Need advice...flywheel removal

B

Bob GA

Junior Member
I'm in the middle of a clutch replacement on a 1930 Model A. What's the trick to stop the flywheel from turning while removing the 4 bolts?
 
impact wrench removing and installing bolts, be very careful when removing the fly wheel it weighs some where around #70
 
Impact wrench to get the bolts out. I use two long bolts with the heads cut off and a slot cut for a screwdriver to guide the flywheel out and back in again. Check the pilot bearing when it is out.
 
I think if I remember, Andrews suggested that you take out two bolts, insert a head bolt or manifold bolt (without nut) in the two holes where you took out the two bolts. Then take out the other two bolts. The reason is to keep 70# from smashing your foot!
 
Fred K-OR said:
I think if I remember, Andrews suggested that you take out two bolts, insert a head bolt or manifold bolt (without nut) in the two holes where you took out the two bolts. Then take out the other two bolts. The reason is to keep 70# from smashing your foot!
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Head studs make great line up shafts. Thread the fine end in the FW and slide the FW on.
 
I have a length of strap iron with holes drilled in it that I bolt onto the flywheel using two of the pressure plate mounting bolt holes. The strap iron locks against the frame and prevents the flywheel from turning for both loosening and tightening. Once the bolts are loose I remove them and insert long studs. Use a block of wood through the starter mounting hole to tap the flywheel loose and onto the studs.

The flywheel weighs 65 lbs so put a box or something under it when you muscle it down off the studs. Use the attached strap iron as a handle to move the flywheel around.

Tom Endy
 
Tom Endy said:
I have a length of strap iron with holes drilled in it that I bolt onto the flywheel using two of the pressure plate mounting bolt holes. The strap iron locks against the frame and prevents the flywheel from turning for both loosening and tightening. Once the bolts are loose I remove them and insert long studs. Use a block of wood through the starter mounting hole to tap the flywheel loose and onto the studs.

The flywheel weighs 65 lbs so put a box or something under it when you muscle it down off the studs. Use the attached strap iron as a handle to move the flywheel around.

Tom Endy
Click to expand...

Tom, sorry about being so dense, but would you have a picture of how you bolt the strap iron on your pressure plate holes? Or a picture of the strap iron? Also, how long, weight, etc is the strap iron. Thanks for anything you can do to get me less confussed.
 
LOL, i just got another smart *** P/M from our resident Sancho Fred, not Fred K-OR, and as usually nothing of any importance to say
 
You can hold the FW by using a large screw driver jammed from back of ring gear to inside of FW hsg & not have to remove starter.,or get a piece of flat iron about 1-1/2,"x2' & either drill 2 holes for PP bolts on opposite sides of FW,or just have flat iron under LH bolt & over RH bolt & other end of bar resting on LH frame rail.
 
The strap iron is a nominal 17" long, 1&1/4" wide, 1/4" thick. The holes were drilled and spaced to pick up various holes in the fly wheel where the pressure plate mounts. Photos show both sides of the tool.

The tool is dual purpose as it is also used to align the clutch housing to the drive train. The pointer sticking out can be adjusted. You position it at the 12 O'clock position of the clutch housing and adjust it to .010 clearance. Then you rotate it to the 90 and 270 positions and check the clearance. All three positions should be within .006. Shim the housing accordingly. This is another subject though.

The 1.123 marked on the tool is the dimension that should be retained when the flywheel clutch surface is machined. It is the factory dimension between the clutch surface and the platform where the pressure plate mounts.

Tom Endy
 

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FWIW, I think I read that a mod A FW is 63 #. I lightened mine. It's my first one so I was cautious and only took it down to 57# which probably won't have a great effect. It can still do a lot of damage if it hits your leg or arm! Why are you taking it off? Are you going to lighten it or replace it?
Terry
 
A hard quick jerk with a long pull handle is all that I have ever needed to remove flywheel bolts. Its the quick move that does it, once the bolt breaks loose, it will back right out. A slow pull will just turn the flywheel. If you don't have the strength, an impact wrench will be quicker and easier. Be careful not to jerk it off the stands.
 
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