need help creating manual

1930artdeco

1930artdeco

Well-known member
Hi All,

Since I cannot find a manual for my analyzer I thought I would use the collective mind of the of the Ford Barn and create one. So here it goes, I have approximately six major test this machine can do on the electrical system of a car. Not sure if they are done on a running car or a bench yet.
But I thought I would go through each test and see if we can figure out how this thing works. I will post a picture of the gauge and the switch(s) and then test it out and report back the findings to make sure I have the instructions down correctly.
So here is the first test: Condensers. My car eats them so this test is very useful to me. I took three different condensers (two modern-used and new) and an original style (new) and hooked the black lead to the base and the red to the blade or screw. I switched from all three tests discharging in between and here are the results:

Modern-new:
1=Test no real movement; Discharge pegged and returned to 0
2=Capacity went to 16 on the scale or .25
3=Series Resistance no real movement

Modern-used
1=Same as new
2=Same as new
3=Same as new

Original Style-new
1=Same as new
2=Same as new
3=Same as new

O.K. here are my questions:
1) Did I hook up the condenser correctly?
2) What do each of the test indicate?
3) What is meant by the .1,.15,.2 etc. in test #2?
4) Are these readings consistent with a good condenser? If not what should ones readings be?


Thank you for your help in creating this manual.

Mike
 

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Here are a bunch of questions to consider. I am not sure what is inside so I am being very general in my questions.

Have you taken the back off and looked at what is inside?

It is very likely that there are things in there that need to be replaced. Any electrolytic capacitors or wax capacitors are suspect.
Frequently the electronics revolve around having a coil test in operation. The coil test will involve a motor and points set or a ******** from a the tube radio days. Vibrators need to contacts cleaned and should vibrate if they are working.

Coil condenser testers are fairly simple devices. If you do not understand electronics ask someone to help you as you can be dealing with some high voltages. I have repaired a few different types. I have peeled open vibrators and got them working, lubed motors and replaces wires with melted rubber (from age) insulation. All come up working with some simple fixes. Your unit might have tube electronics to test the condenser and might need some higher electronics knowledge and some must replace components.

Have you switched over to the modern burn out proof condenser on your car? Have you checked the voltage levels at the points during operation? Do you have a correct coil? Have you confirmed all the connections in your car a clean and your ammeter has tight contacts?
 
Hi Kevin,

I did take the back off years ago and replaced some caps with new ones. The tubes probably should be checked again just to be sure. There is an electric motor with 37 Buick points attached on the inside. I always wondered what that was for. I am electronic baby novice so my skills at fixing things are very limited.

I will tear into the guts again to clean things up now that she is out of the elements. But if I understand you correctly the motor with points must be running to check things? So is this machine a bench tester or on car tester?

Mike
 
Ron C,

Thanks for the lead. I did not know they were around anymore. I googled the name but they changed it enough so that nothing came up. I am calling today.

Mike
 
The coil test has two functions.

The coil spark test. The only way to get a coil to spark is to give it current and then take away the current. So you need some kind of on/off switch on the coil circuit.

The circuits may vary and since yours has tubes it may have a separate circuit to check the capacitor values. Hold on while I try to give you a picture in words.

The little box type testers have have either a ******** or a motor (most are vibrators) and they have a condenser in the circuit across the switch. This is just like you have on a car. The make and break action allows for a spark and you have an adjustable spark gap. You run the spark gap till the spark gets weak and jumpy. Then back off. You then turn to heat. Here the motor/******** is turned off and you leave the make break closed to allow current to go through the coil. This causes the coil to heat up, as this is when they start to break down. Once you let it warm up you switch back to making sparks (the fun part :) and see if the gap needs to be closed down a lot. If you have to close the gap a lot then the coil is weak or bad.
On these small boxes you test the condenser by putting it across the test points and if the spark gets weaker then you have a bad condenser.

Now the answer I do not know is what does your test box do?
I am going to make an assumption that your box is fancy. I think because it has tubes it really goes and figures out the capacitance and state of the condenser. I believe it puts an oscillating low voltage signal in of a certain frequency and then measures. Well more like make a precision bridge. In all likely hood it would need to be calibrated some.

Which brings me to some simple things you can do. Start by putting your finger on top of the tube and make a circle. Wiggle it around some to exercise all the pins in the socket. You may also need to use some contact cleaner and exercise any potentiometers. Unless you know how to check their resistance to make sure they seem to be functioning.

I would recommend that you contact your local amateur radio club and see if there is a local guy that can come help. The circuit should not be too hard to figure out and check its calibration.

You have a very nice and useful tool. You might make many friends of the local guys with old and new cars (does it do 12 volts?). I had the coil go in my 65 Mustang during a parade one year. Plugged it into my coil tester and it was bad.
 
Hi Kevin,

Thanks for the idea about the local radio club, hadn't thought of that. I think it does just 6V because of the 37 buick pts.

Mike
 
The points are just a switch and not voltage dependent at the 6/12 volt area.

The question is answered by looking at the panel to see if it has a 12v position.
 
I own an earlier version of the King tester and also have no manual.
A few years ago I contacted the current King company with no success.
I just emailed the owner of the the posted King tester and asked if he would copy his manual(s) manuals. I'll post a follow-up.
 
Might want to try Jeff Wilson at Gas From The Past. 816-540-3443.
He is a high end restorer for vintage automobila and is currently completing another early one of these, he has done several. He does the cosmetics but should have contacts for the guys who would do the mechanical. His work is often featured at Barrett-Jackson.
 
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