Need Help for Diagnosis...

[steve s]

Thanks, Steve.

Dave,
I hope this helps. I was assuming you were talking about vibrations that occur when you are just going down the road, with the problem being keyed to wheel speed rather than motor rpm, in which case tires or any part of the drive train from the U-joint back could be the problem. Motor-originated vibrations are maximal when backing down from high speed (shaking rear view mirror, etc.) and these are the ones that might be transmitted by the exhaust clamp. I apologize if I'm telling you stuff you already know.

Steve

 

[Father Mike]

Steve S, thanks for the pictures of the mufflers. I know I have either number 1 or 4. I'll have to take some measurements to determine which one. I've been thinking over the past couple weeks of replacing the exhaust system as a whole. It's on my "to-do" list for the next couple of months especially if I exhaust all other options trying to stop or slow that leak. (Pun intended

 

[Pilotdave]

Steve - my "thanks" was sincere! No worries - I took your suggestion as I am sure you meant it.

In my car, this vibration occurs when I hit about 50 mph. I'm looking for possible causes to eliminate. This vibration is a low, rapid tone - almost as if I can hear the floor boards vibrating against the body.

Father Mike - my apology for yanking your thread in a slightly different direction. Good luck "exhausting" the options!!!

 

[pat in Santa Cruz]

some of the older style frame to tail pipe clamps hold the tail pipe so close to the frame that it touches it, causing quite a ruckus. With the correct clamp and correct bolt and nut, you tighten the nut just to the point you can cotter it. Many, very many, of the repop bolts are too short and require tightening very tight to get the cotter in. On a proper length bolt, the clamp will be just slightly loose on the muffler and clamped so the downward bent tab just touches the bottom part of the clamp that rests on the frame, but no tighter.