 'N' bars and just as many variations of idle tubes to service the 'N' bars.
Let us know what bars you have and we'll go from there.
Charlie ny
Charlie ny
BANNED
ds,
Your vac seems good enough to me.
Charlie ny
Your vac seems good enough to me.
Charlie ny
FlatheadTed
Well-known member
Blast the carb out with compressed air ,blocked idal jets Ted
david.skinner
Member
Just normal grease Brian?
Ted - did that yesterday as part of the rebuild
Charlie, they are the N ones and I did notice that the idle tubes don't sit concentrically in them. The both touch the sides of the outer tubes. I have heaps of close up photos of the disassembled carbs if that is of any use for identification. I'd be keen to know what to fit and where from. Much appreciated.
Regards
David
Ted - did that yesterday as part of the rebuild
Charlie, they are the N ones and I did notice that the idle tubes don't sit concentrically in them. The both touch the sides of the outer tubes. I have heaps of close up photos of the disassembled carbs if that is of any use for identification. I'd be keen to know what to fit and where from. Much appreciated.
Regards
David
Brian
Well-known member
Just normal grease Brian?
Yes David. You know how when you coat the sides of a gasket with [any] coating, and then when you torque the gasket down, all that 'goop' squeezes out around the outside of the joint? - yeah, well it also squeezes through to the inside of the joint too. If you use grease on the intake manifold gasket, any excess grease that squeezes into the engine is readily assimilated and does no damage. Other products, especially silicon rubber, I shudder to think about.
Grease will seal those minor imperfections, allow surfaces to 'slide' over each other as the torque is applied, and permit the gasket to easily be subsequently removed and indeed, even re-used!
Yes David. You know how when you coat the sides of a gasket with [any] coating, and then when you torque the gasket down, all that 'goop' squeezes out around the outside of the joint? - yeah, well it also squeezes through to the inside of the joint too. If you use grease on the intake manifold gasket, any excess grease that squeezes into the engine is readily assimilated and does no damage. Other products, especially silicon rubber, I shudder to think about.
Grease will seal those minor imperfections, allow surfaces to 'slide' over each other as the torque is applied, and permit the gasket to easily be subsequently removed and indeed, even re-used!
david.skinner
Member
Yes - that sounds a really good idea on both counts Brian. I would like to change the manifold gasket before I head over. I would probably need the car to be running a bit better before I come over.
With the inlet manifold off is there anything to identify/check/measure?
Does anyone know the inlet manifold head bolt size and pitch? I'm pretty sure I've got a partially stripped thread and I am planning to put in a thread insert and need the sizing, unless there is a reason not to?
Regards
With the inlet manifold off is there anything to identify/check/measure?
Does anyone know the inlet manifold head bolt size and pitch? I'm pretty sure I've got a partially stripped thread and I am planning to put in a thread insert and need the sizing, unless there is a reason not to?
Regards
Charlie ny
BANNED
Dave,
Brian's offer is outstanding and I'm sure together you will both sort it.
If by any chance any of your mates has a donor 94 with a pair of the inverted 'V' nozzle bar assemblies with holding straps grab them pronto. The 'N' nozzle bar must
be fitted with just the right style idle tube....some are vented some are not. To further frustrate things the 'N' bars come in no vent single vent and multiple vent
designs. Everything must match including the 94 these bars are installed in, if they
do not match the issues you are facing will occur.
The 'V' nozzle bars seem to be happy in most every application.
If you and Brian choose to go this way ,during sorting, be sure to carefully
install the 'V' bars with 2 gaskets under each leg and careful see that the bars sit nice and proper on their seats. With both bars and straps in place snug up the rear strap and
attempt to rock the bars, they should be secure and solid feeling at this point. If
good here back the rear strap securing screws off 1/2 turn and repeat this proceedure on the front strap. At this point the squirter should also be firm and
not wiggle.
I remember to always disassemble the bars and run a tag wire thru the idle
tubes and be sure all openings in the bars are clear.
The above is only my opinion and I certainly respect all other opinions.
Charlie ny
Brian's offer is outstanding and I'm sure together you will both sort it.
If by any chance any of your mates has a donor 94 with a pair of the inverted 'V' nozzle bar assemblies with holding straps grab them pronto. The 'N' nozzle bar must
be fitted with just the right style idle tube....some are vented some are not. To further frustrate things the 'N' bars come in no vent single vent and multiple vent
designs. Everything must match including the 94 these bars are installed in, if they
do not match the issues you are facing will occur.
The 'V' nozzle bars seem to be happy in most every application.
If you and Brian choose to go this way ,during sorting, be sure to carefully
install the 'V' bars with 2 gaskets under each leg and careful see that the bars sit nice and proper on their seats. With both bars and straps in place snug up the rear strap and
attempt to rock the bars, they should be secure and solid feeling at this point. If
good here back the rear strap securing screws off 1/2 turn and repeat this proceedure on the front strap. At this point the squirter should also be firm and
not wiggle.
I remember to always disassemble the bars and run a tag wire thru the idle
tubes and be sure all openings in the bars are clear.
The above is only my opinion and I certainly respect all other opinions.
Charlie ny
Last edited:
big job
Well-known member
Just curious again, did you do the quick test; pull throttle out a little 'key off'
now turn engine over with your hand over carb. If its not sucking your hand, thats
reason why you only have 14 inches at idle. Example we have a late Mercury in a
F6 that runs like a kitten, problem is you have to tow it. When I put my hand over
the carb. there is nothing then when running vac gauge is way down there. Haven't got to it yet, but my bet is the gasket failed 'inside the valley chamber' so in case any
new or old carburetor needs suction to pull fuel through venturies idle passages and
such. I been whatching this post and for kicks stuck a vac. gauge on my car 59A and
I got steady 20 inches at idle......doctors stethoscope........ threw my timming light out 50 yrs ago . the vac gauge rules.
now turn engine over with your hand over carb. If its not sucking your hand, thats
reason why you only have 14 inches at idle. Example we have a late Mercury in a
F6 that runs like a kitten, problem is you have to tow it. When I put my hand over
the carb. there is nothing then when running vac gauge is way down there. Haven't got to it yet, but my bet is the gasket failed 'inside the valley chamber' so in case any
new or old carburetor needs suction to pull fuel through venturies idle passages and
such. I been whatching this post and for kicks stuck a vac. gauge on my car 59A and
I got steady 20 inches at idle......doctors stethoscope........ threw my timming light out 50 yrs ago . the vac gauge rules.
david.skinner
Member
Thank you everyone - just got to get it going well enough that I can get over the hill for the 2 hr trip to Brians. Terry here are all the photo's of the carb. Of course it is possible that the components are not even from a single style of carb. The only markings on it I can see is the single '94'.
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